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Suit suggestions

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 
Hi, I'm new here. I'm a musician who often has to wear a tux for performances. I currently have Brioni for my performances, but being a violinist I sometimes find the shoulders a little too tight/restrictive. I've heard that Kiton has softer shoulders that will allow for more ease of movement, is this true? My second question is, I like to go out a lot to restaurants then to clubs at night. I don't want to wear a high quality sartoria garment where I'm going to spill grey goose on myself and have someone burn a hole in it with a cigarette. I want something elegant, sometimes a bit edgy that I can wear and not worry about getting little blemishes. I am aware that the "commercial" designers get little respect, but in the lower price points, what are some good dress pants, suits, and jackets I can wear out? I'm talking about brands in the region of Armani, Gucci, Boss etc... they're safe bets and can be procured quite cheaply. Thanks for any suggestions.
post #2 of 21
Quote:
My second question is, I like to go out a lot to restaurants then to clubs at night. I don't want to wear a high quality sartoria garment where I'm going to spill grey goose on myself and have someone burn a hole in it with a cigarette. I want something elegant, sometimes a bit edgy that I can wear and not worry about getting little blemishes. I am aware that the "commercial" designers get little respect, but in the lower price points, what are some good dress pants, suits, and jackets I can wear out? I'm talking about brands in the region of Armani, Gucci, Boss etc... they're safe bets and can be procured quite cheaply.
Helmut Lang and Costume National(about $1000-$1200 retail) and Emporio Armani ($600-$900 retail) will fit this bill well. At semi-annual sales, Emporio Armani suits are typically 40% off, 60% off on family and friends days. Helmut Lang and Costume National suits go on sale less often, but you can find them. These suits, in addition to their more attractive pricepoint, are a lot more suited to clubs than any Attolini.
post #3 of 21
Thread Starter 
I think I might go to that huge factory outlet outside NYC (woodbridge or something)... apparently you can get stuff for nothing there.
post #4 of 21
If you are not an unusual size, try Sartorial Solutions or Four in Hand on eBay. (Others here may be able to provide the names of additional reliable sellers.) Their garments, new or used, are usually top quality, the prices often ludicrously low.
post #5 of 21
Quote:
I think I might go to that huge factory outlet outside NYC (woodbridge or something)... apparently you can get stuff for nothing there.
woodbury Commons. 498 Red Apple Court Central Valley, NY 10917 (845) 928-4000 Thanks Mike for the Plug.  Its certainly appreciated.  For the record, I do not (yet) sell on ebay but only on my site. (Still as A Harris mentioned,  Great value...) Have a great weekend all. PS: No such thing as something for NOTHING...
post #6 of 21
Thread Starter 
well I'm in the process of getting back into shape... I'm a big guy by nature... football/rugby player. However I am going to be fairly toned again. My shoulders are wide, I have very muscular arms and a solid chest. Legs are large and toned... I'm not positive what my waste is. Last time I checked it was 38... yeah a bit of a fatty size... is that a waste size I can work with on RTW stuff? I'm also 6'4...Eventually I'll get down to a 36, and could get lower but I don't have time to be in totally top shape, so I'll just have to settle for what my current state is. MTM fixes this of course, but do you think I can still get something for my body in regular RTW stuff?
post #7 of 21
Quote:
well I'm in the process of getting back into shape... I'm a big guy by nature... football/rugby player. However I am going to be fairly toned again. My shoulders are wide, I have very muscular arms and a solid chest. Legs are large and toned... I'm not positive what my waste is. Last time I checked it was 38... yeah a bit of a fatty size... is that a waste size I can work with on RTW stuff? I'm also 6'4...Eventually I'll get down to a 36, and could get lower but I don't have time to be in totally top shape, so I'll just have to settle for what my current state is. MTM fixes this of course, but do you think I can still get something for my body in regular RTW stuff?
I definitely think so. As long as your body is proportioned to at least slightly fit into an average body proportion, you're good to go for RTW. I'm assuming with your athletic background that your body is well-proportioned and with your musical background, your posture is good, which should give you no problem with RTW. Oh, and I call your Helmut Lang, Costume and raise you a Jil Sander. I don't like much of the newer Emporio Armani to be honest. big, really baggy legs... kind of looks clownish to me.
post #8 of 21
Quote:
I'm a musician who often has to wear a tux for performances. I currently have Brioni for my performances, but being a violinist I sometimes find the shoulders a little too tight/restrictive. I've heard that Kiton has softer shoulders that will allow for more ease of movement, is this true?
