- Joined
- Mar 8, 2002
- Messages
- 57,568
- Reaction score
- 36,414
I thought it about time to post a new "Top 10 Jeans". Mauro, Brian and I had a top 20 jeans list planned, but as often happens when you try to make a good thing better, it ended up not ever being posted. This top ten list comes with the usual caveats. It does not represent the opinions other than my own, is not meant to be definitive, and I tried to put something there for everyone, which means that everyone will have some beef with it. I've not put the 5EPxSF jean in this list, because it is a limited edition jean, and because I had a hand in its coming into being. And, while all of the jeans here are raw or one wash, I also like distressed versions of several of these jeans, in particular the dark worn wash for the 5EP low down bootcut, and the washed versions of all the KMW jeans.)
Also, please feel free to add your own lists, or to amend mine.
With that in mind:
1. APC New Standards - I am not going to rehash why this jean is on the list, except to say that it represents the best price/quality ratio for a rather inexpensive jean. The red tinted denim is perhaps not as sophisticated as that of some of the other jeans on this list, but it is super durable. I have to admit that since I wrote my last list, I've found that the quality of the jeans has suffered somewhat. For example, the buttons are not are good quality on my latest pair as they were in 2002 (by far), nor even in 2005, and I've noticed more dropped and blown stitches then I had previously (and I've gone through many pairs of APC jeans). Available at Peasant (www.peasantonline.com ), Denim Bar ( www.denimbaronline.com ), Tobi ( www.tobi.com )
2. 5EP Low Down Bootcut in rigid - these days, bootcut gets a bad name. A retailer friend who owns a fashionable store told me just a week ago that anything with the term "bootcut" would sell about as well as Rosie's used panties. But this will pass, and people will, once again, recognize that a slight bootcut looks pretty darn good on most guys. Or at least, it will balance out their proportions and prevent them from looking like Tweedle-dee. The 5EP low down bootcut, which is really a medium rise jean, is the best of the bunch. The proprietary Japanese selvedge denim is extremely complex, with lots of green and yellow as well as purple undertones. The raw jeans (they also come in several washes) fade beautifully. The hardware is some of the best available, brass on steel shank buttons at the fly, and solid brass burrs. I also really like the blond leather patch with red stitching, which really stands out against the dark, slightly irregularly colored denim. At $250 retail, it is a great buy, surpassing every jean I've seen at that pricepoint, and many jeans in the $300+ category as well. (Available at Dresscodes in Atlanta www.dresscodesatl.com and Oak in Brooklyn www.oaknyc.com among other places.)
3. Somet 003 Straight Fit Indigo - A slim but not skinny jean. I like Somet jeans because they combine beautiful Japanese denim with a modern fit and clean details. I love the white back patch. I like very much the clean finish of these jeans. If these were not $285 stateside, they would easily be everyone's go to jean. Available at Blue in Green ( www.blueingreensoho.com )
4. Nom de Guerre Classic Fit - I am going to go out on a limb and call these the new new standard. They have a higher rise that can either be worn higher on the hips for a dressier look (though I think that dressing up jeans doesn't work for 99% of guys) or they can be slouched lower for a more relaxed look. They are also the rare pair of jeans with a wider hem that look pretty good with a little extra length on the inseam. The jeans are slim across the top block and slim but relaxed through the legs, and are flattering on smaller and on larger guys. The steel grey "UFO" rivets and complete lack of external branding give the jeans are very sleek look. The dark, slightly purple tint works with a lot of other colors. They come only in even sizes, which I am starting to appreciate. After all, jeans should be easy wearing. Who cares about getting a "perfect" fit. An easy fit is better (between $204 and $220, at Brigade ( www.brigadeshop.com ), Peasant ( www.peasantonline.com ) and Stels ( www.stelsinc.com )
5. Studio D'Artisan SD-103 - Some guys look great in "repro" jeans. Most guys look terrible. From my observation, this is because most of the guys who wear repro jeans do not really appreciate them for what they are. Unfortunately, the guy who is willing to spend $300 on a pair of jeans and the guy who looks good in repro jeans is typically not the same guy. The guy who spends $300 on a pair of jeans is generally an urbanite whose plaid shirt is more likely to be from Engineered Garments than from Rockmount, and whose Barracuta G9 is more likely to be the new slim fit than the original that James Dean wore. I admit to being that guy. That guy wants a lower rise and a slimmer fit than typically found on a pair of repro jeans. The Studio D'Artisan SD-103 is made with Studio D'Artisan's characteristically soft but durable RHT denim. The indigo is dark but still fairly bright, which is in keeping with the design, which nods to the classic Levis '47 fit and details (like hidden back rivets,) but makes concessions for the 2007 guy, with a lower rise, slimmer top block, and generally slimmer fit than the original. There are better "repro" jeans out there, and the design is not flawless (there are problems with the spacing of the buttons on the fly, for example) but if you are buying over the net, (which you are, unless you can easily get to NYC or Japan) the SDA SD-103 is your best bet for a good fit (available at Blue in Green, www.blueingreensoho.com )
