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***....Falcon Garments - Official Affiliate Thread....*** MTM/MTO Leather Jackets - Page 74

post #1096 of 2068
Chesterfield please
post #1097 of 2068
Quote:
Originally Posted by cure View Post

i don't post much on styleforum, but i wanted to share some varsity pics. i own a toj1, suede harrington, and bomber - have bought and sold a few other toj leathers and whatnot. I really enjoy the quality of this varsity. leather is still buttery soft, the fit is great. i got a 49 with an inch off. the navy is really dark and looks black unless under sunlight.

]

Falcon tag looks sick!
post #1098 of 2068
Would really like to see helmet bag making the line up.
post #1099 of 2068
+1 on the helmet bag
post #1100 of 2068
more accurate color representations of the oxblood calf.


post #1101 of 2068
Quote:
Originally Posted by clark kent View Post

more accurate color representations of the oxblood calf.




Fucking great - mind getting a pic in the sun? I very much want a red belted dr, but think Its pretty aggressive and ill never wear it. This might fit the bill
Edited by jl992 - 12/5/15 at 9:36pm
post #1102 of 2068

Has anyone ordered a jacket with calf suede or gunmetal hardware? Would love to see some images if possible!

post #1103 of 2068
Sorry if these questions have been asked but
1. Any chance for a suiting wool ma 1?
2. How long is the waitlist currently?

Also can't believe I missed this... I've been checking in on dress demise on the toj thread
post #1104 of 2068

hi

 

 

more (Click to show)

 

 

 

post #1105 of 2068

Goddamn that varsity.

post #1106 of 2068
Quote:
Originally Posted by hmtwrk View Post
 

hi

 

 

more (Click to show)

 

 

 

:worship2: 

 

incredible! pretty much exactly the next thing I was going to order (inspired by saint laurent much? ;) ) and thanks for convincing me

post #1107 of 2068

Would there ever  be a "lapped seam" option for the sleeves? Would order in a heartbeat if there was, tbh. That was my favorite bit of detail on the 2013DR.


Edited by coldknife - 12/9/15 at 1:01am
post #1108 of 2068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Distorbiant View Post
 

 

The only change are the belt snaps, no?

 

Yeah, @rbnman covered this really well.

 

1) On the TOJ DR2013, the lapels are more generous, and the corners are cut sharper and more angularly. This is closer to Saint Laurent's aesthetic, and is my personal preference. On the FG DR3, it's the same as the DR2.

 

2) Probably the biggest deal to me is the way the shoulders are done in FG's reincarnation of the TOJ DR2013. The same seam stitching detail is reused from the DR1 and DR2, as opposed to the method that a lot of the more traditional looking perfectos utilize in their designs (such as BLK DNM or Saint Laurent). The way the stitching is done on the DR3 also affects how the epaulets are sewn on the shoulder and their overall look. Epaulets (from my observation) seem to be sewn in a way that they fold over somewhat, and then snap on, so they are not 100% flush with the shoulder. (See basically any military designed jacket or coat with epaulets).

 

3) Another huge detail to me. The back design. On the TOJ DR2013, has a cleaner back where it is a 3-panel design, with a large main panel and two smaller side panels, as well as the liver panel at the bottom. This really added to the overall sleekness and cleanness of the TOJ DR2013's design. On the FG DR3, the two-panel backs are recycled from the DR2, where there is one large seam that cuts straight down and divides the back.

 

4) The belt snaps, as you have mentioned. FG has stated they decided to do away with the snaps for a cleaner and "less cluttered" look.  My issue with this is that the belt snaps are critical to provide some balance between the front and back. On the DR3, you've got all this bling on the back, and hardly any on the back, making it very front heavy on the details (this was even more noticeable prior to FG's decision to allow rear facing zippers). I also just think it helps the belt pop out more, which is such a key feature to the overall design of this perfecto inspired jacket.

 

5) The liver panels by FG are hard to gauge for me because of the scarcity of photos, and in particular of the back, so it is difficult for me to comment on it.

 

 

I am disappointed because the TOJ DR2013 was such a strong and excellent design, and really emulates the Saint Laurent riders so effectively (I imagine this to be how many others feel). Like many others, I got screwed over by TOJ, and I have a TOJ DR2013 order in limbo (or more likely hell). Although I am deeply impressed by the quality and service FG has consistently offered, the design for FG's DR3 does feel... weaker.

 

It feels, in fact, that it is essentially the DR2 or DR1, but with epaulets and a belt slapped on. With these two added details optional and removable, what are we left with, really?

 

As others have already expressed before me, I personally want a FG perfecto that is exactly like the original TOJ DR2013.

post #1109 of 2068
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by barramundi View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Yeah, @rbnman
covered this really well.

1) On the TOJ DR2013, the lapels are more generous, and the corners are cut sharper and more angularly. This is closer to Saint Laurent's aesthetic, and is my personal preference. On the FG DR3, it's the same as the DR2.

2) Probably the biggest deal to me is the way the shoulders are done in FG's reincarnation of the TOJ DR2013. The same seam stitching detail is reused from the DR1 and DR2, as opposed to the method that a lot of the more traditional looking perfectos utilize in their designs (such as BLK DNM or Saint Laurent). The way the stitching is done on the DR3 also affects how the epaulets are sewn on the shoulder and their overall look. Epaulets (from my observation) seem to be sewn in a way that they fold over somewhat, and then snap on, so they are not 100% flush with the shoulder. (See basically any military designed jacket or coat with epaulets).

3) Another huge detail to me. The back design. On the TOJ DR2013, has a cleaner back where it is a 3-panel design, with a large main panel and two smaller side panels, as well as the liver panel at the bottom. This really added to the overall sleekness and cleanness of the TOJ DR2013's design. On the FG DR3, the two-panel backs are recycled from the DR2, where there is one large seam that cuts straight down and divides the back.

4) The belt snaps, as you have mentioned. FG has stated they decided to do away with the snaps for a cleaner and "less cluttered" look.  My issue with this is that the belt snaps are critical to provide some balance between the front and back. On the DR3, you've got all this bling on the back, and hardly any on the back, making it very front heavy on the details (this was even more noticeable prior to FG's decision to allow rear facing zippers). I also just think it helps the belt pop out more, which is such a key feature to the overall design of this perfecto inspired jacket.

5) The liver panels by FG are hard to gauge for me because of the scarcity of photos, and in particular of the back, so it is difficult for me to comment on it.


I am disappointed because the TOJ DR2013 was such a strong and excellent design, and really emulates the Saint Laurent riders so effectively (I imagine this to be how many others feel). Like many others, I got screwed over by TOJ, and I have a TOJ DR2013 order in limbo (or more likely hell). Although I am deeply impressed by the quality and service FG has consistently offered, the design for FG's DR3 does feel... weaker.

It feels, in fact, that it is essentially the DR2 or DR1, but with epaulets and a belt slapped on. With these two added details optional and removable, what are we left with, really?

As others have already expressed before me, I personally want a FG perfecto that is exactly like the original TOJ DR2013.


We're actually changing the back from a 2-piece with liver panel to a 4-piece with liver panel (like the TOJ DR). Something we've been discussing.

But for for every other detail change you want, why not just go ahead and save up for a Saint Laurent DR if that's what you want?
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldknife View Post

Would there ever  be a "lapped seam" option for the sleeves? Would order in a heartbeat if there was, tbh. That was my favorite bit of detail on the 2013DR.

Nope. We prefer the way we have it now. It's easier to get the epaulets to sit flush that way also.
post #1110 of 2068

That shade though :lol:

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