This morning I went back to my tailor, Mario Bosco, in Atlanta for my second fitting of my bespoke suit. To recap, I ordered a navy blue suit with light blue pinstripes. (I hadn't checked the fabric manufacturer when I was in there the 1st time, but I did check this time. We had chosen a Super 180 fabric from a new manufacturer/distributor called Tip Top. Mario believes the fabric is on par with Holland and Sherry, though far less expensive). Anyway, the suit is awesome. We had to make very little adjustments to the pants. I got single pleat pants, with two unflapped back pockets. The pockets on the front are side pockets (or whatever you call them). Very standard looking pants. I decided to go with cuffs on them, though might change that when I go back next week to uncuffed if they look funny with the single pleat. There is a lot of handwork and stitch detailing on the pockets, which I like. The pants are lined to the knee with the same lining I got for the jacket--a deep, rich burgundy. I failed to find out the manufacturer of the lining, but I will when I go back. The jacket is near perfect. I got three button, with the lapel rolling to the second button. Slightly higher button stance. The lapels are slightly wider than normal (a la Borrelli), though they are still notch lapels. I also decided to have a hand stitched button hole put on the lapel. The lapels also have hand stitching on them, which looks terrific. The only difference I can see between the stitching on this suit versus my RTW Borrelli suits is that the stitches on this suit appear to be slightly (ever so slightly) father apart. But hey, I'm not complaining. The hand stitching also appears on the boat shaped breast pocket, the flap side pockets, and the ticket pocket (much discussion about ticket pockets, but I really like the way it looks on the jacket. Just another feature). The jacket is side vented. I also had him add another inside pocket for my cell phone. This pocket is on the left side underneath the natural pocket and is about 2 1/2 inches wide--smaller than the other inside pockets. The sleeves have high arm holes and are tapered. I am getting 4 working button holes put in. I asked him if he wouldn't mind hand sewing those as well. He said he would, though there really wouldn't be any marked difference in the way they look once buttoned. Good point, though I still decided on hand sewn. The one thing I might get him to do is take out some of the shoulder padding. I want a natural shoulder, and this one has less shoulder structuring than say a Brioni or Canali, but it still has slighly more than the Borrelli suits I have and the Kiton suits I've seen. I didn't mention it when I was in there, but might when I go back. It doesn't look too structured, but a little less and it might be perfect. Sorry I didn't bring my camera again. I'll try to remember when I go back next week.
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9/28/04 at 1:06pm