or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › Artisanal Clothing and accessories discussion (MA+, CCP, Layer-0, Paul Harnden, Taichi Murakami, Boris Bidjan Saberi, etc...)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Artisanal Clothing and accessories discussion (MA+, CCP, Layer-0, Paul Harnden, Taichi Murakami, Boris Bidjan Saberi, etc...) - Page 75

post #1111 of 2146
Re PH in lighter fabrics/colors, it's simply a matter of being able to pull it off, like so:

post #1112 of 2146
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicelynice View Post

And here's the blazer on me, for y'all curious. Sorry for the weird pose hah

one your best looks man!!!

Ignore them... Well yeah.
post #1113 of 2146
Quote:
Originally Posted by uzairh View Post

Re PH in lighter fabrics/colors, it's simply a matter of being able to pull it off, like so:


Well sure . . . that wins . . . damn.
post #1114 of 2146
.
post #1115 of 2146
For anyone who's been interested in buying karu/nama stuff, I have a slightly more sobering and honest review about his products. I've held back because I don't really want to shit on a small business, but it's quite ridiculous how unprofessionally he handles his business.

First and foremost, I want to clarify that this is an individual anecdote and YMMV, and I sincerely wish for the best should you choose to deal with him. This is the tale of my first pair, the second pair he sent to fix issues with the first pair, and his supposed recompensation for all the issues with both. Also I still didn't get my bonus for paying the full price up front foo.gif.

I ordered my first of nama pants during its initial run. Around this time last year, in fact. The first pair of pants he sent me, which are actually the pants in his current sales thread, are actually not made properly. While difficult to see in his photos, the pants are actually extremely poorly designed and cut which would be immediately evident upon closer inspection. For reference, I ordered the following specs: linen-ramie blend with burnt horn button closure fly, 4 pockets (2 front 2 back), and belt loops. My initial sizing was: 30.5"/77.5cm waist and 35.5"/90cm to fit a standard EU46/30. In hindsight, I should have been more generous with my measurements given the MTO nature instead of going for a perfect fit.

There were frankly too many issues for a pair of pants costing $570. First and foremost, the fly was incredibly poorly designed. The fly cover was folded backwards to create two layers and slits were made for the button holes without any reinforcement on the slits whatsoever. The slits were also too small to be of any real use because they were created to be EXACTLY as large as the buttons. I can't speak of how it fits because the pants ended up being too small for me, but if his corrected pair was any indicator, it probably didn't work out so well (more on both points later). The back pockets were simply slits on the back panel of the pant legs themselves without even any reinforcement to prevent the seams from ripping. Stitches were made on the back panel in the shape of a pocket and then a slit was made to create an opening to the pocket bag. While you can argue that this is an aesthetic choice, I think pockets should always be functional and anything designed like that is essentially useless because of fear of damage (again, no reinforcement and frankly, the slit was even too small to comfortably fit my hand into). The pockets were also as small as women's pockets, so it kind of killed any possibility of using the front pockets as well. The burnt horn buttons were actually overburnt to the point that they were charred bits that flaked and were useless because of how fragile they were; they felt like they would crumble upon further use. Next, my pants measured smaller than what I asked for. They were made to fit a 44 and not a 46. The dimensions of the top block were all smaller than I asked for other than from the knee down. After consulting with wormwood about these issues, he asked me to send measurements of the pants to ensure that he did not send me someone else's pair by accident. He graciously offered to send me a new pair, which was great, and asked me what issues I had with the pants so he could correct them in my new pair and that he would compensate me for return shipping (he didn't and still hasn't). Here is where my hindsight came into play and I asked for a larger top block in general:
Quote:
Originally Posted by nahneun 
The waist measurement is definitely too small. Right now, if I button up the pants and extend them as much as possible, I get around 14.75 inches or 75cm flat. At rest, they are closer to 14.5 inches, or about 73.7 cm. At minimum, I need my pant waist to measure 15.25 inches flat, or 77.5 cm (this is the waist measurement on the pair of Devoa pants that fit me best in the waist). Maybe we should err a bit safer and go with 15.5 inches-15.75 inches flat (78.75 cm-80 cm cm), as I can always get it tailored down if need be, but there seems to be no extra fabric to let out the waist.

He received my pants and he told me that he got a measurement of 38cm laid flat and showed me the pictures, but his pictures showed both the fly button and waist button visible (which kind of makes the measurement pointless since everything is unbuttoned so it's not taking into account the loss of an 0.5 inches to an inch when buttoned). I raised my brows at this because it seemed a bit odd that it was measured this way, but didn't really take too much and just chalked it up to potential measuring error.

