• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

The Vintage Shell Longwing Appreciation Thread: Florsheim, Hanover, Nettleton, etc.

JSO1

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
4,750
Reaction score
12,855
I figured I'd start this thread for those of us who appreciate the classic styling, superior durability, and all-around general awesomeness of vintage longwings. Feel free to post pictures, questions, thoughts, or anything in this thread, related to vintage longwings - preferably shell.

Of course, if the discussion branches out to other styles or makers besides the "vintage" ones like Florsheim, Hanover, Nettleton, etc., that's totally cool.

---------

I'll start with my own entry:

I picked up these Florsheim Royal Imperial longwings in color #8 burgundy from a fellow SF member a little while ago. These are model 97626, and based on my brief research into the codes, it seems they're from 1983. They've got the green thread and everything.

They were in pretty good shape, but the laces were fraying in several spots, and they were still on their original v-cleat "suicide" heels and 5-nail soles:







So, I replaced the laces with new laces from Allen Edmonds, and then I took the shoes to my local cobbler for new heels. He did just that, and also decided to clean up the uppers, which was a blessing and a curse. The shoes looked even better when I got them back, but the smooth shell felt sticky and gummy from the polish and products the cobbler used on the uppers. They also were noticeably darker than before - again, likely due to the cobbler's polishing and application of product - perhaps paste wax.









While I certainly appreciated the darker look, I wasn't terribly happy with how "plasticky" the shoes look with all that polish and product.

So I set about cleaning them. Using the inside of a sock, I buffed the living hell out of them to remove as much polish and gunk as I could. I then wiped them down several times with a damp cloth to get all the remaining polish off. A few stubborn spots remained even after 45 minutes of buffing, damp wiping, and cleaning. I didn't want to use any products like Renomat or anything on these, preferring to just use the inside of the sock and the damp cloth. It worked pretty well.

After stripping as much of the polish and gunk off the shoes as I could, I conditioned them fairly liberally with Bick 4 and then brushed them vigorously for 5-10 minutes per shoe. The shoes went from being fairly glowing after the Bick 4 to being extremely dull after the brushing phase. But no worries, after some intense buffing and polishing with a soft cloth, they regained their nice, glowing shell look.

I don't like my shell to be too glowy, because I think it looks plasticky, so I am happy with this "middle" level of glow. The color is much richer now, too - less dark, and much more burgundy with the deep red tones coming through. Not nearly as "eggplant" as Aldens are, and much more similar (in brighter light) to the way the old mahogany shell looked. I'll definitely update this when I have a chance to take a high quality, daytime picture.



At some point, I will need new soles, but hopefully that's a while away. When that time comes, though, I'll likely do a JR double sole at B. Nelson. I've seen his recreation work of the v-cleat and 5-nail sole, but I don't think the suicide heel is worth keeping, and I'd rather have the JR.

---------

And that's all from me on that - feel free to contribute your own pictures of your own longwings, or your wishlist, or whatever you want!
 
Last edited:

cc808314

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2014
Messages
2,009
Reaction score
5,529
I figured I'd start this thread for those of us who appreciate the classic styling, superior durability, and all-around general awesomeness of vintage longwings. Feel free to post pictures, questions, thoughts, or anything in this thread, related to vintage longwings - preferably shell.

Of course, if the discussion branches out to other styles or makers besides the "vintage" ones like Florsheim, Hanover, Nettleton, etc., that's totally cool.

---------

I'll start with my own entry:

I picked up these Florsheim Royal Imperial longwings in color #8 burgundy from a fellow SF member a little while ago. These are model 97626, and based on my brief research into the codes, it seems they're from 1983. They've got the green thread and everything.

They were in pretty good shape, but the laces were fraying in several spots, and they were still on their original v-cleat "suicide" heels and 5-nail soles:







So, I replaced the laces with new laces from Allen Edmonds, and then I took the shoes to my local cobbler for new heels. He did just that, and also decided to clean up the uppers, which was a blessing and a curse. The shoes looked even better when I got them back, but the smooth shell felt sticky and gummy from the polish and products the cobbler used on the uppers. They also were noticeably darker than before - again, likely due to the cobbler's polishing and application of product - perhaps paste wax.









