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Random fashion thoughts - Part II (A New Hope) - Page 830

post #12436 of 13958
And I buy Bergfabel, which is pretty much a straight-up PH rip-off. This isn't a moral judgement, just talkin'

Curious, though, what is Arts+Science ripping off? The only mens stuff they carry I know offhand is MA+, Bergfabel, maybe Casey Casey, and shoes like Guidi, M Moria. Closest similarity there is maybe Casey Casey?
post #12437 of 13958
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicelynice View Post


James Grose has three or four leather designs, all of which are LL replicas or pretty close at least:

http://www.arknets.co.jp/category/ABC_1161/

Nothing wrong with it, but seems like a crowded field.

 

Is this serious?   Cafe racer and DR... those are classic shapes for motorcycle style leathers - LL is one of the brands out there, but saying that anyone who makes DRs and cafe racers are making replicas of LL is quite the stretch.

 

The JG guys take their project seriously, they employ local leather workers in East London, did not move the production to cheaper areas.  They use a limited range of very carefully selected leathers - those who saw the horsehide in person understand how much more pleasant these will be to wear than the stiff stuff that can often be found out there.   The designs are simple and somewhat predictable but the fit is good, the product is honest and the value is there.  

 

Surprisingly, it is not a crowded field at all.  There are a lot of fashion brands who have leather outsourced, but there aren't a lot of good quality, not SLP-priced modern leathers out there.  As the success of TOJ can attest

post #12438 of 13958

Some time spent browsing Zozotown and I'm now left with much higher expectations for how close to my mouth consumable goods can be stored (I would go full Regis on Remi Relief): 

 

post #12439 of 13958
I usually am not a huge fan of the stylings on SSENSE but this looked super cool:



I would probably only attempt it with loose slightly dropped pants (already top heavy as it is) but still, i like the gestalt
post #12440 of 13958
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Is this serious?   Cafe racer and DR... those are classic shapes for motorcycle style leathers - LL is one of the brands out there, but saying that anyone who makes DRs and cafe racers are making replicas of LL is quite the stretch.

The JG guys take their project seriously, they employ local leather workers in East London, did not move the production to cheaper areas.  They use a limited range of very carefully selected leathers - those who saw the horsehide in person understand how much more pleasant these will be to wear than the stiff stuff that can often be found out there.   The designs are simple and somewhat predictable but the fit is good, the product is honest and the value is there.  

Surprisingly, it is not a crowded field at all.  There are a lot of fashion brands who have leather outsourced, but there aren't a lot of good quality, not SLP-priced modern leathers out there.  As the success of TOJ can attest

Again, not debating the stuff is nice - it's definitely up there with Addict Clothes in terms of quality, and unlike LL the custom orders don't take years, which is nice, but the jackets are LL inspired, as opposed to a modern take on a DR or inspired by other leather jacket makers, right down to the default red lining, same brand of zippers, same brand of buckles, same source for the cowhide, etc. The brand is marketed as such, I didn't even realize this was up for debate.

I'm a fan of LL-style jackets, and the tan Sueude Ricarde is definitely on my radar. I just wish the custom orders let me get rid of the buckles, which I'm not a huge fan of.

The Manila is basically a Lighting with the zippers moved:




The Ricarde is a Super Monaza without the bottom, uh, placket? Or whatever that thing is called. I don't think it's a placket.

46hEkhz.jpg
7nBUNYp.jpg
Etc. etc.
Edited by nicelynice - 10/16/16 at 8:19pm
post #12441 of 13958
I'm honestly surprised by this. All DRs look the same, precisely until you make decisions about snaps, belts and zippers. The idea that this would be a replica is really odd to me. You can put any DR there and say that it's the same jacket "except for the zippers and belt."

The red lining is a classic choice for vintage and repro motorcycle leather jackets. Most definitely not unique to LL. It would be almost unnatural for a modern incarnation of JG to reject its brand's own DNA

I know that LL is everywhere in Japan so I understand that you would consider it as a reference point, but we're talking about ultra-classic moto jacket designs here. Many makers have done their own versions.

Calling them a rip-off is harsh and unfair.


^ Gucci


^ Schott


^ LW


^ vintage stuff
Edited by gdl203 - 10/16/16 at 8:27pm
post #12442 of 13958
From Rakuten:



That's a serious rise.
post #12443 of 13958
because COBRAS, man! COBRAS!!!
post #12444 of 13958
Quote:
Originally Posted by msg View Post

From Rakuten:
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


That's a serious rise.

