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Engineered Garments FW 15 - Page 65

post #961 of 1015
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManofKent View Post

I can't say I've noticed anymore odd thread ends on EG than any other brand, and never had any that affect the structural integrity of the jacket. I've had them on most Nigel Cabourn pieces, and just snipped them with nail scissors. EG's construction quality has always seemed pretty much in line with other brands at a similar price point with nice details such as the split ring buttons.

I've had the same from Nigel Cabourn clothing and other UK makers (but not the little Percival, who seem really excellent in this small batch made venture). Some real quality control with Italian clothiers - Barena & Borelli. Incredible stitching and finish, not a thread out of place.

The EG button detailings are very impressive as you've pointed out. 3 dimension profiled buttons, even with a holographic effect from an angle. Even shirt pockets, with careful placement of the checks, to run parallel with the rest of the shirt front in single needle stitching.
post #962 of 1015
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by habitant View Post

Every time you post I'm reminded of what a turd you are.

It's remarkable that you refer to me that way, for most think I'm a "Good Shit". I'm not sure if your trajectory to me/us of unwarranted insults is due to not providing you with the service and advice I believe we have given you, then we're sorry we failed you. I believe our last transaction ended when after we provided you with multiple measurements, answered numerous PM's, held product out of stock for days, that then you decided not to purchase those items because we wouldn't give you additional discounts after our second markdown and wouldn't provide free shipping to Canada. Sorry Bud, we have eat too! It's SAD that you have to make this beef under the veil of the internet but then again, your intentions are clear.
Edited by Drinkwaters - 2/5/16 at 5:05pm
post #963 of 1015
Quote:
Originally Posted by zalb916 View Post

I am wearing the AW15 tweed Bedford today. It's 85% wool and 15% nylon. I googled (because I'm bad at science), and the internet tells me that nylon is a polyamide. I own a number of real tweed jackets, and they are great for their purpose, which, for me, is with a tie for more dressy occasions. This plastic-blend Bedford is more casual, though. I flipped-up the collar and buttoned-up the top buttons to deal with the wind and cold today. The fabric is noticeably softer than my real tweed jackets and wasn't scratching my neck. I liked that. The blended fabric worked for the more casual nature of this jacket. The 100% wool works for other jackets, and I avoid blends for those. 

If you detest blends, avoid them. I don't think it's a sign of decreasing quality, though. EG fabrics sometimes may serve different purposes than fabrics from other makers.

Good to hear your feedback on the AW15 tweed Bedford. I've not seen or touched it live, and if the blend is smoother than 100% tweeds, that's an interesting outcome of compromising from pure tweed. 85% wool and 15% nylon feels very smooth; anything over 80% wool seems to feel pretty decent to me.

Where do polyamides fit into a "natural design philosophy" though? They release nitrous oxides, contribute to greenhouse gases and leave the environment worse off. Using old shuttle looms, single needle machines, small craft industry approaches without the plastic is forever syndrome, is a conscious (preferred) choice of clothes making for many of us. EG fitted into that preference for me when I first discovered them - most probably coincidental rather than on purpose. Deliberate environmental conscious designers like the Finisterre brand, deliberately use slow dye processes with natural blossom, in order to reduce the energy required to dye the colour into their clothes so that their clothes fit with the concerns for the environment. After all, plastic and high energy clothes production is what the masses are already doing and won't go away anytime soon. Polyamides in fabrics may not be a sign of decreasing quality from a fashion perspective. From ethical, environmental and traditional perspectives, the opposite is true. I see you also have a strong leaning for 100% wools for other jackets too and have found space for the Bedford Tweed. It looks great still.
post #964 of 1015
I'm starting to hope polyamide causes smallpox and that you own a lot of polyamide
post #965 of 1015
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post


I think that it would be a bit misleading to call Engineered Garments a "heritage" brand, insofar as many of their garments would not be necessarily be recognizable to the men who wore the inspiration garments.  It is a modern brand with a lot of experimentation, but with roots deep inside Americana.  And I think that that justaposition of modern and historical is what has kept Engineered Garments relevant while so many other brands have fallen by the wayside. or just risen and fallen.

That's a really good point LA Guy. EG isn't a heritage brand. They are marketed as based on the tradition of heritage garments though, which is not the same so I think your distinction is really helpful.