While I certainly appreciated the darker look, I wasn't terribly happy with how "plasticky" the shoes look with all that polish and product.

So I set about cleaning them. Using the inside of a sock, I buffed the living hell out of them to remove as much polish and gunk as I could. I then wiped them down several times with a damp cloth to get all the remaining polish off. A few stubborn spots remained even after 45 minutes of buffing, damp wiping, and cleaning. I didn't want to use any products like Renomat or anything on these, preferring to just use the inside of the sock and the damp cloth. It worked pretty well.

After stripping as much of the polish and gunk off the shoes as I could, I conditioned them fairly liberally with Bick 4 and then brushed them vigorously for 5-10 minutes per shoe. The shoes went from being fairly glowing after the Bick 4 to being extremely dull after the brushing phase. But no worries, after some intense buffing and polishing with a soft cloth, they regained their nice, glowing shell look.

I don't like my shell to be too glowy, because I think it looks plasticky, so I am happy with this "middle" level of glow. The color is much richer now, too - less dark, and much more burgundy with the deep red tones coming through. Not nearly as "eggplant" as Aldens are, and much more similar (in brighter light) to the way the old mahogany shell looked. I'll definitely update this when I have a chance to take a high quality, daytime picture.



At some point, I will need new soles, but hopefully that's a while away. When that time comes, though, I'll likely do a JR double sole at B. Nelson. I've seen his recreation work of the v-cleat and 5-nail sole, but I don't think the suicide heel is worth keeping, and I'd rather have the JR.

---------

And that's all from me on that - feel free to contribute your own pictures of your own longwings, or your wishlist, or whatever you want!
Hey JSO1! I didn't realize that you have a thing for vintage shoes, based on your activity on the AE thread.
I have my heart set on one of this as as well, but I am not sure how they are sized. How would you compare them to AE Macneils, shoes on the 5 last, Daltons, etc?

Thanks
 

JSO1

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
4,750
Reaction score
12,855
Hey JSO1! I didn't realize that you have a thing for vintage shoes, based on your activity on the AE thread.
I have my heart set on one of this as as well, but I am not sure how they are sized. How would you compare them to AE Macneils, shoes on the 5 last, Daltons, etc?

Thanks

I would say that they fit pretty similar to the MacNeil. A little bit more room in the toebox.

I went with my 5 last size, which is my Brannock size, and they fit quite comfortably.

They're wider and shorter than the 1 last that the Daltons are on. I have these in 8.5D and they fit pretty similarly to my 8E Daltons.
 

cc808314

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2014
Messages
2,009
Reaction score
5,529
I would say that they fit pretty similar to the MacNeil. A little bit more room in the toebox.

I went with my 5 last size, which is my Brannock size, and they fit quite comfortably.

They're wider and shorter than the 1 last that the Daltons are on. I have these in 8.5D and they fit pretty similarly to my 8E Daltons.
Thank you!. I will PM you the link to the pair I looking at. Would love to hear your opinion.
 

AHS

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2009
Messages
1,041
Reaction score
4,615
Picked up these florsheims on eBay for $40. Looking forward to completing a treatment program for them.

700

700

700


AHS
 

smfdoc

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
May 25, 2015
Messages
12,121
Reaction score
79,413
@JSO1 started this thread well but it seems to have gone a little quite. Those who are interested in vintage shoes are welcome to also check out the vintage shoe thread by clicking here. All are welcome.
 

suitforcourt

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
8,240
Reaction score
19,635

suitforcourt

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
8,240
Reaction score
19,635
I also see v cleats at thrift stores and eBay. Missed a few gems already. NOS would be great!
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 85 37.8%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 86 38.2%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 23 10.2%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 35 15.6%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 36 16.0%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,393
Messages
10,588,933
Members
224,226
Latest member
BTMS Automaticdoors
Top