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Enzo Bonafe Handmade Shoes. - Page 117

post #1741 of 2837
Quote:
Originally Posted by cattitude View Post

Thanks for the responses gents. 363mod chukkas fit great for me, but I could use a tiny bit of toe room.

The 804 may fit the bill. I also like the look of the dress shoe on the 74945 last that Skoaktiebolaget has in stock. For the guys interested in this makeup in dark brown - any reason that you prefer the 804 for this makeup? I guess I'm OK with both. I'm looking to try both lasts eventually anyway. Just curious.

 

I have those Vitello Etrusco wingtips that Skoak currently has on their site.  They're on the 804 last and fit fantastically.  The last also looks tremendous.  Up until this year I had been wearing AE's and Alden so maybe the 804 last is an unconscious way of me rebelling against those rounded, blobby lasts.  If I had to pick one last for all of my oxfords (and with the disclosure that I haven't ventured into GG or EG territory), it would be the 804 I think.

 

I'll email Skoak and try to get some additional details, along with price.  I don't want to presume anything but I think @ThunderMarch and I were subconsciously thinking/agreeing on the following details:

 

- color: Vitello Meleze

- single leather sole

- 270 degree hand welt

- brown edge dressing

- flat laces

post #1742 of 2837
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdes81 View Post


My black calf Jodhpurs are 9.0UK (a half size down) and fit just fine without discomfort.  Might not work as well for shell, but the 9.5UK is really quite big on me for my Chelseas. They need thick socks to not have a lot of heel slip. So I had the room to size down.
Thank I will try this out in my future jodhpur purchase.
post #1743 of 2837
Quote:
Originally Posted by CLTesquire View Post

I have those Vitello Etrusco wingtips that Skoak currently has on their site.  They're on the 804 last and fit fantastically.  The last also looks tremendous.  Up until this year I had been wearing AE's and Alden so maybe the 804 last is an unconscious way of me rebelling against those rounded, blobby lasts.  If I had to pick one last for all of my oxfords (and with the disclosure that I haven't ventured into GG or EG territory), it would be the 804 I think.

I'll email Skoak and try to get some additional details, along with price.  I don't want to presume anything but I think @ThunderMarch
 and I were subconsciously thinking/agreeing on the following details:

- color: Vitello Meleze
- single leather sole
- 270 degree hand welt
- brown edge dressing
- flat laces

Hey there, this makeup would be absolutely perfect for me.
We're definitely on the same page.
post #1744 of 2837
Nvm
post #1745 of 2837
Quote:
Originally Posted by CLTesquire View Post

I'll email Skoak and try to get some additional details, along with price.  I don't want to presume anything but I think @ThunderMarch
 and I were subconsciously thinking/agreeing on the following details:

- color: Vitello Meleze
- single leather sole
- 270 degree hand welt
- brown edge dressing
- flat laces

Could you please explain what '270 degree hand welt" and "Brown edge dressing" is? Thanks.
post #1746 of 2837
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Could you please explain what '270 degree hand welt" and "Brown edge dressing" is? Thanks.

270 degree hand welt just means that the welt starts from one side of the heel, goes all the way around the shoe and ends at the heel on the other side. There is no welt around the heel area, but rather, a rand. This is the "default" setting for most welted shoes, Goodyear, or handwelts. Nothing special.
Brown edge dressing just means the visible edge of the sole is brown, this would complement the color of the uppers. And would be appropriate for formal shoes, as this pair would be.
post #1747 of 2837
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Could you please explain what '270 degree hand welt" and "Brown edge dressing" is? Thanks.

270° hand welt means that the welting will be hand sewn to the insole and run from the breast of the heel around the forepart and toe to the breast of the heel...as opposed to Goodyear welted (machine sewn to a canvas strip) entirely around the perimeter of the shoe, for instance.

270° welt is pretty much the de facto standard for a dress shoe esp. outside the Austro-Hungarian tradition.

Hand welting is, all other things being equal, considered the gold standard of shoe construction esp. among those who really and truly know anything about shoes.