I thought EG reflected a very interesting synthesis between a kind of traditional American working class (like the military theme USN pattern cuts) detailed with modernity. Okay, so they may not own or source their own fabrics from Loro Piana, or use heritage wools from geographical estates and sheep like Nigel Cabourn (however he gets accused of over-borrowing traditional clothes, never really inventing anything original!). They do use 100% cotton ripstop fabrics, just like Orslow.
post #966 of 1015
Quote:
Originally Posted by thekunk07 View Post

I'm starting to hope polyamide causes smallpox and that you own a lot of polyamide

You mean.... you've never had small pox?

Oh well. Maybe when you make it past puberty.
post #967 of 1015
well I'm 40, so....
post #968 of 1015
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mortenmouton View Post

That's a really good point LA Guy. EG isn't a heritage brand. They are marketed as based on the tradition of heritage garments though, which is not the same so I think your distinction is really helpful.

I thought EG reflected a very interesting synthesis between a kind of traditional American working class (like the military theme USN pattern cuts) detailed with modernity. Okay, so they may not own or source their own fabrics from Loro Piana, or use heritage wools from geographical estates and sheep like Nigel Cabourn (however he gets accused of over-borrowing traditional clothes, never really inventing anything original!). They do use 100% cotton ripstop fabrics, just like Orslow.

EG is a lot broader than just Americana these days - FW14 had several British inspired pieces, and SS15 was a very colonial look in many ways. I'm not sure how I'd describe the influences behind FW15. Whilst I still like the odd piece Nigel Cabourn makes, the brand has moved a long way down the collabs to make money route - cheap jackets for Sportsdirect (almost 100% synthetic too wink.gif .
post #969 of 1015
Love EG but IMO their wool and wool blends are not their strong suit. Never really found any of them comfortable to the touch, but I get some people won't mind, especially if you wear a lot of wool (its too hot here for that anyways).
post #970 of 1015
the baker BDUs require long johns or they are a hair suit essentially. the tweeds and herringbones i find very comfortable. also, i'll but that xl blazer from you t
post #971 of 1015
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjonesd2 View Post

Love EG but IMO their wool and wool blends are not their strong suit. Never really found any of them comfortable to the touch, but I get some people won't mind, especially if you wear a lot of wool (its too hot here for that anyways).

Really? I have their navy cruiser parka in 20oz melton wool, and I think it's amazing. It keeps me warm and is my most comfortable jacket.

post #972 of 1015
melton coat is comfy too
post #973 of 1015
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManofKent View Post

EG is a lot broader than just Americana these days - FW14 had several British inspired pieces, and SS15 was a very colonial look in many ways. I'm not sure how I'd describe the influences behind FW15. Whilst I still like the odd piece Nigel Cabourn makes, the brand has moved a long way down the collabs to make money route - cheap jackets for Sportsdirect (almost 100% synthetic too wink.gif .

As a whole, I find EG far more wearer friendly than Nigel Cabourn. I liked EGs FW15 more than FW14 for the most part, except for his knitted woolly communist inspired pants down collection with vertical stripes. I have far less Cabourn clothing, but those items are really exceptional. EG seem more consistent as a collection at a better price point generally. Thankfully Cabourn labels his trash collections/collaborations by the name of Ghastly Ashley Spudsdirect or plastic performance Karrimor who we can just ignore that whole shelf and save disappointment smile.gif

Still doesn't take away from those incredible masterpieces that Cabourn comes up with, from season to season. Will be interesting to see how AW16 for both shape up. Spring/summer generally isn't my thing in the northern hemisphere.

Besides when it shines, we prefer wearing no clothes. satisfied.gif
post #974 of 1015
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjonesd2 View Post

Love EG but IMO their wool and wool blends are not their strong suit. Never really found any of them comfortable to the touch, but I get some people won't mind, especially if you wear a lot of wool (its too hot here for that anyways).

It varies. The FW14 brown homespun is lovely and soft whilst the FW14 Olive homespun has quite a hard rough handle.
post #975 of 1015
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mortenmouton View Post


You mean.... you've never had small pox?

Oh well. Maybe when you make it past puberty.

Smallpox ≠ chickenpox.

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