custom, custom, custom. Once you shrug into a suit made expressly for you and have that Ahhhh ... feeling, you'll never go back. Even if the fabric is below standard, getting the fit done right and the hang just so is worth it. I have one suit made by a tailor in Romania (he's done three suits plus another three or four jackets for me) that was made from this totally disgusting navy blue fabric, 50-50 poly-wool I think, the same fabric from which the Romania Railroad conductors have their uniforms made. But every time I wear it I get a complement on how fantastic it fits, how great the cut is, etc. It's not hard to find a custom tailor in the $500-$800 range. Yes, more expensive than stuff off the rack on sale, etc., but even a mediocre custom suit will (a) last a lot longer and (b) fit a million times better. Go for a conservative grey or navy and jazz it up with color in the shirts and ties. But most of all, use your clothing to express yourself. Have fun with it.