I would guess Ash (most common) or Beechwood. Depends who made it too.
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The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Part II (Return to the Thunderdome) - Page 2362post #35416 of 479944/28/16 at 2:35pmpost #35417 of 479944/28/16 at 2:39pmpost #35418 of 479944/28/16 at 3:30pmpost #35419 of 479944/28/16 at 3:32pmQuote:Originally Posted by double00
over the past year or two i've become a true believer in lighter weight denim. Sometime in the 30s or 40s something similar to today happened and there was a sort of weight war among the various denim companies, and they ended up converging on 12 oz or so...
before that it was like 8 or 9 oz typically and that's a truly great fabric if well constructed - see the early LVC repros, 1922 501, pantaloon, type I jacket etc.
i don't know the end game today, maybe its a race to 40 oz haha. it's kind of a nice exercise to test the bounds of style and function (never forget that the 'modern' jean is really victorian-era workwear), but imo it's kind of a ridiculous gimmick.
I currently own 6 pairs of denim right now, I own a pair of unsanforized flat heads that weigh 14 ounces, Hedi DH 19cm MIJs that never state their weight but I'd bet my bottom dollar they are 14 as well, then I have 2 pairs that aare sanforized 21 ounce denim, however I don't like sanfonforized denim so these get no play, however there's also an 18 ounce pair purchased loomstate so post soak, they probably weigh in at about 20-21 ouces a Sq yard, and then my favorites, a pair of 22 ounc unsanforized denim, post soak most likely common in at around 24.
With that said, regardless of personal preference, 14 ounce post soak, loomstate denim is by far the most reasonable weight that will possess the properties denim should, the proper weight it should, and wear, fit, feel, and share the comfort that this weight has. Most importantly, it possess the body with the ability to form to your own over elongated periods of wear, denim of lighter weights or those that have been sanforized, do not possess such abilities. Unlike the difference between 18 and 21, the difference between 14 and 12 ounce denim is actually fairly noticeable. it's paper thin, and it lacks many of the qualities and properties your paying for when buying nice denim, at the very least, a sheet of loomed denim that you can at least feel there is some substance and fabric and body to the jeans. 12 ounce is paper thin, this will never form to you because they don't possess enough body to even try and take on any shape, and you'd be hard pressed finding any premium denim at this weight unless it's a rare women's model, or they are another rare type, a certain model that a company has designed for a very specific reason. Like a few decide to release a limited run of 10-12 ounce sanforized right before summer for a lightweight breathable denim for those super hot summer days, just to capitalize off an obvious profit opportunity.....HOWEVER WITH ALL THAT SAID, YOU STATE 12 OUNCE DENIM SPECIFICALLY FROM THE TWO DECADES SEPARATING THE WARS, DECADES THAT SANFORIZATION WAS YET TO BE INVENTED, DECADES THAT OFFERED LEVI'S IN 12 OUNCES.....LOOMSTATE. As you know, as do I and all others that tend to appreciate denim, loomstate denim needs to be soaked before it is ever worn, Usually being purchased roughly 2 or 3 tagged sizes above your size due to their ability to easily shrink 2-2.5 minimum in the waist, up to three, and almost possessing the identical shrinkiage length in their inseams as well. So now you have taken a sheet of 12 ounce loomstate and you have significantly shrunken the denim, compressing the fabric, thus resulting in greater mass in smaller area, meaning the jeans were never 12 ounces when they were worn back then, they just weighd that at one point, right after they came out that shuttle loom. The jeans you are referencing, when they were actually being produced and worn, may have been purchased at 12, but after their soak, this jeans could have possessed a weight of as much as 15 ounces, which would be perfectly appropriate for workwear, while 12 ounce denim might as well have been long johns, possessing nothing more than some insulation.
If the denim was in fact 12 ounces post soak, they would't have been appropriate for a labor worker, that weight is appropriate for a fucking bike delivery boy. At that weight you actually need to be sure and take care of the cotton, you cant just treat them like any other pair of jeans. If you have post soak 12 ounce denim, this means that, completely besides washing them, you will need to give them steaming hot tub soaks for a solid 45, perhaps even a back to back, at least once every two months, just to reinforce the cotton and fix all the bulgings and avoid knee or worse, crotch blowouts. This weight of denim too? It rips, and trust me, I am aware of this well. You will not find a pair of jeans at 12 ounces besides for the very specific marketing purposes I stated, everything starts at 14, anything lighter is not worth the money nor the trouble, nor the time you invest in good denim.
