That's disappointing to hear. Thanks
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THE AMI Paris Alexendre Mattiussi THREAD - Page 9post #122 of 1642/18/16 at 3:32pmpost #123 of 1642/19/16 at 5:10ampost #124 of 1642/20/16 at 1:12am
gonna play devil's advocate and say even though they don't mesh that well with the rest of my wardrobe, i like my oversized coat and cords. cords are comfy, short rise works for me, coat is lined and drapes really well. I handled a lot of coats from similar price ranges this season, the AMI was the nicest. Navy version is thinner but as a trade off drapes even cooler imo.
Edited by leeba - 2/20/16 at 1:34ampost #125 of 1642/20/16 at 7:32ampost #126 of 1646/12/16 at 6:31pmpost #127 of 1649/23/16 at 7:53pmpost #128 of 1649/23/16 at 8:04pmpost #129 of 1649/28/16 at 6:07pmpost #130 of 16410/31/16 at 6:17pmI just picked up the 3-button overcoat from last winter and can say that they run almost as snug as the blazers, particularly in the shoulder/back. I got a 56 and it still barely cuts it for me (I have a broad back and shoulders). The shoulders measure 20" from shoulder seam to shoulder seam, but half way down the back along the length of the armhole (which is roughly 10.5") and across measures 18.5".
Arms and armhole are narrow still, even at this large a size. Arms measure 26" from shoulder seam to center cuff and the bicep area (about 6" down from the shoulder seam) measures 9" across. The chest and body after that is much more accommodating, but not unappealingly so. Chest is 24" pit-to-pit and stays that way at least to the waist (2nd button). Length is 42", which is long but not too long for me.
For reference, I'm just shy of 6'3", athletic build, around 192 pounds. I wear ~42/44 in suit jackets (depending on make). I've tried on a couple of ami blazers in 44 and they were still much too tight for me, to the point where I gave up on most of his tailoring. I have one of his oxfords in 42 which I wear, but it too is a bit snug in the shoulders/back (and short in the arms as a result). Conversely, I have an ami sweater in XL that fits me rather well.
Edited by whorishconsumer - 10/31/16 at 6:50pmpost #131 of 16410/31/16 at 7:32pm
the sweaters always tend to fit large. i get size small. versus the suiting and overcoats which fits small/trim as you have mentioned. the pants depend on what cut you get but lately have been running true to size. i recently placed an order for some boxers, i'll chime back when i get those. also at first i thought the shoes fit small to size so i got a 42, only to find out they run more true to size. moral of the story is don't lift upper or you'll need bigger shirtspost #132 of 16410/31/16 at 7:40pmQuote:Originally Posted by juven
the sweaters always tend to fit large. i get size small. versus the suiting and overcoats which fits small/trim as you have mentioned. the pants depend on what cut you get but lately have been running true to size. i recently placed an order for some boxers, i'll chime back when i get those. also at first i thought the shoes fit small to size so i got a 42, only to find out they run more true to size. moral of the story is don't lift upper or you'll need bigger shirts
Except the cardigan, apparently - I tried on an XL from the current season recently and it's laughably small. Crap quality, too.post #133 of 16410/31/16 at 7:45pm
honestly i haven't seen anything from this season yet (i go to med school in the mountains, so no time). though, I had dinner with an ami employee in Paris during mens fashion week last jan and i believe he said something about working out the sizing so it is more universal across all their pieces. anyway, i haven't been as excited lately for his new stuff as i was in his first few seasons. hope that changespost #134 of 16410/31/16 at 7:56pmQuote:Originally Posted by juven
honestly i haven't seen anything from this season yet (i go to med school in the mountains, so no time). though, I had dinner with an ami employee in Paris during mens fashion week last jan and i believe he said something about working out the sizing so it is more universal across all their pieces. anyway, i haven't been as excited lately for his new stuff as i was in his first few seasons. hope that changes
I like the staple aesthetic - or what was the staple aesthetic. I'm generally late to these things. But there's a lot in the collection I can pass on. I just got behind carrot fit pants, so going oversized on everything's a step beyond me.
Making the sizing consistent certainly would be nice, depending on the direction they go. As it is, the sizing on the tailoring is making it so a man begins to question what he knows of his measurements.post #135 of 16410/31/16 at 8:04pm
he definitely does staples in his own way which is what i really liked, thinking back to 2013 and 2014 when he did them in colors like aubergine and light yellow. now with the kitschy fruit and smile faces all over the stuff i don't feel like i can wear it as often. still wear his stuff everyday but i just don't buy it as often. it sounds like you have your handle on his stuff at this point but if you ever need a second opinion let me know. perhaps one of these days i will get around to throwing up some of my collection. his suiting, if you can get a good deal on it (not that difficult), is fantastic especially considering the fabrics. that is what they seemed most proud of when talking to his employee. i asked if they could post measurements on their site like mrP but i am not going to hold my breath. just go off the mrP measurements if you are looking at anything online, aside from that i wish you luck. also, therealreal sometimes has good past season pieces for nice prices. worth a look.
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