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San Francisco Tailor Recommendations

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 
Hi,

I'm just starting out trying to get as much knowledge as possible on bespoke and MTM shirts and suits. This site is a great source of knowledge and everyone seems really cool. I get easily obsessed with hobbies and now I want to redo my off-the-rack wardrobe, so you'll probably be seeming a lot of me from now on. haha.

I know there have been threads covering a similar subject matter but I have a different twist on my question. I would like to have some shirts/suits made for me from some of the Hong Kong tailors. They seem to fit my preference and, more importantly, my price point. So my questions are as follows:

Does anyone have any recommendations regarding tailors who would measure me for suits or shirts? Do they even do that?

If so, how much would they charge?

I would imagine going to a master tailor would be silly as they would be enabling their competition. How much skill is needed in taking measurements? I imagine most of the skill in making a suit/shirt would come from the cutting and sewing. Would a good alterations tailor be in any way inferior to a tailor so specializes in making bespoke suits in this regard?

Thanks for helping out a guy undertaking yet another expensive hobby!
post #2 of 21
Not necessary. For suits, see W. W. Chan the next time they visit the area.
For shirts, mytailor.com.

It's true that either of them will make both, but IMO you'll do better to use each for the thing he does better.
post #3 of 21
Thread Starter 
I took a look at mytailor.com. It seems as though it requires me to enter my measurements. As I have not done this before, I think I would feel more comfortable having a professional (or at the very least someone with more experience) take the measurements for me. It may be that I am being too cautious, but even so, does anyone know of a tailor who would do something like that in San Francisco?
post #4 of 21
Whether you need a master tailor or not might be in dispute.

But if you need a great tailor in SF, see Victor. He is next door to Wilkes Bashford and was recommended to me by WB to do alterations on a Zegna suit I picked up at La Rosa Vintage in Haight Ashbury. The suit was originally sold at WB. He ain't cheap but he did a total trouser rebuild and some waist suppression, etc., for me and turned it out in a day as I was in SF on a short business trip.

Victor's Tailoring
391 Sutter Street, Suite 308
San Francisco, CA
(415) 397-6312

I believe he works by appointment only.
post #5 of 21
I've been taking jobs to Andreas Gorges at 110 Sutter St., Suite 207. No complaints so far.
post #6 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferson View Post
I took a look at mytailor.com. It seems as though it requires me to enter my measurements. As I have not done this before, I think I would feel more comfortable having a professional (or at the very least someone with more experience) take the measurements for me. It may be that I am being too cautious, but even so, does anyone know of a tailor who would do something like that in San Francisco?

The previously mentioned Andreas Gorges usually gets high marks as a tailor. I'm sure he will measure you if you buy one of his shirts for $120.

I took an $40 risk on mytailor and did the measurements myself.

How much does WW Chan charge for a suit?
post #7 of 21
Thread Starter 
I believe Chan's suits start at $1000. He is having a representative visit San Francisco mid November for a few days, with whom I've made an appointment. As I understand it, they visit perhaps thrice per year.

I guess no one else have had my reservations about measuring myself. Although I don't mind paying a tailor $10-$20 to take my measurements, increasing that amount by an order of magnitude is a bit steep.

Carbon, you had mentioned Andreas Gorges sells shirts from around $120. Are those bespoke? Does he do bespoke shirts? If so, and his price point is around $120, that seems like a great deal.
post #8 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferson View Post
Carbon, you had mentioned Andreas Gorges sells shirts from around $120. Are those bespoke? Does he do bespoke shirts? If so, and his price point is around $120, that seems like a great deal.

I'm new so I don't know the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure is. I went to Gorges this week. I wanted his take on making a DKNY shirt look better. I don't know if it was a selling angle or not, but he simply said he didn't think it would be worth it because the shirt would still not look that good if he tailored it (the shoulders weren't right). At that point I had basically shown willingness to pay the $50 he said it would take to tailor it. I liked that he didn't want to tailor something that would not end up looking good.

I got some pants hemmed ($10) but then I asked him about custom shirts. He said I could get a custom shirt for $125. My understanding was that those were made-to-measure. I asked him if the $125 shirts were the bottom of the barrel. He laughed and said they were the basic shirts but that most shirts were about $135-$140. His shop was busy and he wasn't going for a hard sell. He said he meets with people for at least a half-hour to discuss shirts. You need to make an appointment, he will take your measurements, you will look at fabrics and talk about style. I suggest you call him to confirm the price and go in if you're interested.

