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Tux makers

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
Does anyone on the forum know who supplies the tuxedos to J. Press, and who supplies them to the Andover shop? The salesmen at both were both a little elusive when I asked. Also, does anyone have any experience with Martin Greenfield? I've heard only good things, and I know that he used to be the supplier for (the now defunct) Custom Shop and for Neiman Marcus's house brand as well as some of its MTM, but I have no direct experience.
post #2 of 18
Martin Greenfield makes for a LOT of different labels, both RTW and custom. I always thought his stuff was good quality but not stellar (think somewhere between Norman Hilton and Hickey Freeman,) until I saw a Jack Simpson custom suit that was made by Greenfield. Very very nice. So he can make different grades of suit, some of which are definitely top-tier. Where were the tuxes made??
post #3 of 18
LA Guy, Are you giving up Costume National and Paper Denim in exchange for some nice relaxed Ivy League sacks? Or are you looking for a tux for 'a friend'?
post #4 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Are you giving up Costume National and Paper Denim in exchange for some nice relaxed Ivy League sacks?
No, but I can hardly wear jeans and tees, or even a deconstructed suit (I'm sure grandma would not be thrilled with my Schonberger "formal" shirt) to my brother's wedding. My old tux no longer fits (I had a 30-31 waist at the time I bought it, and now am at a sad 33 waist). And it seemed like it might be fun to have a tux from a really traditional place like J Press - you know, none of this Italian super 120s two button fly front nonsense - and go for a tux that Kennedy might have worn back in the day - heavier English worsted wool, made in Upstate New York, deal. Who knows, maybe living in Cambridge is addling my brain. Of course, I am wearing a customized Prada shirt (I removed all the buttons and made them into snaps), Paper Denim "military"style jeans, a big buckle belt, and tan corduroy Reeboks I put bright orange laces in, so I don't think that I'm going all Massachusetts quite yet.
post #5 of 18
Quote:
And it seemed like it might be fun to have a tux from a really traditional place like J Press
Sounds like you're onto something. I'm slowly learning that it's nice to own a mixture of traditional and edgy - I find myself wavering from black-and-white minimalism to bursts of bright primary colors, and everything inbetween, over the course of a day, or even over half an hour. I'm sure if I lived in Cambridge, at least one day a week I'd be wearing patchwork waistcoats and ties with bumblebees on them. Personally, in terms of formalwear, I'm looking for something reminiscent of old movies from the thirties - double-breasted, perhaps, with a great big wide shawl collar or wide peak lapels. PS Tell your brother that people on the Internet said 'congratulations'... PPS Now that I've got you here, what do you think of the Converse/John Varvatos 'Targa' sneaker? I'm contemplating the green-and-white version, but I'd prefer something similar without such a huge designer premium tacked on. Any ideas?
post #6 of 18
Thread Starter 
As you know, I'm a huge Converse fan, but I've been a rather disappointed with the John Varvatos Converse line. The only one I've been even remotely excited about were the tan corduroy one stars last season. Even so, I'd say that none of the Varvatos Converse even remotely deserve their designer prices. I do like Targas, but I don't find them particularly distinctive. My suggestion is to get the normal Targas, which go for around $45, and come in a variety of colors. If you like a running shoe silhouette (and I do), my current obsession is with the Nike Laser Cortez, which have very intricate patterns on them, and look distinctive but are quite understated at the same time. Expensive and hard to come by though, and they'll mark you right away as a guy who'll pay $$ for sneakers.
post #7 of 18
Quote:
And it seemed like it might be fun to have a tux from a really traditional place like J Press - you know, none of this Italian super 120s two button fly front nonsense - and go for a tux that Kennedy might have worn back in the day - heavier English worsted wool, made in Upstate New York, deal.  
Oh, it might prove fun to wear that, and something mixed in that is totally incongruous. I am looking for something with a nipped in waist, double breasted, and with peak lapels. Needless to say very slim. Or perhaps something Oscar Wildish. I saw some Gaultier's that fit that. As we as vintage Comme des Garcons. A far cry from J.Press...
post #8 of 18
LAGuy, as you're in Cambridge (and therefore not that far away from Fun City), why not give Greenfield's factory in Brooklyn a call, and see what they can do as far as a MTM evening suit? Greenfield does a variety of MTM programs (or used to), and can probably create something for you for about the cost of RTW in Cambridge. Might be worth a shot, and Greenfield does quite decent work.
post #9 of 18
Quote:
If you like a running shoe silhouette (and I do), my current obsession is with the Nike Laser Cortez, which have very intricate patterns on them, and look distinctive but are quite understated at the same time.  Expensive and hard to come by though, and they'll mark you right away as a guy who'll pay $$ for sneakers.
