@OccultaVexillum any more details you can share on those shorts? They look awesome.
Apparently won't be ready until next summer :/
Their brand is called lownn
@robinsongreen68 No I don't own a pair myself, a friend has a navy pair though and he's the same size as me so I tried them on and just didn't like how wide the hem is (it's definitely wider than their size chart says). I'm 6'2" and he's 5'10" and they look really good on him, but they were off on me. If you like wider hems though they are pretty great but there are better options, like you said.
I think they are playing very safe - truckers, military jackets, tees etc. the womenswear too with dyed culotte-esque peasant trousers. There's less creative reimagining compared to something like Needles Rebuild or By Walid (but the pricing is heading into similar territory).
I too like the swiss parka, it makes me want to have another go at diy overdyeing a military jacket. The Vietnam-era BDU jacket I did a few years ago didn't quite come out as intended, although I have grown to like its shade of dark bluey-green.
Except that I have. I've painted leather jackets, DIYed special reinforcing stitching on jeans, painted and/or lacquered denim and sashiko jackets. etc...
fwiw, that Kyoto black or natural indigo garment dyeing and finishing as well as the shipping for these items are expensive, and should, if based on costs alone, add about $100-150 to the retail price, based on the sampling I've done. This is without counting duties.
So, is the retail still a bit nuts? Probably, but probably not as crazy as you might think.
I guess that I would disagree with you. I mean, theoretically, you could get pretty much anything done, as long as you are willing to go through the time and trouble. e.g. My next job is going to be an overdyed denim jacket with the heavy leather on the yoke and the arms replaced with navy leather arms with zipped cuffs, for example. I think that the entire thing is priced out to $1200, including a brand new heavyweight jacket (probably Ironheart).
Just because you can do it yourself or pay someone to do it for you is not a compelling argument that there isn't a place in the market for it. Oak, for example, and Assembly NYC, used to do this all the time with upmarketed pieces, as did the original American Rag, way before either of those two existed.
If the question then is "Is it worth it to send to Japan to get it Kyoto black dyed?" rather than having it done at a dye house in California, for example, since Kyoto black is doable at dye houses in California, or just using a super dark black dye, I suppose that the answer is that the "authenticity" of a process is worth something to the end customer. I mean, otherwise, who really cares that something is called an "ancient madder" when it is merely a "modern" madder, or whatever nerds like us nerd out about?
From what I know about the process, it's pretty darn similar.
As for the difference between "authenticity" and "hype" - it's all marketing, which is very clearly worth something. Otherwise, why is the country of origin so important to people? it's the image of Italian artisans making beautiful shoes, sipping a doppio, or of a cool Japanese dude all in indigo clothing, in ye old fashioned dye house, or an English cobbler in the Northhampton countryside. that we are buying. Otherwise, "Made in Italy" should be more accurately described as "made in Italy by Chinese people in a sweatshop that would look at home in Shenzen", "Made in the UK" would be "Sewed in Romania and lasted and soled in the UK", etc... We should just make really good stuff in the state-of-the-art Chinese factories and be done with.
I find the simultaneous romanticization of process and the push to focus on the objective properties of the product to be perplexing.
I think that we've moved beyond this to talk about whether it's worth it to send this stuff to Japan to be dyed.