or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › Random fashion thoughts - Part II (A New Hope)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Random fashion thoughts - Part II (A New Hope) - Page 763

post #11431 of 13796

HBA puff piece in The New Yorker:

 

http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2016/09/05/hood-by-airs-radical-streetwear

 

Quote:
In the aughts, Manhattan boutiques were awash in designer hoodies (many of them by Jeremy Scott and Raf Simons). Oliver judged their stitch too fine, their length too short, their colors too bright, their patterns too busy. He felt that designers who appropriated streetwear had a fascination with urban men but were also afraid of them—he considered their skittish engagement to be “peckish,” “gross,” and “disconnected from the real masculinity” driving street culture. He told me, “It’s, like, ‘I think that guy is really hot, but I don’t know how to approach him, so I’m going to put elements of myself in him.’ There’s a power play where you’re inspired by something but you don’t want to give it credit.” Turned off by these “fey” imitations of streetwear, Oliver made clothes that were aggressively harsh and masculine. The graphics on his T-shirts often played with urban-horror imagery: a panorama of a prison yard, red marks evoking blood spattered by gunfire. At the same time, instead of hinting at homoeroticism, he foregrounded it. The first Hood By Air editorial video, uploaded to YouTube in September, 2007, featured a model repeatedly grabbing his crotch.

 

Quote:

In 2012, Oliver asked Weinraub to work alongside him on the relaunch of Hood By Air. (The partnership with López was completely dissolved.) She said yes. Weinraub, who is eight years older than Oliver, told me that she felt protective of Hood By Air. “It was at the point where other people started seeing it as a success,” she said. “And at that point people start to rob you—blind. They start to trick you.”

...

In order for Hood By Air to maintain control of its intellectual property, Weinraub believed, it had to grow quickly and attract media attention. Otherwise, the company’s designs would be pirated by bigger labels, which treated avant-garde street culture as a resource to be plundered.

post #11432 of 13796
Is it really a puff piece ? Haven't read that one so I don't know how hagiographic it gets but their designer profiles in the past have been pretty ok.
post #11433 of 13796
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sipang View Post

Is it really a puff piece ? Haven't read that one so I don't know how hagiographic it gets but their designer profiles in the past have been pretty ok.

I just read it.  It's pretty puffy and non-critical.  Unsurprising, though.  We are in the midst of a culture war, and gender identity is one of battlefields, so it's difficult to not be on one side or the other when the story focuses so much on what is fundamentally a very queer experience.  

 

Re. Raf Simons and Jeremy Scott - yes, NYC boutiques were full of their hoodies in the noughties, but I was much older than these guys in the noughties, and remember also that a lot of hoodies were being produced by brands that were definitely very "straight", and were not referencing "urban" culture at all, but were part of the workwear/heritage/back to the woods trend.

 

Also, I remember that whole queer NYC crowd in the early and mid noughties, and I remember it as being a lot less exciting and stimulating and a lot more vapid and a poor imitation of intellectualism that quickly turned boring.  Think of the movie "Party Monster".

post #11434 of 13796
Quote:
Originally Posted by baltimoron View Post

Fashion and technology exhibit at the met is really cool. If you get the chance I would recommend going before it closes.

Seconded. Just went this afternoon. (The architectural models from the early Americas was also a nice little show.) It seems like The Met has done one fashion or textile show annually for several years. They're always interesting shows but also verge on advertising, which is itself an interesting phenomenon. I always check the corporate sponsors. This year Apple and Conde Nast were the two primary benefactors.
post #11435 of 13796

hoodies in the noughties were bape and bape knockoffs

post #11436 of 13796
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by conceptual 4est View Post
 

hoodies in the noughties were bape and bape knockoffs

Right, and Alternative Apparel ones.  It was always a pretty universal thing.

post #11437 of 13796
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post
 

Decided I like this coat:

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

What is that coating on it?

 

 

I'm getting a strong Naugahyde vibe. 


Edited by Parker - 8/31/16 at 8:50pm
post #11438 of 13796

I had a polyurethane-coated bomber with a similar glossy, dimpled finish.

post #11439 of 13796
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post

Seconded. Just went this afternoon. (The architectural models from the early Americas was also a nice little show.) It seems like The Met has done one fashion or textile show annually for several years. They're always interesting shows but also verge on advertising, which is itself an interesting phenomenon. I always check the corporate sponsors. This year Apple and Conde Nast were the two primary benefactors.

Yeah they had a book signing for Anna Wintour as we were walking out of the exhibit hall. Thought the miyake section was really cool.



post #11440 of 13796
Speaking of coatings, the resin coated wool from Yang Li a was cool. Anybody picked it up for dirt cheap on lncc (rip) ?



post #11441 of 13796
Quote:
Originally Posted by sipang View Post

Speaking of coatings, the resin coated wool from Yang Li a was cool. Anybody picked it up for dirt cheap on lncc (rip) ?

  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

The long coat is available on Yoox.

post #11442 of 13796
@OccultaVexillum you could check out Corlection, only denim focused shop I know of in Sydney but mostly Japanese raw denim; not sure if you're looking for black denim (might be an Acne standalone somewhere though).
post #11443 of 13796
Thanks, I'm not really looking for denim though.
Just most of the shops I remember in Sydney seem to be closed now. Supply Store is still going strong and still really dope and Harrolds is good for looking around, I've still never been to the Songs for the Mute shop so I want to do that and I know there's supposed to be a rad store in china town but it apparently only stocks small sizes. Other than that I don't know where to look.
post #11444 of 13796
Didn't realise jawns was code for clothes haha, also thanks for the heads up on the SFTM store front needa check it out next time I'm up there. I think Andrew MacDonald has a storrefront now too. The place in chinatown is called Pieces and has some Guidi and Ziggy Chen upstairs if you're keen.
post #11445 of 13796
Oh cool good looks on the china town store, I've been trying to remember the name of it. You've been? Is it all smaller sizes? I was told it was a lot of Rick, Damir, Thamanyah etc.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Streetwear and Denim
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › Random fashion thoughts - Part II (A New Hope)