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Should I shorten this coat? - Page 4

post #46 of 77
Holdfast,
Some men prefer the longer length for the added protection from the weather and for covering more of the trouser. I think the coat would look better on you just a bit shorter than it is.
I would tune in to where a shorter length would hit the pattern in the cloth. I would shorten the coat by half the distance of the present hem to the bottom horizontal line of the plaid. If it still looks too long, I would shorten the coat to midway point of the horizontal line of the plaid. I think you only need to shorten the coat a touch and would suggest the first idea, halfway from the plaid to the hem length.

It is easy to see what it would be like by pinning the bottom up with straight pins all around. You could do this yourself. Just follow the pattern around the coat bottom. Actually the finished hem would not run exactly on the horizontal line of the plaid. The front would be shorter than the back if you follow that line. The coat has a long back for your posture, that is why the vent wants to fall open and not hang straight.
post #47 of 77
Sharp question. The gentleman* confesses that he's a 38S. It is a lot of coat to pull off for someone less than 5' 9".

* He's no gentleman. He's a seller. Makes the NYC boys wish they could find his stock

Quote:
Originally Posted by triniboy27 View Post
The question that no one has asked (including myself) before commenting is how tall Holdfast is.

On a tall person, sure this coat would look great, but at the current length on someone shorter, it'd look like a kid wearing his father's overcoat.
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post #48 of 77
Holdfast, if you can't decide what to do, feel free to send the coat to me.
post #49 of 77
Thread Starter 
letmebefell - certainly no gentleman. I always preferred playing the cad.

I'm 5' 6" (a bit more in shoes, I guess) , if that helps.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
Holdfast,
Some men prefer the longer length for the added protection from the weather and for covering more of the trouser. I think the coat would look better on you just a bit shorter than it is.
I would tune in to where a shorter length would hit the pattern in the cloth. I would shorten the coat by half the distance of the present hem to the bottom horizontal line of the plaid. If it still looks too long, I would shorten the coat to midway point of the horizontal line of the plaid. I think you only need to shorten the coat a touch and would suggest the first idea, halfway from the plaid to the hem length.

It is easy to see what it would be like by pinning the bottom up with straight pins all around. You could do this yourself. Just follow the pattern around the coat bottom. Actually the finished hem would not run exactly on the horizontal line of the plaid. The front would be shorter than the back if you follow that line. The coat has a long back for your posture, that is why the vent wants to fall open and not hang straight.

Great answer, major thanks.

I tried pinning it at home before posting the thread (that's what I normally do when trying to figure out what length I prefer), but lack long enough pins to go through all the material in this coat and hold it in place!

I was wondering why the vent wasn't closing. I thought it was just my fat backside, but I prefer saying the coat has a long back. So, just so I understand right - can that aspect also be corrected, or does one just have to compensate by hemming at a slight angle?
post #50 of 77
It is too fitted in the waist to look good that long. It would definitely look better shortened.
post #51 of 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post
In my world, I think only people who are 6'3" or so and up can look good wearing a full length coat. The rest of us are better served wearing coats that are no longer than an inch or two below the knee, but ideally above the knee. Those big coats just swallow you up and they just look like robes.

Holdfast i often admire your outfits but I really agree with edmorel's point. While this coat has all the elements of a good piece, the scale and proportion don't flatter you. Altering lengths may help at the margins but I still think that it wouldn't be enough to address the effect of the intended bigger cut of the coat. good luck.
post #52 of 77
Thread Starter 
Found some pins that at least partially took the weight long enough for me to take some more snaps with different lengths. I tried to follow Mr Despos' suggestions for lengths. Still not sure but I'm leaning towards the middle position. Thoughts much appreciated. Apologies for my slapdash pinning, my sloppy jeans and my general vacillation on this entire topic. I'm not usually this indecisive!

In order: unaltered - 2 or 3" shorter (Despos1) - gdl level (Despos2)

post #53 of 77
Picture 3 - far right.
post #54 of 77
Unaltered is best, Despos1 is second, Despos3 is my least favorite.
post #55 of 77
i think the third picture looks perfect, more because i think the pattern is too bold for a full length coat than because of the silhouette (although that's part of it).

but then, i want to see how it looks cropped way up to mid-thigh or just above the knee just for the sake of experimentalism
post #56 of 77
(not because it was my suggestion but) #3 looks like the most balanced proportions to me. Position of the buttons, lapel shape, etc... all work better with this shorter length. #1 is definitely a no-go in my book - really looks like some plaid covered creature has swallowed you... Not elegant at all. Shorter is more modern and you'll want to wear it more often, I think
post #57 of 77
2nd
post #58 of 77
Thread Starter 
Hi all,

I thought I'd give an update to this thread - I finally got round to taking it in to the tailor to be altered. I was wearing a proper suit underneath, which made a bit of difference to the fit and how the trousers & shoes appeared under the coat. After discussion, we settled on a couple of alterations -

1) Finish sleeves (duh)
2) Let the waist out a bit. Rather than needing to play around with the side seams, this can be done simply by moving the buttons for the cinch strap at the back waist a little closer together (ie lessening the amount of cinching the strap does). Clever idea I didn't think of and solves the slightly excessive waist suppression, as well as making me appear a bit less "hip-heavy"
3) Keep the full-length. Once the waist is a bit less suppressed, it actually looks proportional. Besides, I can always get it changed later if I change my mind.

I'll post pics once I get it back in a couple of weeks. I also dropped off a tweed suit to be finished which I think will look pretty awesome once it's done...
post #59 of 77
I would have never have thought about #2, but it sounds like it will work out well.
post #60 of 77
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by robin View Post
I would have never have thought about #2, but it sounds like it will work out well.

I felt a bit silly not thinking of such a simple solution to the waist but I guess that's why they're tailors and I'm not!
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