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Artisanal Clothing and accessories discussion (MA+, CCP, Layer-0, Paul Harnden, Taichi Murakami, Boris Bidjan Saberi, etc...) - Page 38

post #556 of 2149
Albert is a great guy, bought my first RO from him and he was super professional.
post #557 of 2149
Quote:
Originally Posted by fistinyoface View Post

@wormwood, whatever the true value, I was just lamenting my inability to buy them. More pics are always appreciated. This thread needs a bit of a shot in the arm!

I haven't seen Chinorlz of SZ's work, Collateral Concepts, mentioned here. He's recently posted a new season and a suiting project. Definitely worth checking out. That boro jacket is simply brilliant.


http://stylezeitgeist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20519

http://stylezeitgeist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14390&page=3

Agreed - dudes like you , @uzairh or @eckblk seem to have a vast collection of pretty dope stuff, would be nice for us to see it worn. :nest:

 

On CC, yes that Collateral Concepts series is quite amazing.

 

Now sharing my experience reg. leather jackets : i cant buy leathers without trying on first. Thats one thing ive found out in Japan, having the opportunity to try out so much stuff in person : i havent been able to find Incarnation, MA+ or Owens leathers that didnt fit me horribly. How unfair. I ve had more luck with Julius, TVA and CCP, but still, it made me think, good thing i never splurged on leather jackets online... Yet every other garment i m usually able to predict the fit based on measurements alone... 

post #558 of 2149
Quote:
Originally Posted by spacepope View Post
 

 

Chinorlz is easily the best poster still on SZ. It's great to see him develop over the past years and refine his patterns and materials towards something genuinely unique. Easily the most ~~~artisanal~~~ homie posted here, whatever that means. The reindeer leather jacket reminds me of some of Altieri's Fattomano stuff, but you could never mistake it for a copy. Same with the blazers––you can tell the guy has checked out Harnden and LUC and others, but he keeps it his own. He knows his influences and knows to keep them at arms reach. Contrast: I saw some A1923 clothing recently and initially mistook it for MA+, then LUC, then CCP, then finally... I don't really care if expensive ~~~artisanal~~~ brands copy one another, but it's nice to see someone paying respects to the tradition while still doing something new.

 

And if anyone is interested in a piece of CC history, I have a version of the jut neck leather in a very nice Guidi calf that I'm looking to get rid of.

What size?

post #559 of 2149
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishtacologin View Post
 

What size?

 

48

post #560 of 2149
Quote:
Originally Posted by fistinyoface View Post

@wormwood, whatever the true value, I was just lamenting my inability to buy them. More pics are always appreciated. This thread needs a bit of a shot in the arm!

I haven't seen Chinorlz of SZ's work, Collateral Concepts, mentioned here. He's recently posted a new season and a suiting project. Definitely worth checking out. That boro jacket is simply brilliant.


http://stylezeitgeist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20519

http://stylezeitgeist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14390&page=3

 

second link appears to be from late 2014?

post #561 of 2149
Quote:
Originally Posted by fistinyoface View Post

@wormwood, whatever the true value, I was just lamenting my inability to buy them. More pics are always appreciated. This thread needs a bit of a shot in the arm!

 


awaiting they here in PT. should be within a week. 

and yes, damn, that was hard) damn you and everyone who tried to outbid me)

post #562 of 2149

@Auximenes Yeah, man. I think between some of the potentially more frequent buyers here, my choices deviate from the Harnden, Layer-0, and CCP biz. Photos are always mine enemy. I'll try harder soon.

 

 
edit: nvm

Edited by fistinyoface - 2/9/16 at 6:46am
post #563 of 2149
Seconding (thirding? fourthing?) the Collateral Concepts suiting project.

I asked Albert whether he'd be willing to design some pants to go along with a to-measure blazer for my wedding last year, and he very kindly obliged. Beyond giving him my measurements, and choosing fabrics, I let him have free rein, and what I received had lots of great details - back pockets hidden in the seams, no seams on the outer legs, really great lining and solid construction.