Now 9 ounce 1922 Truckers loomstate? This makes a much much more sense. A denim jacket, that post soak would probably weigh 12 ounces give or take, is still quite light allowing for freedom of movement and such, but still providing your skin protection from the every day wear and tear, also providing excellent insulation due to it being unsanforized originally, and never enduring anywhere close to the stress a pair of 12 ounce jeans ever would. This model and weight makes total sense and I'm sure was quite useful for a great deal of jobs, as well as probably being able to be worn a solid 7-8 months of the year at least, as well.Quote:
I think it's 90% what you say, 10% also getting used to the new tag. i mean they have had the same exact logo for roughly 60 straight years, so perhaps Ralph decided he would make one last move while still in control, and change his beloved Polo line label then bounce, Cuz honestly, who better to change the logo of by far the most Iconic, timelessly tailored clothing company of the past century. And no I have not forgotten about Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren's Polo label did everything and if it was made in 67 or fucking 2007, nothing ever looks fucking dated or wrong. A true genious, his final decision however...well it definitely missed the mark and in no way reflects the classic, iconic line in anyway. Some cheap bullshit tag, damn shame.Quote:
Like many things in life, they are an acquired taste, some learn to love em, me personally being one of these individuals, some don't want their denim being anywhere near that heavy or thick. And yes they are made primarily for the Biker cultures in Japan, they are actually quite oddly perferred almost primarily be older men, rarely seen on younger people. 50 year olds and such are Iron Hearts main market in Japan, only there however.
And just in case when you state, "You could literally stand them up..." however I dont know if meant literally more in a the sense to stress your point rather than it's literal meaning...well here I can clear that up either way...
Yes, they literally can. These are my Iron Heart unsanforized 22 ounce 301s, after their first soak and subsequent thorough cool dry period. And no this wasn't a rushed photo, I stood them there, and walked over and took a picture, and there they stood after I was done.
Now without question, the first 2-3 weeks, probably the first month actually, isn't exactly pleasant. You kinda feel like your trying to walk cardboard. But people wouldn't endure this bullshit for no reason, there's obviously a reason people do this and why they love them. As stiff as they may start out, they soon break into a pair of jeans that far surpass any type of denim you've ever experienced, far beyond comfort and they way they look on you, they fit you like a second skin, and when you take them off they retain the shape of your body until you put them back on. I absolutely love these things, by far my favorite pair of denim.
And if your worried about your balls sweating, just buy sanforized denim, that shit is pourous, loose and strechy as fuck. No ball sweat, not even at 25 ounces, however at the same time the sanforization process ruins denim....I think my balls installed central air a few years back or so, they stay good, no problems ever....Unless it's in the 90s....then yes, these admittedly, are not appropriate.
Edited by Jompso - 4/28/16 at 3:49pmpost #35420 of 479944/28/16 at 3:52pmpost #35421 of 479944/28/16 at 4:01pmpost #35422 of 479944/28/16 at 4:06pmpost #35423 of 479944/28/16 at 5:11pmpost #35424 of 479944/28/16 at 5:19pmThat bijan
As usual, I'm posting with poor lighting and iPhone pics
How have your regular spots been lately? It has been generally super dry around here for me. Last Wednesday I got this shirt
And then nothing until today. I'm hoping this means the dry spell is ending. Mountain climbing shoes for my brother in law, NA.
Barbera wool flannel FF 54
Reversible Lulu goose down vest
The next two are both orphans, so I'm hoping that he pants will surface soon.
By Isaia!? Never seen that before! Is this pretty common or is it usually MG?
This is my first RLPL tailored piece (St. Andrews)
Cashmere tweed, half lined
Favorite find of the day, and definitely not my size. From the same donor as the cashmere tweed as they're both badass and 58Lpost #35425 of 479944/28/16 at 5:38pmpost #35426 of 479944/28/16 at 5:40pmpost #35427 of 479944/28/16 at 5:41pmpost #35428 of 479944/28/16 at 5:42pmpost #35429 of 479944/28/16 at 5:45pmpost #35430 of 479944/28/16 at 5:56pm
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