I am having trouble deciding what type of dress shirt shoulder pleats to go with on a routing basis. Aesthetically, I don't care for any style over another. However, I do wonder about FUNCTION. Which type of pleat, in your opinion: 1. Allows the shirt to function best 2. Looks the best 3. Lays the best (well, this would be between the box and side pleat) So far, I have been ordering side pleat shirts. I think they are the best engineered pleat, however I'm not sure they lay as nice as box pleats. I have always seen box pleats as more informal than side or no pleats. I am willing to give a plain back a try, but do not want to lose any function. This is a very OCD question, I know, but that is why we visit this forum anyway. Best, Ligament
I believe box pleats are the least formal, and are found on shirts with button-down collars. Â The few button-down collar shirts I own all have box pleats. My RTW shirts that are the most fitted (slim), and IMO look the best, have side pleats. Â For me, they allow the shirt to present a nice sihlouette, while allowing a little room if you need it. I ordered a custom shirt from Jantzen, but specified no pleats. Â I think i heard the argument here before that if you order a custom shirt, if should fit perfectly without the use of pleats. Note: looking through my shirts, I might have to contradict what I said about button-downs having box pleats. I just found a Hilfiger and a Brooks Bros shirt, each with box pleats, and without button-down collars. However, my Turnbull & Asser, Robert Talbott, Versace, Agnes B, some Express, Etro, and Banana Republic shirts, plus others, have side pleats. Is this any sign of quality design or tailoring?