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The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Part II (Return to the Thunderdome) - Page 1605

post #24061 of 51252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Restomod View Post

Gotcha...

I just have broad shoulders/chest and smaller waist that typically requires waist suppression. Don't want to limit myself but don't want $100 in alterations on a $10 thrift find either.
look out for more slim cut designers like Paul Smith,Z Zegna and varvatos. There not bad and plenty of them.
post #24062 of 51252
Will do, appreciate it.
post #24063 of 51252
If you find something in a thrift that you would have bought full price (if you could afford it), isn't it worth putting a little money in it to get it to fit right?
post #24064 of 51252
Quote:
Originally Posted by the2ndhandman View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Restomod View Post

Gotcha...

I just have broad shoulders/chest and smaller waist that typically requires waist suppression. Don't want to limit myself but don't want $100 in alterations on a $10 thrift find either.
look out for more slim cut designers like Paul Smith,Z Zegna and varvatos. There not bad and plenty of them.

Doesn't work for broad shouldered guys. Slim cut = smaller shoulder widths, so you have to size up and still get the waist taken in.

For example Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald 40R shoulder width = 17.25". 40R Madison = 18.5". (According to reseller measurements, so they might be inconsistent.) Huge difference.
post #24065 of 51252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Restomod View Post

Gotcha...

I just have broad shoulders/chest and smaller waist that typically requires waist suppression. Don't want to limit myself but don't want $100 in alterations on a $10 thrift find either.

Waist suppression requires removal of the lining (if fully lined) which isn't that cheap. But also think about what your spending. Say you purchase a mid tier suit at a thrift for 10-25 bucks. That's 750-1500 retail you just got for that crumpled 20 in your wallet. If you spend 100 (you won't unless your removing pleats, altering sleeves from the shoulder, or reweaving) have it look perfect and you just got a suit worth over a thousand for 120 bucks. These are all used, they were tailored to fit someone else, your gonna need to have work done regardless of the brand. Just make sure it fits your shoulders and the tailor will do the rest.

post #24066 of 51252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Restomod View Post

Gotcha...

I just have broad shoulders/chest and smaller waist that typically requires waist suppression. Don't want to limit myself but don't want $100 in alterations on a $10 thrift find either.

Definitely wouldn't try beyond a 42, and then only if the shoulders fit.

post #24067 of 51252

shoulders are the least common denominator ime. get shoulders/collar that fit properly to begin with and ease in the waist as needed. 

 

2ndhand's advice is very sound - get to know various brand's fit philosophy and try a bunch of stuff on. and also peruse the fit threads, you might find an idea that works off the rack and then you can use ebay, the local b&s, etc to source your steez. it takes time.

post #24068 of 51252

Got some editions to the Jompso reading list you guys should get up on if you haven't already. Purchase only after you own "Bespoke: The Men's Style of Savile Row," but it's a great book on the true British heritage brands like Barbour, Mackintosh, Dunhill, John Lobb and others, even covers Andersson Sheppard but the Bespoke book does so much more thoroughly. But great photographs, history, and inside knowledge and info on quality and craftsmanship and everything. If you're into British style and the history behind it like myself, it's a must.

 

 

SWD guys need this for sure, but everyone on here truly needs to read this. Details influential brands to trends, style, history back to the turn of the century, but overall just how Japan refused to let the art of crafting quality workwear die like America did in the 50s. I thought I knew a lot about Japanese SWD fashion and the obvious American/Americana inspiration behind it, but this author is amazing and really knows his shit. @barrelntrigger and @Thrift Vader get up on it, but i recommend all who love fashion and the history behind it.

 

 

Class dismissed.

post #24069 of 51252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amercs View Post

Northampton would be Edward Green wouldn't it?

Frenchy already pointed out: All the English makers are in Northampton.