6. Nudie Straight Sven - If you are not a hipster doofus, if you do not live in NYC or LA or San Francisco, if you are a regular guy who wants to look good but not too fashionable, I think that I would recommend you the Straight Sven. No one is going to describe it as skinny, but it is fitted enough up top that you look tidy, and there is enough room through the legs that you do not look like tweedle dumb if by chance your inseam is smaller than your waist size. You do not need to go through your wardrobe and make sure that all your tops are slim. They look really good with a light brown belt. They look good dark. And they will fade easily to a nice. Note to all who complain that their Nudies are ripping because they are playing soccer/basketball/judo in them. If you are going to make sudden movements in your jeans, make sure that they are reasonably loose and also, if they are raw jeans, broken in. Available at Denimbar ( www.denimbaronline.com ) and Selfedge ( www.selfedge.com )
7. Kicking Mule Workshop 1980 Raw - If you are a regular shaped guy who wants a pair of low rise jeans, slim jeans, but doesn't want to look like a fashion victim, you can hardly do better than the KMW 1980. Aside from being beautifully finished, they I also really like the oversized back pockets, which gives the jeans a bit more of a slouchy silhouette, and thus prevents the wearer from looking too much like Kevin Costner. The only thing that I am not a fan of is the red, white and blue selvedge, which, combined with the lighter toned denim, is a little too "USA, USA" for me. Luckily, Context ( www.contextclothing.com ) are coming up with a collaboration that should fix this for me. Also available at Denim Bar ( www.denimbaronline.com ) and Selfedge ( www.selfedge.com )
8. Atelier La Durance Prescott - I first saw Atelier La Durance (ALD) jeans in Madrid, of all places, which is a weird place to discover this brand, because Madrilenos in the summer of 2005 were in love with highly distressed jeans with lots of pockets, and manpris. The model I saw was the "Royale", which are very much "worker" style jeans - extremely full in the leg, with oversized pockets and reinforced stitching. The Prescott is much more wearable for a guy like me, i.e. regular sized, and not really into the super baggy jeans look, but with similar details, including pronounced heavy stitching and a roomier leg than most jeans on this list. I think that they are available in the states only at Context Clothing ( www.contextclothing.com )
9. Rag & Bone RB11 (raw or rinsed) - If someone really just wants one pair of jeans, I'd probably recommend that they get a pair of Rag&Bones. I like the RB11, even though it has suspender buttons, and I always wear a belt and never suspenders. The medium rise and regular, but slim, legs, combined with the distinctive but subtle, and somewhat dressy Rag&Bone details like the extended fly stitching and brushed cotton waistband, makes this jean a very good candidate for most versatile jean on the list. Available at many retailers, including Denim Bar ( www.denimbaronline.com ) and Jake ( www.shopjake.com )
10. Dior "Brut" jeans, 19 cm - There is no denying the impact of Dior Homme in setting the current trendy silhouette for jeans - slouched seat with slim legs. It's not a look that works for most people, but when it is done correctly (hint - do not size down) it can look really good. The details are obviously solid, with the buttonless, super clean waistband, the pleated seat that extends into the backpocket, and the slim, extremely long inseam. Available at frou frou luxury brand stores everywhere.
Also, please feel free to add your own lists, or to amend mine.
With that in mind:
1. APC New Standards - I am not going to rehash why this jean is on the list, except to say that it represents the best price/quality ratio for a rather inexpensive jean. The red tinted denim is perhaps not as sophisticated as that of some of the other jeans on this list, but it is super durable. I have to admit that since I wrote my last list, I've found that the quality of the jeans has suffered somewhat. For example, the buttons are not are good quality on my latest pair as they were in 2002 (by far), nor even in 2005, and I've noticed more dropped and blown stitches then I had previously (and I've gone through many pairs of APC jeans). Available at Peasant (www.peasantonline.com ), Denim Bar ( www.denimbaronline.com ), Tobi ( www.tobi.com )
2. 5EP Low Down Bootcut in rigid - these days, bootcut gets a bad name. A retailer friend who owns a fashionable store told me just a week ago that anything with the term "bootcut" would sell about as well as Rosie's used panties. But this will pass, and people will, once again, recognize that a slight bootcut looks pretty darn good on most guys. Or at least, it will balance out their proportions and prevent them from looking like Tweedle-dee. The 5EP low down bootcut, which is really a medium rise jean, is the best of the bunch. The proprietary Japanese selvedge denim is extremely complex, with lots of green and yellow as well as purple undertones. The raw jeans (they also come in several washes) fade beautifully. The hardware is some of the best available, brass on steel shank buttons at the fly, and solid brass burrs. I also really like the blond leather patch with red stitching, which really stands out against the dark, slightly irregularly colored denim. At $250 retail, it is a great buy, surpassing every jean I've seen at that pricepoint, and many jeans in the $300+ category as well. (Available at Dresscodes in Atlanta www.dresscodesatl.com and Oak in Brooklyn www.oaknyc.com among other places.)
