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Enzo Bonafe Handmade Shoes. - Page 180

post #2686 of 2838
@DWFII
As always, your insight, opinions and contributions to this thread are greatly appreciated.
I am aware that you have a reputation as a very good and meticulous fitter. And you also take pride in using the best leathers for your work.
Have you ever had a problem of dealing with a client's perception of their shoes/boots creasing more than they can accept? If so, what do you usually put it down to, and how would you manage the "problem"?
post #2687 of 2838
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderMarch View Post

...

Have you ever had a problem of dealing with a client's perception of their shoes/boots creasing more than they can accept? If so, what do you usually put it down to, and how would you manage the "problem"?

Well, this is Bonafe's thread and so I think this should be my last post on this subject...at least here.

No, I never have. Whether it is because I deliberately fit snug or because these are niceties that most of my customers don't pay much attention to, I don't know.

The only time this issue has arisen was when I misfit a customer...at his insistence and despite my misgivings and objections. He was happy as a clam but I hated everything about those boots when he had walked a half dozen steps.

However, that's "bespoke."

PS and on edit...

Toe spring, as well as the direction a vamp is cut relative to the lines of stretch and the way the shoe is lasted have, I believe, a profound and measurable influence on creasing. For those interested I will be out of touch tomorrow but would be glad to explain my thinking over in Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions after that. FWIW.

--
Edited by DWFII - 9/13/16 at 8:35pm
post #2688 of 2838
@02///M3 Yea I'm sure Gabriel can answer most of your questions privately. I just wanted to make a note on your above picture though - please, please, please use proper shoe trees in your shoes. When spending this amount on shoes, you don't really want to save in on the trees.
post #2689 of 2838
Gabriel mentioned this in his email today as well. Just for reassurance, those are travel trees which I use when I go straight from the office to the gym then home. They normally sit with a similar type of cedar trees used in the other shoes.
post #2690 of 2838
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepyinsanfran View Post



good to know that you believe it's the sizing, and the way the user first creased the shoes (perhaps not using the pencil-on-vamp for the first few steps)
and not something to do with the quality of the hide.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 02///M3 View Post


I have never used the pencil-on-vamp trick for any shoes and honestly never could bring myself to do something that seems so silly. Nor would it have helped here, since they are creasing in many places other than the vamp (toe box, etc). You can even see that there is creasing near the eyelets, where there is no flex at all.

Anyway, again, sorry to keep this going. I have no doubt EB makes great shoes, judging by most posters experiences here. Indeed I have another pair on the way. I think in this case I just got subpar hide or something.

Guys I would urge caution when using penci-on-vamp trick. I had good and bad results when using pencil-on-vamp trick. The good results were visible on well fitting shoes while on "bad" fitting shoes, those that have extra space in vamp area the results were regrettable.
post #2691 of 2838

First time out with these. :)

Got to do something about the high instep.

post #2692 of 2838

Crosspost from Enzo Bonafe GMTO thread

Hi

 

I'm looking for at least 3 more participants for a GMTO through skoak.The price would be 4880 SEK (50% deposit and the remaining at the delivery). Open to suggestions.

 

 

Model:3922, modified

Upper: Dark brown museum

Shaft: Hidro oceano

Sole: Millerighe rubber sole(black)
last:74945

Edge color: Black

Eyelets: 4 blind eyelets and 4 speed hooks (in dark color)

Welt: Hand welted 270 degree

Laces: flat lace

 

So this model:

http://cdn.styleforum.net/3/39/39fa5683_IMG_0532.jpeg

Here is the leather combination:

http://cdn.styleforum.net/8/83/83d44cb2_Enzo-Bonafe-3922-Darkbrown-Museum-Hidro-Oceano.jpeg 

post #2693 of 2838
Help me out, what's the difference between the two models pictured, aside from different color uppers? Just the brogueing around the shaft?
post #2694 of 2838
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pbayvip View Post

Help me out, what's the difference between the two models pictured, aside from different color uppers? Just the brogueing around the shaft?

That and the last.
post #2695 of 2838
Thanks.
Not that I need another pair of boots, but I like those so count me in.
post #2696 of 2838
Quote:
Originally Posted by laufer View Post


Guys I would urge caution when using penci-on-vamp trick. I had good and bad results when using pencil-on-vamp trick. The good results were visible on well fitting shoes while on "bad" fitting shoes, those that have extra space in vamp area the results were regrettable.

How does one decide where to put the pencil? I'd like to try this but don't want to screw it all up.
post #2697 of 2838
Quote:
Originally Posted by Odd I/O View Post

How does one decide where to put the pencil? I'd like to try this but don't want to screw it all up.

I've written a post about this on my blog a while back. I've never had a bad experience with this, as Laufer has.
post #2698 of 2838
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

I've written a post about this on my blog a while back. I've never had a bad experience with this, as Laufer has.

Good tutorial...spot on.
post #2699 of 2838
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Good tutorial...spot on.

Thanks!
post #2700 of 2838
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbaltazar View Post

Well I don't know what the other lads have to say, but "my" make of a balmoral boot will be something more or less like this:



Dark brown, no speed hooks (preferably), I'm ok with leather + vibram topy sole but no dainite or any other rubber sole.

- bm93
- CLTesquire
- kevenmee

What are your thoughts?

Hey Mbaltazar, haven't really kept up but was this something you were still interested in?
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