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Nicholas Templeman: A Bespoke Shoemaker - Page 25

post #361 of 371

I'm not a fan of the model generally, but the skill required is impressive, and Nick's work is beautiful.

post #362 of 371
Thread Starter 
I think the thing that makes them decidedly not-Dovers is the lack of a pie crust apron though. AFAIK, @jerrybrowne is the only one with actual Templeman Dovers. The most recent pair looks especially good, IMO.
post #363 of 371
I am not a big fan of the Dover style. It is just ok, fairly innocuous. I actually like Lobb's version more than EG's, but not to a huge degree. I have Dovers, but never find the desire to wear them. I should probably sell them.
post #364 of 371
They're kind of a Marmite style I guess. Wait, do you get Marmite over there? You either love them or hate them, basically. I'd never actually seen one until two years ago. But, to prove there's still call for oxfords, I present the following exhibit to the court:

post #365 of 371
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

They're kind of a Marmite style I guess. Wait, do you get Marmite over there? You either love them or hate them, basically. I'd never actually seen one until two years ago. But, to prove there's still call for oxfords, I present the following exhibit to the court:


Very nice. Weinheimer box calf I would guess?

I notice the facings are closed. Do you make the last 1/4" under measurements at the top of the facings to allow a bit of a gap when worn, or do you like to have the facings fully closed on the customer's feet? If the latter, does stretching after wear ever affect the fit?
post #366 of 371
Annonay calf here, switched my allegiances. I make all my shoe lasts under measure on the instep, much more consistent if the last is under and you make all pairs on it with the facings together. Otherwise how do you keep them the same when lasting one pair to the next, unless you can lace them all up with supreme consistency. If another style is requested which doesn't have laces it's easy enough to fit the last up, and you need to fit up for different styles like monks or double monks anyway.
post #367 of 371
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

Annonay calf here, switched my allegiances. I make all my shoe lasts under measure on the instep, much more consistent if the last is under and you make all pairs on it with the facings together. Otherwise how do you keep them the same when lasting one pair to the next, unless you can lace them all up with supreme consistency. If another style is requested which doesn't have laces it's easy enough to fit the last up, and you need to fit up for different styles like monks or double monks anyway.

I've done both. Currently...and working well so far...I am fitting up lasts to the precise measurements--high instep, low instep, waist, joint, long heel and short heel. Then, I have a "cran" (trick) / device for lacing them up with the exact lacing gap I want and with the facings completely straight. I know all too well that if you don't lace them up tight or don't do something to compensate if you lace them up with "proper" gap, you'll get curved and inconsistent facings.

That approach is probably a hangover from doing "long work" (pull-on boots) for so many years) but I also make some jodhpurs and chelseas and I suspect the fit over the instep has to be pretty true (despite the lack of laces) or the foot just slides around in the boot and ugly wrinkles and pipes develop over the instep.

And this way, the measurements are true to the foot and good-to-go for nearly any style that I can think of. Once and done, as who should say.
post #368 of 371
Yes, I'd fit the last up for boots like that. Often going over measure, to allow for any spring-back of the leather after pulling the last depending on which style.
post #369 of 371
Thread Starter 
These look pretty nice. I think they're for @jerrybrowne

post #370 of 371

Should have them back with their trees soon, ready for some action shots with bokeh and everything

post #371 of 371
I visited Nicholas recently to take my measurements.


This is the inspiration.
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