Aside from needing special attention on the left shoulder, you also need to think about your right sleeve.  As in a conductor's suit, a bit of extra fabric is needed for the sleeve (usually added at the underarm) since you have your arm raised most of the time.  Armhole has to be high --- and I mean, really high, so your jacket body doesn't ride up and down with your bowing.  The upper back/armhole-to-armhole-distance also needs attention (might have to cut a tiny bit wider) so you won't feel contricted when you are doing pizzicato. One last thing: you need to have a really soft canvass, as your right arm moves in and out of your body incessantly.  In my experience, Attolini has the softest horsehair canvass.  The Neapolitan certainly has the advantage when it comes to soft tailoring. Just for interest: some of Karajan's tux shirts are Brioni/Burini.
post #9 of 21
Quote:
Hi, I'm new here. I'm a musician who often has to wear a tux for performances. I currently have Brioni for my performances, but being a violinist I sometimes find the shoulders a little too tight/restrictive. I've heard that Kiton has softer shoulders that will allow for more ease of movement, is this true? My second question is, I like to go out a lot to restaurants then to clubs at night. I don't want to wear a high quality sartoria garment where I'm going to spill grey goose on myself and have someone burn a hole in it with a cigarette. I want something elegant, sometimes a bit edgy that I can wear and not worry about getting little blemishes. I am aware that the "commercial" designers get little respect, but in the lower price points, what are some good dress pants, suits, and jackets I can wear out? I'm talking about brands in the region of Armani, Gucci, Boss etc... they're safe bets and can be procured quite cheaply. Thanks for any suggestions.
As to your first query, I play all my concerts whenever possible in the one Kiton I have. It's simply the most comfortable, mostly due to the very high arm hole (I discussed this once with the tailor for Kiton at BG about making a set of tails for a conductor at the MET) and minimal padding. Unfortunately, unless you're Domingo (who actually has his own bolt of Loro Piana fabric in his name), the cost is prohibitive for us lowly classical musicians. koji
post #10 of 21
Quote:
Unfortunately, unless you're Domingo (who actually has his own bolt of Loro Piana fabric in his name), the cost is prohibitive for us lowly classical musicians. koji
No, it's not Loro Piana. It's the 12-micron Zegna fabric, which is basically a bale of raw wool until you design your own fabric pattern, then they'll weave the fabric, and then you suit comes next. It's a deal at only $10G a pop. If you sign up now, you should get a place in the waiting list for some time in late 2005. Unless, of course, Placido D. orders all the remaining supply of the wool.
post #11 of 21
Thread Starter 
I'll probably get a MTM Kiton eventually with specific emphasis on my playing comfort. It might look a little strange in a normal setting though, the higher right armhole, the extra fabric under the arm.... I've played with very run of the mill tuxes and suits and I somehow managed quite easily.
post #12 of 21
Quote:
Oh, and I call your Helmut Lang, Costume and raise you a Jil Sander. I don't like much of the newer Emporio Armani to be honest. big, really baggy legs... kind of looks clownish to me.
I agree with the newer Emporio, but you have to admit that that is they most economical choice. As for the Jil vs Helmut vs. Costume, it really comes down to body type. You are much skinnier than I am (from your pictures I can tell that I have bigger pecs and lats, though not my a huge amount) and while Jil probably fits your frame perfectly, her suits are a little tight aroudn the chest for me and/or a little boxy around the torso. The slightly more body conscious cuts of Helmut and especially Costume just fit my build better.
post #13 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Quote:
Oh, and I call your Helmut Lang, Costume and raise you a Jil Sander. I don't like much of the newer Emporio Armani to be honest. big, really baggy legs... kind of looks clownish to me.
I agree with the newer Emporio, but you have to admit that that is they most economical choice.  As for the Jil vs Helmut vs. Costume, it really comes down to body type.  You are much skinnier than I am (from your pictures I can tell that I have bigger pecs and lats, though not my a huge amount) and while Jil probably fits your frame perfectly, her suits are a little tight aroudn the chest for me and/or a little boxy around the torso.  The slightly more body conscious cuts of Helmut and especially Costume just fit my build better.
I must say I've developed somewhat of a guilty lust for Gucci's wares. Despite the fact that they are fused and I'm quite sure priced out of their rightful league, I like their taunting yet subtle epicurian styling (to my eye at least). Since they can be gotten cheap I think I'll look into it. However, since I have really big legs from playing sports and pushing 3-4 times my weight for training I might not be able to fit into them...
post #14 of 21
Quote:
However, since I have really big legs from playing sports and pushing 3-4 times my weight for training I might not be able to fit into them...
Maybe I'm a genetic freak, but I run a lot (emphasis on speed and interval work, both of which build muscle and strength rather than endurance) and regularly leg press three times my weight (which granted, is still less than 500 pounds) and my thighs, while obviously not skinny, fit pretty well into a pair of Costume National or Prada pants. On Helmut Lang and Jil Sander, I often have to go a size up to accomodate my thighs and butt.
post #15 of 21
Hmm, I have a pair of Gucci pants that I wear, in 38 and they fit quite nice, I am about 215 right now and can squat 550-600 and press 800+
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