Turnaround on my second pair was quick, and I was happy with the fit, but the pants were still not without flaw. The back pockets were still similarly flawed, and the front pockets, while larger, were still a bit smaller than personal preference, but at least they were functional now. The buttons were lightly scorched instead and were all in all a vast improvement. The fly panel was corrected and while the button holes were still not reinforced, I could slip buttons into them comfortably. At least I could wear them! This is how they look worn:



Initially, I didn't really want to make a big deal of this because I already got a second pair from sizing error, and I discussed the matter privately with a few other members who were interested in nama pants. If I had to guess, the front panel was probably not designed properly, but I'm clearly no expert on this matter. In most pants, if you take the waist band, button it up, and pull it out all the way, you usually get a dip at the front (unaligned waist vs aligned waist). These pants are the opposite; the front is proportionally longer than the back, if that makes any sense. Anyway, I wrote it off and was just willing to swallow the loss because the pants were basically not fit for normal wear since they looked like......the above. It wasn't until spacepope got his pair that I realized that my pairs were both the alpha test runs, and I was indignant, and I believe rightfully so. It is absolutely unacceptable to pay $570 (+50 for return shipping) for a test run.

I sent him the picture of the pants when worn and he told me it wasn't a design flaw, but that it was a cossack fly from the 19th century. Now, I may not be an expert in history or on cossack pants, but even a rudimentary google search will show that a cossack fly does not exist. I even tried other variations like cossack style fly and clearly, I ended up empty handed. I was pretty annoyed that he was making excuses and trying to write off what is clearly a design flaw. Now here, he offered to make me a new pair of pants in the same selvedge style as spacepope's pair free of charge. While I would rather just have my current pair fixed, I was happy to have some sort of resolution than none at all. This was back in October and I took it in good faith. In February 2016, I asked if he was still holding true to his offer, and he told me that he was having production issues, but that he had another pair MADE FOR SOMEONE ELSE in the US that he was going to instead have shipped over to me because our measurements are similar. Frankly, that's just ridiculous on all counts, especially for the aforementioned customer, and I told him that I would wait for a proper pair. Now if you follow this thread, someone else had similar issues with his pants and he received his selvedge pant replacement. Perhaps the same would have happened for me, but I'm content with accepting that I got ToJed at this point. I'm more fed up with the lack of professionalism in all this and am going to just chalk everything up as a loss. Hope others have a better experience than I do.

edit: fixing some typos here and there
Edited by nahneun - 6/12/16 at 7:21am
post #1116 of 2146

Out of curiosity (and not to slag on anyone), what was the appeal of Nama? I noticed a bunch of people here bought pairs six months to a year ago, but I never quite got it... pricing seemed to be similar to established labels where you more or less know what you're getting. Was it the fabrics and mtm aspect?

 

Also, that women's Harnden fit posted earlier has to be one of the few all-Harnden fits I actually like. Very cool.

post #1117 of 2146

-


Edited by arnoldpettibone - 6/14/16 at 8:39am
post #1118 of 2146

well thank you all. I'd like to hear positive comments too, but it's not really necessary. 

as I keep saying - I'm totally admit the problem with a fly. it will be maintained extremely easy in your case, Rob. also, you will receive your new pair and you'll love it, just sure.

what for you, Dave, you will receive two pairs. one lined and one unlined to replace the current, too low-boxed for you. and you will love both of them too. 

 

@antti   apologies for summoning you right into, but please really drop you two cents. you've awaiting your pair since August as I remember and I really want to hear how you're finding em after few weeks of using




also, fuck with it. I've warned everyone in a first place that design will be pretty simple and that I'm not a professional of any grade - aside of my salary specialization, and never pretended to be. 

post #1119 of 2146
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormwood View Post

well thank you all. I'd like to hear positive comments too, but it's not really necessary. 


as I keep saying - I'm totally admit the problem with a fly. it will be maintained extremely easy in your case, Rob. also, you will receive your new pair and you'll love it, just sure.


what for you, Dave, you will receive two pairs. one lined and one unlined to replace the current, too low-boxed for you. and you will love both of them too. 

@antti
   apologies for summoning you right into, but please really drop you two cents. you've awaiting your pair since August as I remember and I really want to hear how you're finding em after few weeks of using





also, fuck with it. I've warned everyone in a first place that design will be pretty simple and that I'm not a professional of any grade - aside of my salary specialization, and never pretended to be. 

