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Subcontractors - Page 2

post #16 of 26
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post #17 of 26
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Part of the reason retailers are so secretive, I suppose, is that they want to protect their "house" brand, and admitting that a product is in fact not truly made in-house somehow diminishes the house brand and pumps up the subcontractor.  Also, in some cases it is possible -- once one knows who the subcontracters are -- to go straight to the source and get a comparable or identical product for a much lower price.  You can understand that retailers have no wish to encourage this practice.
Ummm... not really. Retailers won't reveal sources because they have faith in their own product and brand image. When Gucci sells you a suit, they want you to be excited about the Gucci name, and have you feel that Gucci in general sells a high quality product, they don't need another name to back up their product. As for getting an identical product, with shoes that is true (the numerous EG examples prove this), but with suits, not at all.
post #18 of 26
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This is an excellent point.  In a great many cases, the finished product is not at all what the subcontractor would have made on its own.  A lot of the big retailers and fashion houses pay designers to come up with new ideas, details, silhouettes, etc.  These ideas are then put into practice by the subcontractor.  Therefore (e.g.) a RL Black Label suit made by Corneliani will look (and be) a lot different than a suit with the Corneliani label. A big part of the reason why "subcontracted" suits often cost more is because someone (i.e., the consumer) has to pay the designers and the marketers, etc.
Exactly. In most cases the markup from contractor to label is warrented based soley on design purposes. Think of how the regular Corneliani suits are somewhat bland. I agree that the marketing costs are ridiculous *coughARMANIcough*.
post #19 of 26
Chester Barrie is now Cheshire Clothing.
post #20 of 26
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(A Harris @ 01 Oct. 2004, 12:34) Chester Barrie for: Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Huntsman, Turnbull & Asser, and a couple of new lines at Carrol & Company and Saks, can't remember the names at the moment.
I heard the Chester Barrie name was back from the dead.  Do you know who owns/operates the reincarnation?
Manton: I hope I can have the honor of answering a question someone as knowledgeable as you has posed... If my memory serves me correctly, Cheshire Barrie is now owned by a company called Cheshire Clothing, which bought the Chester Barrie factory and re-employed its workforce. Since the death and rebirth, Chester Barrie has a shop on Savile Row and is once again making suits for Turnbull and Asser and Saks. I believe suits are sold under the Chester Barrie label rather than the Cheshire Clothing label. I do not know but assume that they are also once again making the RTW suits for Huntsman, which are probably the best RTW suits made in Britain (or at least made to the highest specifications). They have also introduced a new line of suits called "Chester" about which I do not know much. From the ads it looks like it is aimed at younger customers. Let us hope it conserves the quality of the original.
post #21 of 26
One thing to add about Cheshire Clothing - the men who now own the company are the same guys who managed the old one. So it's really the same exact company, the only difference is it is no longer owned by a giant conglomerate (thank goodness.)
post #22 of 26
[quote]If my memory serves me correctly, Cheshire Barrie is now owned by a company called Cheshire Clothing, which bought the Chester Barrie factory and re-employed its workforce.... I believe suits are sold under the Chester Barrie label rather than the Cheshire Clothing label....They have also introduced a new line of suits called "Chester" about which I do not know much. From the ads it looks like it is aimed at younger customers....   What's Hield?
post #23 of 26
Hield is a British woolen mill which now also has a clothing line sold at Saks.
post #24 of 26
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Hield is a British woolen mill which now also has a clothing line sold at Saks.
Ah so desu ka. My memory did not serve me completely correctly. Hield is affiliated with Cheshire Clothing, I forget exactly how. It is or was a fabric house and now offers some tailored clothing (not necessarily made by Chester Barrie). Hield is also sold at some Saks 5th Avenues. Frankly, it's not like the world needed another British shirtmaking line.
post #25 of 26
Hield's primary business is in weaving fine suit fabrics. Hield is not a fabric merchant like Dormeuil, Scabal, H. Lesser, John G. Hardy or Harrisons of Edinburgh. Scabal owns the British weaver Bower & Roebuck, and John G. Hardy is part of the same group as the weaver Huddersfield Fine Worsteds. Hield, along with Moxon, is under Gamma Beta Holdings, which is controlled by the Chamsi-Pasha family. Only fairly recently did Hield enter the finished clothing business.
post #26 of 26
Ah, Hield, that's the name I couldn't remember. Saw the suits at Saks, and they are indeed from Cheshire Clothing. Also, Cheshire is sold under the Connaught label at Carrol & Company.
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