Brown edge dressing is simply the colour of the dye used on the edges of the outsole.
post #1748 of 2837
Quote:
Originally Posted by CLTesquire View Post
 

 

I have those Vitello Etrusco wingtips that Skoak currently has on their site.  They're on the 804 last and fit fantastically.  The last also looks tremendous.  Up until this year I had been wearing AE's and Alden so maybe the 804 last is an unconscious way of me rebelling against those rounded, blobby lasts.  If I had to pick one last for all of my oxfords (and with the disclosure that I haven't ventured into GG or EG territory), it would be the 804 I think.

 

I'll email Skoak and try to get some additional details, along with price.  I don't want to presume anything but I think @ThunderMarch and I were subconsciously thinking/agreeing on the following details:

 

- color: Vitello Meleze

- single leather sole

- 270 degree hand welt

- brown edge dressing

- flat laces

 

That makeup is full of win.

post #1749 of 2837

Ok I spoke to Gabriel and here is what I have:

 

Enzo Bonafe style 3863

Color: Vitello Meleze

Last: 804

single leather sole
270 degree hand welt
brown edge dressing to match
flat brown laces
 
The price is the same as the current black GMTO; $525 USD.  50% up front/50% at the end.
 
The only variable left unaddressed is the color of the lining.  Both natural and a dark navy have been suggested.  I am open to either.
 
We have the requisite 3 that are in as to the details above so this is a go.  
 
myself
 
I think we're targeting January to get started.  Gabriel suggested that even if we wanted to start it now, that we should hold it open until early to mid-January because of the Bonafe factory being closed for the holidays.  So just let me know when we want to get it on the website.
post #1750 of 2837
Thanks for the clarifications @ThunderMarch and @DWFII. I suspected this, but wanted to be sure.

I would be very interested in this same make up. In fact I planned to start the same MTO, but it's to soon for me now unfrotunately. I wont have the funds required until the end of january.
post #1751 of 2837
Quote:
Originally Posted by CLTesquire View Post

Ok I spoke to Gabriel and here is what I have:

Enzo Bonafe style 3863
Color: Vitello Meleze
Last: 804
single leather sole
270 degree hand welt
brown edge dressing to match
flat brown laces
 
The price is the same as the current black GMTO; $525 USD.  50% up front/50% at the end.
 
The only variable left unaddressed is the color of the lining.  Both natural and a dark navy have been suggested.  I am open to either.
 
We have the requisite 3 that are in as to the details above so this is a go.  
 
myself
@ThunderMarch

@cattitude

 
I think we're targeting January to get started.  Gabriel suggested that even if we wanted to start it now, that we should hold it open until early to mid-January because of the Bonafe factory being closed for the holidays.  So just let me know when we want to get it on the website.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Thanks for the clarifications @ThunderMarch and @DWFII. I suspected this, but wanted to be sure.

I would be very interested in this same make up. In fact I planned to start the same MTO, but it's to soon for me now unfrotunately. I wont have the funds required until the end of january.

Hi guys, January is good for me. Am happy we can get this one under way.
post #1752 of 2837
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Would Anyone be interested in an austerity version of this?



dark brown (or vitello etrusco) museum/hidro oceano shaft

double dainite/Tomir/millerghie sole (open to either)

74945 last


Also open to this version




Edited by venividivicibj - 12/20/15 at 1:37pm
post #1753 of 2837
^^^ Assuming you mean 74945? I love the look of this boot and could use a brown dress boot, but the blue suede would be limiting for me for how I would plan to wear it. I could go for something with a lighter shade suede shaft still in the brown family.
post #1754 of 2837
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderMarch View Post



Hi guys, January is good for me. Am happy we can get this one under way.

@cattitude

@ThunderMarch

 

I spoke with Gabriel again and they do not have navy blue lining for Bonafe.  How about we just go ahead with "natural?"

 

Gabriel said we could submit things now and they would hold it and put it on the website in January.  Assuming folks are good with natural lining, I will go ahead and submit this. 

post #1755 of 2837

I'm good with any lining.  A dark brown may work too, but natural is fine.  I'm in no rush timing-wise.  I need to figure out my sizing, might need to go down by .5 on the 804.  I'm a perfect 8.5UK in the 363MOD, but I find the 946 in regular with to be a bit wide for me at the heel.  Not sure if that is a common fit pattern between those two lasts.

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