I just got a 10 shirt order delivered the other day, so I have some pretty good info on some of your points. First off, I'll note that the thin (ie. not thick) mother of pearl buttons currently being used are very different than normal buttons. Instead of having holes to attach the thread to, they have a little "head" on the back of the button that is used to attach the thread. Thus, you don't see ANY thread when you look at the front of the shirt -- all you see is button. To give the appearance of holes, the buttons have a four point shape carved into them. I'm not sure what I think of them, but it doesn't ruin the shirt for me. Part of me likes them, but wonders what the deal is. Also, the thick mother of pearl are of better quality now than they were four months ago. So, the thick MOPs are probably the way to go. For fabrics, I don't know what frech oxford is either, but I did get a pinpoint oxford that is sort of like an end on end fabric -- broadcloth for sure but with just a bit of visual texture (your eye can see it, but your hand can't feel it). It was the light lilac pinpoint oxford or something like that. Virtually all the fabrics are seasonless, save for some of the twills that have a heavier twill (usually described as "very soft cotton" or something like that, or "rug twill"). And, aside from regular oxford and the poly/cotton, all the fabrics are appropriate for business wear and casual wear alike -- it all depends on the patterns and details you use. Plain cotton just means the normal broadcloth that you see on most "department store" shirts (but don't worry, the Jantzen broadcloth is SO MUCH better than say a DKNY cloth). To start, I might go with a twill since IMO they look more expensive, are softer, less likely to wrinkle, etc. Broadcloths are great -- a true staple -- but something just really makes me want to touch and wear my twill shirts. My current Jantzen collection is about 50/50 twill/broadcloth. What type of pattern are you looking for? Conservative pinstripe, gingham, windows?