 

maybe they just really liked the GI Joe movie 

post #12445 of 13958

I'd love to get a langlitz for riding and I'm assuming their waitlist is shorter during winter season?

post #12446 of 13958

speaking of riding finally found one of these in a size large after a long, exhaustive search. not sure how people tolerate the junya/vanson leathers for casual wear as this one weighs over 5 pounds

 

post #12447 of 13958
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicelynice View Post

Crosspost from the Artisanal thread

Got this Arts&Science jacket for my wife. VERY VERY similar to the Archivio piece from this season, I believe it's the same fabric - "french moleskin," which I dunno is an actual thing. Anyone know more about this fabric? Or the "Le Gaulois" tag?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicelynice View Post

And I buy Bergfabel, which is pretty much a straight-up PH rip-off. This isn't a moral judgement, just talkin'

Curious, though, what is Arts+Science ripping off? The only mens stuff they carry I know offhand is MA+, Bergfabel, maybe Casey Casey, and shoes like Guidi, M Moria. Closest similarity there is maybe Casey Casey?

Uhhh...
post #12448 of 13958
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnoldpettibone View Post

speaking of riding finally found one of these in a size large after a long, exhaustive search. not sure how people tolerate the junya/vanson leathers for casual wear as this one weighs over 5 pounds



How do you like it? I wanted one of those for the longest time, but after ordering from japan and losing the jacket in the mail, I sort of gave up.

Does the sizing run TTS? And does the collar stay on the neck, or does it hover slightly away?
post #12449 of 13958
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicelynice View Post


Again, not debating the stuff is nice - it's definitely up there with Addict Clothes in terms of quality, and unlike LL the custom orders don't take years, which is nice, but the jackets are LL inspired, as opposed to a modern take on a DR or inspired by other leather jacket makers, right down to the default red lining, same brand of zippers, same brand of buckles, same source for the cowhide, etc. The brand is marketed as such, I didn't even realize this was up for debate.

I'm a fan of LL-style jackets, and the tan Sueude Ricarde is definitely on my radar. I just wish the custom orders let me get rid of the buckles, which I'm not a huge fan of.

The Manila is basically a Lighting with the zippers moved:



The Ricarde is a Super Monaza without the bottom, uh, placket? Or whatever that thing is called. I don't think it's a placket.
Etc. etc.

The Manila is probably closest to a Lightning, with the zippers in the same configuration, but with the belt line of the Cyclone, which is the picture you had up originally.

 

Lightning:

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

I'm honestly surprised by this. All DRs look the same, precisely until you make decisions about snaps, belts and zippers. The idea that this would be a replica is really odd to me. You can put any DR there and say that it's the same jacket "except for the zippers and belt."

The red lining is a classic choice for vintage and repro motorcycle leather jackets. Most definitely not unique to LL. It would be almost unnatural for a modern incarnation of JG to reject its brand's own DNA

I know that LL is everywhere in Japan so I understand that you would consider it as a reference point, but we're talking about ultra-classic moto jacket designs here. Many makers have done their own versions.

Calling them a rip-off is harsh and unfair.


^ Gucci


^ Schott


^ LW


^ vintage stuff

@gdl203 - I'm not a big believer in originality in fashion, but that jacket is an homage to classic English designs, while a lot of the jackets that you have shown are classic American designs.  Lewis Leathers has an "American" style double rider, called the Bronx, that was popular immediately after the war, with that "British" jackets, gaining popularity in the 60s.  

 

Yes, all double riders are the same except for epaulets (passants for you semantics dorks), belts, and zipper and pocket placements.  However, it's important, I think, (and leathers become a more enjoyable hobby), when we really look from whence the original inspirations come:'

 

The Gucci, for example, is definitely inspired by the much older American Schott model, which has military roots, with epaulets at the shoulder, a coin pocket, and a full belt.  

 

And the classic buco double rider has the famous D shaped pocket.

 

Personally, I don't think that it's an indictment to say that one modern designer made a version of a classic jacket.  There is nothing wrong with evolution rather than revolution, and I think that the results are often more organic and interesting.  I would agree that "rip off" is probably overly harsh and implies something negative.

 

That said - man, double riders are so over saturated right now.  It's gone from being a badass jacket to the jacket of choice for co-eds.

post #12450 of 13958
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benesyed View Post

I usually am not a huge fan of the stylings on SSENSE but this looked super cool:



I would probably only attempt it with loose slightly dropped pants (already top heavy as it is) but still, i like the gestalt

I actually think ssense do a good job on their styling. Some of the stuff they've done with geller has been great the past 2 seasons.
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