Originally Posted by ntempleman
Annonay calf here, switched my allegiances. I make all my shoe lasts under measure on the instep, much more consistent if the last is under and you make all pairs on it with the facings together. Otherwise how do you keep them the same when lasting one pair to the next, unless you can lace them all up with supreme consistency. If another style is requested which doesn't have laces it's easy enough to fit the last up, and you need to fit up for different styles like monks or double monks anyway.
I've done both. Currently...and working well so far...I am fitting up lasts to the precise measurements--high instep, low instep, waist, joint, long heel and short heel. Then, I have a "cran" (trick) / device for lacing them up with the exact lacing gap I want and with the facings completely straight. I know all too well that if you don't lace them up tight or don't do something
to compensate if you lace them up with "proper" gap, you'll get curved and inconsistent facings.
That approach is probably a hangover from doing "long work" (pull-on boots) for so many years) but I also make some jodhpurs and chelseas and I suspect the fit over the instep has to be pretty true (despite the lack of laces) or the foot just slides around in the boot and ugly wrinkles and pipes develop over the instep.
And this way, the measurements are true to the foot and good-to-go for nearly any style that I can think of. Once and done, as who should say.