This isn't an issue of simple design. The pocket design can be considered simple design. These are flaws in pattern making and a lack of accountability and professionalism on your part. You can claim you're being honest all you want. Drew Keith did the same thing and we all know how that panned out. Trust is hard to keep once you break it once. Once you've made one excuse too many, all your excuses fall on deaf ears. If you have no experience with tailoring, why are you selling it off as if you can recreate carpe level tailoring and price yourself accordingly?
post #1120 of 2146
Quote:
Originally Posted by nahneun View Post

This isn't an issue of simple design. The pocket design can be considered simple design. These are flaws in pattern making and a lack of accountability and professionalism on your part. You can claim you're being honest all you want. Drew Keith did the same thing and we all know how that panned out. Trust is hard to keep once you break it once. Once you've made one excuse too many, all your excuses fall on deaf ears. If you have no experience with tailoring, why are you selling it off as if you can recreate carpe level tailoring and price yourself accordingly?

I'd gladly discuss these points with you off the forum. You will receive new pair and will judge it as you want. I never told anyone that I could recreate Altieri's level. It's a pretty strange as I always told that I'm doing things with my two hands.
post #1121 of 2146
All I hear are excuses. At this point, I really just want to know when you will just be honest and stop beating around the bush. Should I be questioning whether I actually received ramie-linen fabric too? Because honestly, the fabric doesn't feel like any of the ramie or linen I've handled. It doesn't even look the same as your product samples. I wouldn't even be surprised if they were a cotton-linen blend or even just cotton.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormwood View Post

4) stiff thin linen/ramie canvas from Manzhouli region from 1952. honeslty though that is originally China military reserve that was grabbed by Soviet army during the first conflict.



edit:

I also forgot to mention you told me on April 4th, 2016 that my replacement pair was being sent to LA along with two others to your "LA contact" for distribution. How many times did I have to press you before you confessed that you were lying? Seriously, I can't trust anything you say even with a grain of salt.
Edited by nahneun - 6/12/16 at 9:38pm
post #1122 of 2146
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


IC on this small MA+ accordion in black vachetta. Need to raise some GBS funds shog[1].gif

It's brand new. Just never gonna replace my Porter tanker, I guess. Strap is non adjustable.


HMU if interested.

Includes bag and tag.
Edited by AlexanderTG - 6/13/16 at 12:08pm
post #1123 of 2146

Well I also ordered a pair of pants from @wormwood last year. It did take quite a while due to production issues apparently, which he made up for by offering to make two pairs for the price of one. I received the first pair a month ago and I'm personally very happy with them.

 

I like the fabric, the construction is solid and they fit well. For the record I provided exact measurements of what I wanted. I can understand that the simple and unfinished nature of the pants might make them seem frail, (in that aspect) akin to some M.A+ pieces I've handled. However, having worn these for a few weeks now, I don't see them exactly falling apart any time soon.

 

I have no idea what's going on with the fly above as mine looks way different. Out of personal preference I did put in a couple of hidden stitches to make it stay flat more consistently, but you know, they were perfectly wearable even without that.

 

So yeah I can't speak for anyone else, but I'm happy with what I received.

 

As for the appeal, for me personally it's knowing who made them and what they're made of. The story, you know, as cliché as it sounds. And the MTM aspect is pretty great too.

post #1124 of 2146
@antt1, i basically got a flawed prototype pair that he tried to pass off as an intentional design by calling it a 19th century cossack fly. in fact, even without the sizing error on the first pair, it was similarly flawed.
post #1125 of 2146
Yep, and I got a similar pair as Nahneun at around the same time. The fly wasn't as bad but still pretty poor design. Eugene (Wormwood) agreed to make me a new pair in selvedge denim which I reviewed a while back. I like them and am more or less happy with them. But I was asked to send my old pair back for the fly to be fixed and a new treatment to be applied. He comped my $22 shipping which was nice. I have a tracking number that says they were shipped back on May 4 but I've not seen them nor does the USPS recognize the tracking number.

I'm in a weird spot because I did finally get a pair of wearable pants and my old ones are supposedly en route . . . but I gotta say I'm looking forward to when this fiasco is over and I sincerely hope the others involved have their issues resolved.

Life is too short to complain too much (at least for me) but if you're gonna take people's $500-$600 for pants you better be ready to give them a good product the first time around . . . and get your shipping game on. First class just don't cut it in this case and their second rate handling of foreign shipments certainly doesn't serve to bolster Wormwood's cred.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Streetwear and Denim
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › Artisanal Clothing and accessories discussion (MA+, CCP, Layer-0, Paul Harnden, Taichi Murakami, Boris Bidjan Saberi, etc...)