Subcontractors

I am trying to put together a list of suitmakers whose suits are re-labled for more well-known tailors (i.e. Saint Andrews for RLPL and Belvest for Hermes). I know there has been discussion on this from time to time, but I want to put together a definitive list. If you can think of any, just throw them out there.

Corneliani for Ralph Lauren Black Label
Kiton, Brioni, D'Avenza for Bijan

Well, off the top of my head:

Isaia for: Paul Stuart, Brooks Brothers, Bijan, Gieves and Hawkes, Bruno Piatelli at Barney's, Arnys

D'Avenza for Bijan

Attolini for Luciano Barbera

Brioni for Bijan and Mariano Rubinacci

St Andrew's for: Luciano Barbera, Bergdorf Goodman Private Label, Gianfranco Ferre, Stefano Ricci, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Louis Boston Private Label, Sulka, Paul Stuart, Harrison James Private Label, Wilkes Bashford Private Label. Also, Dario Zafagni is a St. Andrew's label.

Belvest for: Mariano Rubinacci, Hermes, Jack Taylor, Davide Cenci, Bruno Piatelli at Barney's, Gieves & Hawkes

R. Caruso for: Sulka, Bijan, Tommy Hilfiger

Nervesa for: Calvin Klein Black Label, Cifonelli

Castangia for: Battistoni, Jay Kos, Bergdorf Goodman Private Label (MTM)

Canali for: Lanvin, Faconnable, Gieves & Hawkes

Cantarelli for: Faconnable, Bergdorf Goodman Private Label, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Brooks Brothers

Chester Barrie for: Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Huntsman, Turnbull & Asser, and a couple of new lines at Carrol & Company and Saks, can't remember the names at the moment.

I'm sure I'm forgetting a couple of dozen other's. A lot of those collaborations are long past and/or short lived. There is a lot of crossover - better to be able to judge a suit on it's own merits, and not have to worry about who made it. If it's nicely made, it's nicely made.

belvest for burberrys (the nicer italian made ones)

My goodness Andrew - all that just off the top of your head? Remarkable.

Martin Greenfield for Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
Individualized and Southwick dozens of other companies' MTM programs.

Hickey Freeman for Burberry London (US-made ones)

Zegna for Gucci, I believe

I am new here, so please be gentle. I find this thread very interesting. Is there a way of determining maker by the internal labels? It would be helpful to find out who makes garmets for boutique stores.

Vestimenta for Armani Black Label

Martin Greenfield for Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece

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Greenfield also makes/made for the old Marcus, Neiman Marcus label, for Thom Brown, and for this new designer Andrew Harmon as mentioned in this months GQ. They also do bespoke suits, for instance, Alan Flusser, Edgar Pomeroy and Jack Simpson (before he joined Oxxford.) Greenfield can make as good a suit as anyone if you spec it.

Vestimenta does private label for Billy Blue, and maybe for Hilton??

Zegna has done suits for Gucci, Prada, Romeo Gigli, Dunhill and others.

Edit - Hickey Freeman for Gieves & Hawkes "Bespoke", Burberry and Cerruti 1881 (I'm pretty sure on that last one, but could be wrong.) For those that aren't aware, Walter Morton has been a Hickey Freeman label since day one.

This is an interesting exercise, particularly in that I have a blind spot for European makers and labels.

One distinction should be noted. There is a difference between a manufacturer that makes clothing that is, in turn, sold to retailers under another label and, on the other hand, a manufacturer that sells directly to a store for the store to sell under its own label. For instance, StAndrews makes for Ralph Lauren Purple Label and for Bergdorf Goodman private label. Following the transactions, StAndrews sells to Ralph and Ralph sells to Nieman Marcus and NM sells to you. Alternatively, StAndrews sells to Bergdorf Goodman and BG sells to you. Profit is realized in each transaction. None of the players is operating a charity; each wants his full share. What can be done to keep each player satisfied when the eventual retail price must be split three ways instead of two?

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I think there is a big misconception on this board that because a particular label is made by a contractor, you're getting that contractors suit. When you buy a Gucci suit, are you really getting just a Zegna?

The way it works is the label designs the suit from start to finish; all the detailing and intracacies that go into the visual aspect of the product, fabric included. Then the brand contracts out to the contractor to use thier factories and that's it. It would be cost prohibitive if Gucci made suits using it's own factories, the same for many other labels as well.

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