Dear fellow SFers,
I've got two very specific questions regarding bespoke suits in London for you, but let me provide some background information first so this thread will also be useful for other members.
My current knowledge on bespoke is based on readings (both in this forum and on other sites). I do own MTM suits, the best of which in terms of quality is full canvas, glue-free, mostly sewn by hand.
I am planning on getting a bespoke suit in London, probably from Savile Row, and am willing to spend up to 4500 pounds.
There are some characteristics that this new bespoke suit should have:
- Structured construction (as opposed to soft)
- Roped shoulder (so no straight or natural shoulder)
- Between average to generous shoulder padding
- Full chest, i.e. relatively thick layers of chest piece
- Single-breasted suit
Example pictures for those four characteristics are shown in the Appendix to this post.
When selecting a bespoke tailor for the new suit, I would start with characteristic 1., i.e. look which ones are well-known for a structured construction of their suits. From what I have read, such tailors would be Huntsman, Richard Anderson, Gieves and Hawkes, Dege and Skinner. Question A: Do any other bespoke tailors in London come to your mind who are well known for a structured construction of their suits?
From the tailors selected via characteristic 1, I would go on to characteristic 2, from there to 3, and so forth. I assume that any bespoke tailor of the ones mentioned before would be able to somehow do characteristics 2 to 5. However, selecting a tailor whose "house style" comes closest to the suit I am imagining might improve the final result. Question B: In particular, do you know whether the bespoke tailors mentioned above would all be easily able to change the thickness of the chest piece while still achieving a great final result? I am asking that because I assume tailors are not very often asked for a particular make of the chest piece, while different shoulders as well as paddings may be requested a lot among different clients.
After narrowing down the choice of tailors, I will visit them in-person to figure out which one I see in the best position to achieve the characteristics above. Also, I will find out with which tailor I can envision working together on the way to my next suit.
These are example pictures for the characteristics mentioned above:
1. Structured construction
2. Roped shoulder
3. Average to generous shoulder padding
4. Full chest