That cushioned footbed is typical of C&J, and the sidewall writing isn't inconsistent with that. I'm awful at this game, though, so don't go by me.
post #24070 of 51252
Quote:
Originally Posted by impuntura View Post


I will post the sole nails later,apparently there are 9 different shoe makers in that region including barker loake and crockett & jones.
Those look much better in natural light wilk post a fit pic tomorrow
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amercs View Post


Northampton would be Edward Green wouldn't it?

They're gorgeous boots but the one thing is that Edward Green nor Barker, Loake or C&J would use man made materials in the construction of their shoes. I may be wrong with boots but I don't see it. I think this will be a smaller firm or perhaps a diffusion.

post #24071 of 51252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Restomod View Post

Gotcha...

I just have broad shoulders/chest and smaller waist that typically requires waist suppression. Don't want to limit myself but don't want $100 in alterations on a $10 thrift find either.

I've got to disagree. If you have $10 into a quality piece, $110 total investment for a tailored quality piece is a wise investment (you'd be hard pressed to spend $100 though). I'm in a similar boat as you, slightly disproportionate chest. I can typically get away with 2" bigger if the shoulders fit (which is where I, and more important, people in the know, say to focus).

My tailor charges $40ish, if I remember correctly for waist/chest suppression, albeit, anything I've had done has been unlined or quarter lined.
post #24072 of 51252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jompso View Post

They're gorgeous boots but the one thing is that Edward Green nor Barker, Loake or C&J would use man made materials in the construction of their shoes. I may be wrong with boots but I don't see it. I think this will be a smaller firm or perhaps a diffusion.

I was thinking the same thing whats the best thread to post these in for an ID?
post #24073 of 51252
Quote:
Originally Posted by the2ndhandman View Post


look out for more slim cut designers like Paul Smith,Z Zegna and varvatos. There not bad and plenty of them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Restomod View Post

Will do, appreciate it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Van Veen View Post


Doesn't work for broad shouldered guys. Slim cut = smaller shoulder widths, so you have to size up and still get the waist taken in.

For example Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald 40R shoulder width = 17.25". 40R Madison = 18.5". (According to reseller measurements, so they might be inconsistent.) Huge difference.

 

No offense, but do not do this. None of those brands are going to fit you properly. They aren't for large chested men who need a tapered waist, they are for thin men throughout or those who wanta fashionably skinny look to their suits. They are all build proportionally and as @Van Veen points out and those measurements do seem about right by the way, buying a slim, contemporary fit suit, the Fitzgerald being the most slim from BB's 1818 line, you're just going to end up with a really skinny suit thus need to look for a suit that is much larger than your size is normally which could throw off other proportions. You don't want a slim fitting suit, cuz you aren't a slim guy, at least not in the chest, you want a standard fitting suit and a good tailor.

post #24074 of 51252
Quote:
Originally Posted by impuntura View Post


I was thinking the same thing whats the best thread to post these in for an ID?

http://www.styleforum.net/t/24109/hof-labels-heels-and-nail-patterns-secrets-to-id-the-maker/0_100

 

I don't frequent often, but from what I gather the thread isn't as strong as it once was, however people who know their shit still hit it up, it just may take a few days or so for someone to come across them that will know the answer. But the best identifiers are what you already stated and know, the inner writing and the nail pattern on the heel. I would also post the picture of the insole as well. Hopefully someone will recognize them over there for you.

post #24075 of 51252
My bad I thought you said you "didnt" want to spend money on the tailor to get the fit. That's why I was just saying to "try" a slim cut in different manufacturers as they all have different cuts.It dont hurt to throw a jacket on in the thrift shop.You may end up with something that works without going over the $10 except sleeves but you may luck out and find something. Like I just measured a Varvatos slim in a 42r it's got a 20 shoulder 44 chest and a 40 waist that's pretty big on top and took out 4 inches to slim at the bottom it could work if that's what your budget is. As a tip if you have a Nordstrom credit card you automatically get $100 in free tailoring every year.
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