Why are these selling for $150-$300 on ebay??? The styles are cool, but the ones I saw were made in Taiwan/Vietnam.
post #10 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Why are these selling for $150-$300 on ebay???  
They're very limited.  The first batches were in series of 200 or 250, and sold out immediately.  They retailed for between $250 (for the Cortez) to $500 (for the Air) and were super sought after - going for about $400-500 for the Cortez and upwards of $800 for the Airs. The second and third series (Nike saw they had a winner) were in batches of 1000 (Cortez) or 2500 (Dunks and Airs), and retail started at $100 for the Cortez (not actually that much for a sought after sneaker these days.) They still sell out nearly immediately (sneaker freaks camp out before a drop day) and go on Ebay for 20 to 30% their retail value. And yes, they are made in Vietnam and Taiwan, so Nike is making a mint. But trust me, sneakers made in Italy/France/U.S.A. are no better, unless you are talking about artisanal sneakers. And for style, a pair of Nike Laser Cortez beats a pair of $350 Prada Sports (ugly and boring) or Hogans (just boring) hands down.
post #11 of 18
Quote:
But trust me, sneakers made in Italy/France/U.S.A. are no better, unless you are talking about artisanal sneakers. And for style, a pair of Nike Laser Cortez beats a pair of $350 Prada Sports (ugly and boring) or Hogans (just boring) hands down.
De gustibus non disputandum est - thus I won't argue about what's ugly or boring. However, you can't seriously tell me that a pair of Nike Cortez are manufactured as well as a pair of Prada Sports. I'm not saying that the extra cost is entirely justified, but there's clearly a difference. Look at the materials used, the quality control, etc.
post #12 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
However, you can't seriously tell me that a pair of Nike Cortez are manufactured as well as a pair of Prada Sports.
Wow, we're getting into the Latin here and everything. No, a pair of Nike Cortez are not nearly durable as a pair of Prada Sports. But if it's a durable you want, get yourself a pair of proper performance based approach shoes, which in general won't cost you a third of what you pay for Prada Sports, and are a *lot* more durable to boot. Fashion sneakers are for schlepping about in. If you want a pair of cool designer sneakers that are also well built, then go for Mihara's Puma, or Yamamoto's Y-3's. I think that Prada Sports were definitely distinctive when they first came to market, with the molded sole and interesting footbed shape, but these days, they're like an investment banker who rides a hog on the weekends - a little tired, a little sad. Put it this way, Glenn O'Brien endorses them.
post #13 of 18
I agree, Prada Sports (and in particular, the America's Cup) are not as fresh as they once were - but they're durable and extremely comfortable, so I continue buying them. There's also the fact that I can get away with wearing them in the office on casual Friday - something I positively cannot do with Y-3s or Pumas of any designer variety. Do you know what I'm saying?
post #14 of 18
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I do understand that, and some of the more simple designs can look quite sharp with flat front pants. If you want some options, I bet that for casual Friday you could get away with Medium shoes "The Existentialist" sneaker (around $120, quite good quality, and in a similar vein to some Prada Sport models), or some shoes in the Puma's Dassler (old school leather) or Platinum (modern, very Prada Sport like) lines in the office. In the higher end bracket, I've seen some Tod's that are okay. Conversely, you can get a different job. There are plenty of profs here who wear New Balances every day. And I wear whatever I want.
post #15 of 18
That Existentalist is a good looking shoe - but, in Canada, it's only available in Toronto, and I'm a bit wary about the sizing. (Maybe I'll take a look for them next time I'm in Seattle.) I'm familiar with but not a fan of the Dassler. Puma Platinums are, for the most part, great looking shoes (check out the Sbrigati if you ever get a chance), but very hard to come by, let alone at a discount. I haven't foreclosed academia, but am at the moment very uncomfortable with the idea of devoting yet more years to my education when there's only one university suitable for what I wish to teach in the city in which I want to live. It would really suck to go do another degree and then be at the university's mercy, opportunity to wear New Balances notwithstanding. On a separate but related note, have you any idea from where I might procure a pair of all-grey leather NB 574s? I have a pair that I adore that I bought in Lucerne, but have never seen a pair in North America.
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