Echoing spacepope's sentiment, he's taken on board what a lot of the niche is designing and then creating things that are 100% his own.

Cool to see him taking it further.

Not to mention, he's a super nice dude.
post #564 of 2149

Nicest dude across any forum I've dealt with.

 

Any details and pics of the suit you could share? I've just enquired about options on one from him too.

post #565 of 2149
i love the shape of Chinorlz's suits, but I really can't get behind the curved pockets.... why am i so particular about pockets?!?!?!!
post #566 of 2149
Quote:
Originally Posted by nahneun View Post

i love the shape of Chinorlz's suits, but I really can't get behind the curved pockets.... why am i so particular about pockets?!?!?!!

They're definitely an acquired detail, but the flipside is that they're really deep and practical when wearing the jackets more casually than in a formal setting. And throwing your hands in them with the collar up against the wind (at least when you live in a rain swept part of the world) makes them make a hell of a lot of sense.
post #567 of 2149
Selling my almost-new, special order slash neck LUC coat, size large. It's awesome, just not what I think I need right now.

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/291681161859

Hmu for a better price.

post #568 of 2149
Quote:
Originally Posted by fps View Post

Seconding (thirding? fourthing?) the Collateral Concepts suiting project.

I asked Albert whether he'd be willing to design some pants to go along with a to-measure blazer for my wedding last year, and he very kindly obliged. Beyond giving him my measurements, and choosing fabrics, I let him have free rein, and what I received had lots of great details - back pockets hidden in the seams, no seams on the outer legs, really great lining and solid construction.

Echoing spacepope's sentiment, he's taken on board what a lot of the niche is designing and then creating things that are 100% his own.

Cool to see him taking it further.

Not to mention, he's a super nice dude.

 

Is he also a *practicing* medical doctor? Is that right?

post #569 of 2149
Hi everyone! Eck and others have been kind enough to point me towards the recent discussions on here. First, many many thanks to FPS, Eck and everyone else that has supported my endeavor over the years. What had started off as a small project 10 years ago has become something that I never would have imagined it to be, and I have everyone to thank for that!

If cross-posting/linking between forums is not encouraged, I'm happy to post the recent collection here along with the recent developments of suiting. I definitely understand that there may be parts of the design such as the curved front pockets that may not sit well with some... I can certainly do flap pockets/welted pockets but the curving seam that not only shapes the front sides of the jacket (like a 3-paneled standard suit jacket design does) but forms a continuous line that generates the functional front pocket as well. The seam matches the inner sleeve seam as well for continuity and flow of the lines of the piece.

As others have mentioned, my background is indeed medicine (general surgery to be specific) while over the last few years my interests have led me more down medtech innovation and medical device design full time. Collateral will continue as it is a major creative outlet for me and of course has the added benefit of letting me add something to my own closet smile.gif

Carpe Diem and Label Under Construction along with the designers behind these and similar lines have been a huge inspiration for me both in their design methods and the materials R&D. I have definitely embraced their clear passion for creating seemingly simple garments that have had a lot of thought put into them either through pattern development, materials development/processing, and/or huge man-hours. Since every piece of Collateral Concepts is made from beginning to end by myself solo, I have the luxury of total control over the process as well as total freedom. I recognize that this is not something that many others in the design world have (high volume production is pretty much an impossibility for me due to several limitations as well as no interest in pursing that direction) and so it allows me to source rare and unusual materials or use materials/techniques that otherwise would be completely cost or labor impermissive. I get the chance to construct pieces that otherwise could not exist or be created and I'm so happy that I get the chance to share that with people such as yourselves!

This weekend I should have some time with natural lighting to provide some images of the suits, jackets and other pieces being worn so that silhouette, structure and cut can be better understood versus the pieces being on a hanger!
post #570 of 2149
welcome @Chinorlz
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