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Adventures in Dyeing/Antiquing shoes - a preview

Augusto86

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Originally Posted by NorCal_1
here's a reply to a poster on AA that asked a question about how I did the antiquing that I thought might be worth cross posting here:




<<Originally Posted by Rossini
I do like the overall effect and colour but I am slightly worried that, close up, it betrays exactly how it was done and doesn't really look like regular antiquing. Almost like it needs a good polish to blend the streaks in a little more and get a bit more evenness? But I am willing to be shot down on this! >>


great queston, so let me see if I can explain it

that first picture was shot in direct midday sunlight in order for you to see the light/dark mottling effects (similar to Lobb museum finishes) in the antiquing

Trust me when I tell you that the shoes themselves and the finish are much darker than they appear in that photo, and the antiquing effects have been smoothed out and the shoes polished much more than they appear. It's almost as if I put the shoes under an x-ray machine so that you can see the antiquing part 'lit up'

The Lobb-like mottling effects are the direct result of antiquing techniques using mainly shoe dyes to achieve them. Polish is added as the final step to tie it all together and give it a nice shine, but the polish is icing on the cake, and not the cake. When you use polishes only to antique a shoe, it's impossible to create the depth you see here, because polishes are thick and gloppy substances, whereas paints are thin, dry fast and are easy to layer on top of one another (ie you can see through to the layer beneath it).

To give you an example, take your kids paint set and a white piece of paper and compare what happens to the paper when you layer a series of thin paint brush strokes on top of one another in different directions vs using a thick paint to do the same series of strokes. You can't layer with thick paints because each coat covers the previous so darkly that the original layer gets covered up completely. Whereas if you use a thin paint, each layer creates a 3-D depth effect as it gets added on top of the previous and at the edges. You can see through a thin paint to the layer below very easily. Shoe dyes are thin liquid substances and work the same exact way, whereas shoe polishes are thick and gooey.

How you apply those dyes and how many layers and in what sequence is how you get the Lobb museum effects. And of course, just as white paper makes the best canvas background for layering paints, so too a light colored leather such as tan. If you try to do these techniques on a shoe that's dark brown already, you will still achieve nice results but it won't be anywhere near as stunning as with a tan base leather. You can use bleach to get a dark brown shoe lighter and I would suggest you do this to give it the best possible chance of turning out great.

To smooth it all together at the end, I use one very light swipe of acetone (
blush.gif
) over the entire shoe to blur the edges and blend the finish together.

By accident, I was even able to take one of my shoes and make it look like a real piece of wood, which is what I consider to be the "Holy Grail of Antiquing" that several Italian shoe companies have been able to achieve and one that I've always greatly admired. I might keep the secret of how I did it to myself,,,, then again, I might not ;-)

Btw,,,it took me less than a half hour to go from a plain brandy colored shoe to one fully dyed and antiqued and polished. That's due to experience,,, it will take you about an hour the first time and I suggest you do it slowly to get the best results. Shoe antiquers who use polishes-only can take hours and sometimes days to do their work and still achieve a result that is not durable (polishes flake off over time) and not nearly as deep a patina as those who use dyes. It's one of the reasons why Lobb shoes with a museum finish look so great and age so well. It doesn't rub or flake off with time like polished antiquing jobs do.

I hope this explanation sheds some light on the subject.


WOW!

Could you do a step-by-step, sort of a how-to? I have the exact same shoes, and I want to do that so badly.
 

macuser3of5

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Sounds like a good plan for my soon-to-arrive Land's End Gibsons.
icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
 

TCN

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Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy
good show! Waiting for the step by step. Thanks!

+1 Incredible. If that's easy enough for even me not to screw up, I'll be all over "antiquing".
 

NorCal_1

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Originally Posted by nerdykarim
I think they look great. If I may, I'd love to see a picture taken at a bit more distance that shows how they look away from direct sunlight.

Very nice job
smile.gif



here's a couple more

(they look like shoes made out of wood when you see them in person and they are darker than in these pictures)

IMG_5312.jpg


IMG_5310_2.jpg
 

NorCal_1

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Originally Posted by montecristo#4
Where do you procure the leather dye?


I used simple Brown leather shoe dye from Lincoln ($8.00/bottle)

Fiebing also makes a good brown shoe dye that's easy to find in different shades on the Internet and at shoe stores

the trick is to use a good medium colored dye and not the dark brown or light brown ones. Medium is dark enough to recreate Edward Green 'dark oak' finishes and it layers the best. Dark brown can sometimes be so dark that it covers up the layering effects if you're not careful.

The second trick is to either bleach a darker colored base shoe (if it's dark brown or even black) or more preferably, find a tan colored shoe in a style you like to dye, because it will pick up the antiqueing effects the best

the shoe I did above was a brandy color originally
 

emptym

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This is really interesting. Thanks a lot for posting it. I may try it w/ some leather scraps from Tandy before venturing to a pair of shoes.

Originally Posted by NorCal_1
And of course, just as white paper makes the best canvas background for layering paints, so too a light colored leather such as tan.

Reminds me of a cousin of mine who's a painter. She first paints her canvases with a bright pink, no matter what the end product will be. It makes for a very interesting effect, for example: http://www.carenmariemichel.com/cmmlaud2.html
 

Tarmac

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Okay, I was far from convinced from the preview pics alone. But now that I see the finished product - GAME OVER. you win.

Time to go buy some leather dye...
 

NorCal_1

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Originally Posted by HomerJ
Love that wood grain. Would this work on any shoe or does it have to be a certain shoe (leather, dye, finish, etc) to begin with?

I'd like to try it with these Allen Edmonds Niles. Is that doable? The one in the middle.

Oops, I see yours is AE.. so I'm guessing go for it.



those Niles would be perfect, but practice on a cheap tan colored belt first to get the hang of it

the dark brown shoe in this picture below was originally a Chestnut colored AE Clifton that I dyed to practice on.....and the Westgate on the right in this picture is the exact same shoe that that was transformed below it

IMG_5223.jpg


IMG_5310_2.jpg
 

Shikar

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Could you kindly post a list of polishes, chemicals, brushes etc to have for this project. There are a couple of shoes that may be transformed!!
I propose calling this finish the NorCal Museum Finish....NCMF for short
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. I would also like to try a burgandy NCMF, so would also need different colors of dyes.
This is a very useful and informative thread, thank you for the NCMF workshop!!
Thanks.
 

neyus

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Yeah that looks good. I knew the project had potential.
 

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