My only concern is that he checked if I wanted cuffs on my pants. I'm hoping he just wanted the order to be clear. My understanding is that pant cuffs are a big fashion mistake, but let me know if I'm wrong.

I am waiting to receive a $40 tailorstore.com made-to-measure shirt. If it doesn't work out, I am going to give Gorges a shot at making a custom shirt.
post #9 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferson View Post
I believe Chan's suits start at $1000. He is having a representative visit San Francisco mid November for a few days, with whom I've made an appointment. As I understand it, they visit perhaps thrice per year.

I guess no one else have had my reservations about measuring myself. Although I don't mind paying a tailor $10-$20 to take my measurements, increasing that amount by an order of magnitude is a bit steep.

Mytailor also visits and will measure you. I don't know why they have self-measurement on their website as people seem to think it's their preferred method when it's not.

Chans suits are more like $1400. Still a reasonable value.
post #10 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stax View Post
I've been taking jobs to Andreas Gorges at 110 Sutter St., Suite 207. No complaints so far.

I think he does a great job too.
post #11 of 21
Thread Starter 
Actually, I think I know which tailor you're referring to. It's the guy that Pink sends my shirts to- next to Crocker Galleria. Yes, I've heard good thing about him. Unfortunately, I've also heard to expect a very long wait if you use him because he's so popular.
post #12 of 21
has anyone used andreas gorges for MTM or bespoke suits/shirts (i.e. other than just OTR alterations)? i would love to hear from anyone who has since it would be nice to a have a good tailor here in SF.

Anyone know anything about his background or what tailoring school his work may be most represented by?

thanks
post #13 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by alebrady View Post
has anyone used andreas gorges for MTM or bespoke suits/shirts (i.e. other than just OTR alterations)? i would love to hear from anyone who has since it would be nice to a have a good tailor here in SF.

Anyone know anything about his background or what tailoring school his work may be most represented by?

thanks

I've never had anything made personally, but he makes everything from shirts to suits and seems to have a pretty dedicated clientele. I colleague of mine just had Andy make him a pair of pants in donegal and they look great. I think the price was around $350. It would have been higher for nicer fabrics. I don't know much about his background except that he is German and he father was a tailor, so he grew up in the business.

I usually just bring in OTR clothes for alterations and have always been impressed. I trust him much more than the in house tailors at any of the stores in town. As noted above, however, he is getting busier and busier, so the turn around times are lagging.
post #14 of 21
I was referred by a SF member to George and his son Ravi @ seymours fashions in Union Square. Since then, I've had 6 or 7 jackets altered (some major work, some small) 10 pants made, and a dozen shirts made.

I've not had them make me a suit yet as I find it more cost effective to buy something from ebay and have them tailor it.

So far they've been good. The bespoke shirts and slacks are nicely constructed and conform to my body perfectly.

For price, I've found them to be reasonable. For a suit with 120's fabric it'll run about $1500. Pants are about $300 or so, and shirts about $180-200. All depending on the fabric you choose of course.

If you have the time, I'd recommend testing a few tailors out before committing to having a suit made. Bring in something to be altered, or have a single shirt made. See how that experience goes, and decide if you're comfortable spending a few thousand dollars after that.
post #15 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmulford View Post
I was referred by a SF member to George and his son Ravi @ seymours fashions in Union Square. Since then, I've had 6 or 7 jackets altered (some major work, some small) 10 pants made, and a dozen shirts made.

I've not had them make me a suit yet as I find it more cost effective to buy something from ebay and have them tailor it.

So far they've been good. The bespoke shirts and slacks are nicely constructed and conform to my body perfectly.

For price, I've found them to be reasonable. For a suit with 120's fabric it'll run about $1500. Pants are about $300 or so, and shirts about $180-200. All depending on the fabric you choose of course.

If you have the time, I'd recommend testing a few tailors out before committing to having a suit made. Bring in something to be altered, or have a single shirt made. See how that experience goes, and decide if you're comfortable spending a few thousand dollars after that.

bmulford,

thanks - im particularly interested in the shirts youve had done. could you compare the quality to any other 'major' shirting brands (i.e. in terms of construction, fit, etc)? any chance you have tried mtm or custom with any other reputable shirtmakers as way of comparison?

was andreas fairly flexible in terms of what you wanted - im thinking of mostly collar height, shape, etc.

thanks!

ill try and go down and see him myself this week
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