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Why all the hate for wholecuts? - Page 13

post #181 of 183
Originally Posted by jrparker428 View Post

I love the look of a whole cut dress shoe as it adds simplicity to elegance. However, I have personally steered clear of them due to my shoe size. I am 6'3" wearing a size 13 shoe. I've felt the the lack of lines can make your foot appear longer which is something I do not need. Does anyone know of a similar alternative with such a simple look?

My first choice would be a plain cap toe oxford in black.  Check the great thread here about them.

post #182 of 183
Thanks for the tip!
post #183 of 183
Originally Posted by Zapasman View Post

I figured out those could be made by you  ( think you posted them before and can see your hands at the toe).  I just own a pair of non seamless wholecut in dark brown that I bought long ago.  At the time I did not know about the existance (and difficulty of execution) of seamless wholecuts. Currently, everytime I hold the shoes on my hands and find the back seam I feel  kind of dissapointed. As said before the shoes are beautiful but  to me any introduction of small  variances compromises the essence of this model. So yes, feelings and tastes may change even in oneself. Would not mine to wear those at all but I would rather enjoy to commission from you a  black plain seamless wholecut or a pair of amazing black Georges boots.!!

No need to be disappointed. As a maker I am fascinated by the challenges inherent in a seamless whole cut, but functionally the seamless is no better than the backseamed whole cut. There are drawbacks, IOW.

When the leather is blocked over the last, there is considerable surplus--it is a flat piece of leather being shaped to a highly three dimensional form. Those pipes and "surplus army goods" have to be dealt with one way or the other. And, generally speaking, no matter how good the maker, they cannot always be pulled out (stretched) esp. in high quality leather.

The only alternative is to compress the surplus leather into smaller and smaller pipes and wrinkles until they are nearly unseen. Nearly...almost...but never entirely. Because even if perfectly eliminated the surplus is still the leather. Done correctly, this doesn't have to present a problem--that surplus is usually located primarily in the heel area, where it will be stabilized and bonded to the heel stiffener.

But potentially it could become a little "baggy." Just like the skin on old people's hands and faces--it can be chemically or even surgically tightened but the excess and looseness is still in there.
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