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The "Actively Discovering 'New' Brands" Thread - Page 13

post #181 of 258
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

Here is my report on luxury shirtmaker 100hands.nl

http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/128995914245/enchantment-by-a-shirtmaker-100hands-parisian

Probably the most precise shirt construction process I've ever witnessed.

 

Is there a place to actually buy from yet? Looking at their site it seems the shop isn't up yet.

post #182 of 258
Quote:
Originally Posted by orfane View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

Here is my report on luxury shirtmaker 100hands.nl

http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/128995914245/enchantment-by-a-shirtmaker-100hands-parisian


Probably the most precise shirt construction process I've ever witnessed.

Is there a place to actually buy from yet? Looking at their site it seems the shop isn't up yet.

Well spotted, I didn't know that their online store wasn't even up and running yet. They've only recently started to position themselves as a direct seller to private customers. I think the best would be to just reach out to them by email, on whatever contact email is listed on their site.
post #183 of 258
Thread Starter 
@Scbrown started his own little tie company and a number of his initial offerings are very appealing. The neat is deceptively nice (in the sense that I didn't really like it until I took a closer look at the fabric).

http://www.chancellorneckwear.com/
post #184 of 258

I noticed on their tumblr that they will have a US trunk show, so I wanted to share my experience with Regent Handtailored from Germany. They are widely available in Germany as RTW, but are also offering high end MTM. They are a traditional German brand, still doing all of their production there, but they have been restarted with a new owner recently to invest more into global marketing (which still needs some work in my opinion).

 

Their suits and sport coats, however, are very nice. They use very high quality light canvas and are very easy to wear, yet do not appear shapeless. To keep prices reasonable, they use hand work where ever it improves the garment (collars, shoulders, button holes, etc), but they will attach the canvas with a machine that creates a more uniform tension and thus can also work with extremely light fabrics. The machine is not very modern, though, it is specially modified for them and needs skilled workers to operate correctly. The result is that stitching is slightly more precise and less visible than on the Italian jackets (some might say it is too perfect, typically German).

 

Due to their relatively small workshop (less than 50 people work in production), they can run a very flexible MTM program that also allows some further ad-hoc modifications.

 

Their traditional RTW cuts are a little bit old-fashioned, with slightly oversize shoulders and a clean breast without drape. They now also have newer cuts. I do have three pieces of their older cut (RTW from 2-3 years ago), but the cut is not optimal for my wide shoulders and breast. I am having an MTM suit made currently with the new cut, which looks very promising and might be a nice complement in style (more classic business lokk) to my Orazio Luciano MTM jackets. Prices are a little bit less than Orazio Luciano, but I find them comparable in quality (not as much handwork, but even easier to wear). In fact, I do not see a difference to my single Kiton jacket except for its more luxurious cashmere fabric.

 

At least in Germany their are offering a second fitting with an unfinished garments, which is rare for MTM (the images on the tumblr of the fitting are actually mine).

 

The current images on the web do not really do justice to the pieces, but I handled the superlight cashmere jacket that is also on the blog and it is a fantastic piece. This will be my next commission, but the fabric has not yet arrived at the factory (though most of it is already reserved). If there is interest I can post more detail images. So if anyone is able to visit the US trunk show, share your impressions here.

post #185 of 258
Just wanted to second this. Came back from Ireland last week and stopped into O'Maille because of this thread. Amazing goods and Anne (owner) was very knowledge about the product and the actual women who knit them. It was like a throwback to a time before mass production.




Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

If any of you are in Galway, you should checkout the handmade Aran sweaters at O'Maille (apparently pronounced Omalia ).

There is a vast tactile difference between the handmade Arans sweaters and the machine made ones. The handmade sweaters feel much denser, tighter knit and demonstrate a more pronounced raised pattern than their machine made counterparts. It is a heavy coarse sweater. Nonetheless it is beautiful and well priced at just below 200 euro.





Furthermore, the number of women who can knit these patterns is dwindling (and they probably don't live on the Aran islands).
http://thewildgeese.irish/profiles/blogs/the-guardian-of-the-aran-knitting-tradition


Some tips if you are interesting in buying a handknit sweater from O'Maille.
1) There are some fit variations from sweater to sweater, even in the same size. It's best if you are there in person to try them on. For example, I tried on a roll neck sweater - the body fit well but the neck was too tight for my head.
2) They will ship to the U.S.
3) If you like a particular style, you can make it to order. https://www.omaille.com/aran-sweater-order-form/
But it can also be more risky give the potential variations in fit.

Further reading

http://dieworkwear.com/post/64122505540/the-making-of-a-meaningful-stitch

http://www.irishtimes.com/news/guardian-of-aran-knitting-is-taking-steps-to-ensure-the-skill-is-not-lost-1.254961
post #186 of 258


Thanks for this recommendation, they look lovely indeed. I wonder how they compare to 'mainstream' Aran knitwear especially as far as the wool quality is concerned. I am actually pretty happy with my Aran Crafts stuff..,

post #187 of 258
Quote:
Originally Posted by orfane View Post
 

 

Is there a place to actually buy from yet? Looking at their site it seems the shop isn't up yet.


+1

post #188 of 258

A japan overcoat brand :

 

 http://co-herence.jp/

 

an article from dieworkwear :

 

http://dieworkwear.com/post/132482063054/the-wardrobe-of-legends

 

I really like the idea of linking a subversive personality to an overcoat.

 

I expect to see some piece in Paris soon.

post #189 of 258
nm
post #190 of 258

Anyone have experience with Habsburg?

 

Quality looks outstanding especially outerwear....

 

http://www.habsburg.co.at/index.php

 

Best,

 

DL-

post #191 of 258
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidLane View Post
 

Anyone have experience with Habsburg?

 

Quality looks outstanding especially outerwear....

 

http://www.habsburg.co.at/index.php

 

Best,

 

DL-

http://www.habsburg.co.at/img/start/journey_new/js2016.jpg?v=1

post #192 of 258
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Relatively cheap-ish tie brand. They seem to only ship within Europe though.

https://www.poszetka.com/eng_m_TIES-193.html

 

I'm going to try out some of their bow ties. The designs are awesome. Grenadine and shantung are pretty scarce materials in bow tie-land...

 

post #193 of 258
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTB-85 View Post
 

 

I'm going to try out some of their bow ties. The designs are awesome. Grenadine and shantung are pretty scarce materials in bow tie-land...

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Their products are amazing! 25$ for self tie grenadines and shantung?? YES please! 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/313866/bow-ties/105#post_8323210

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:inlove:

 

 

post #194 of 258
Thread Starter 

Difou. Decided that for thirty bucks, this was worth a gander. Cotton, made in Korea (so also I'm a bit biased there, I guess).

 

 

Don't like that I can see the stitching, but, well, 30 bucks for an unlined tie. I'll report back when the product actually arrives. I'm not holding my breath for anything wonderful. They don't use wool lining for most of their ties, and the knots in their pictures don't impress.

post #195 of 258
79 euro grenadines. Not really economical if you need cross-Atlantic shipping, but maybe OK for people in Europe.

http://www.howards.fr/en/46-ties
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