3. Somet 003 Straight Fit Indigo - A slim but not skinny jean. I like Somet jeans because they combine beautiful Japanese denim with a modern fit and clean details. I love the white back patch. I like very much the clean finish of these jeans. If these were not $285 stateside, they would easily be everyone's go to jean. Available at Blue in Green ( www.blueingreensoho.com )
4. Nom de Guerre Classic Fit - I am going to go out on a limb and call these the new new standard. They have a higher rise that can either be worn higher on the hips for a dressier look (though I think that dressing up jeans doesn't work for 99% of guys) or they can be slouched lower for a more relaxed look. They are also the rare pair of jeans with a wider hem that look pretty good with a little extra length on the inseam. The jeans are slim across the top block and slim but relaxed through the legs, and are flattering on smaller and on larger guys. The steel grey "UFO" rivets and complete lack of external branding give the jeans are very sleek look. The dark, slightly purple tint works with a lot of other colors. They come only in even sizes, which I am starting to appreciate. After all, jeans should be easy wearing. Who cares about getting a "perfect" fit. An easy fit is better (between $204 and $220, at Brigade ( www.brigadeshop.com ), Peasant ( www.peasantonline.com ) and Stels ( www.stelsinc.com )
5. Studio D'Artisan SD-103 - Some guys look great in "repro" jeans. Most guys look terrible. From my observation, this is because most of the guys who wear repro jeans do not really appreciate them for what they are. Unfortunately, the guy who is willing to spend $300 on a pair of jeans and the guy who looks good in repro jeans is typically not the same guy. The guy who spends $300 on a pair of jeans is generally an urbanite whose plaid shirt is more likely to be from Engineered Garments than from Rockmount, and whose Barracuta G9 is more likely to be the new slim fit than the original that James Dean wore. I admit to being that guy. That guy wants a lower rise and a slimmer fit than typically found on a pair of repro jeans. The Studio D'Artisan SD-103 is made with Studio D'Artisan's characteristically soft but durable RHT denim. The indigo is dark but still fairly bright, which is in keeping with the design, which nods to the classic Levis '47 fit and details (like hidden back rivets,) but makes concessions for the 2007 guy, with a lower rise, slimmer top block, and generally slimmer fit than the original. There are better "repro" jeans out there, and the design is not flawless (there are problems with the spacing of the buttons on the fly, for example) but if you are buying over the net, (which you are, unless you can easily get to NYC or Japan) the SDA SD-103 is your best bet for a good fit (available at Blue in Green, www.blueingreensoho.com )
6. Nudie Straight Sven - If you are not a hipster doofus, if you do not live in NYC or LA or San Francisco, if you are a regular guy who wants to look good but not too fashionable, I think that I would recommend you the Straight Sven. No one is going to describe it as skinny, but it is fitted enough up top that you look tidy, and there is enough room through the legs that you do not look like tweedle dumb if by chance your inseam is smaller than your waist size. You do not need to go through your wardrobe and make sure that all your tops are slim. They look really good with a light brown belt. They look good dark. And they will fade easily to a nice. Note to all who complain that their Nudies are ripping because they are playing soccer/basketball/judo in them. If you are going to make sudden movements in your jeans, make sure that they are reasonably loose and also, if they are raw jeans, broken in. Available at Denimbar ( www.denimbaronline.com ) and Selfedge ( www.selfedge.com )
7. Kicking Mule Workshop 1980 Raw - If you are a regular shaped guy who wants a pair of low rise jeans, slim jeans, but doesn't want to look like a fashion victim, you can hardly do better than the KMW 1980. Aside from being beautifully finished, they I also really like the oversized back pockets, which gives the jeans a bit more of a slouchy silhouette, and thus prevents the wearer from looking too much like Kevin Costner. The only thing that I am not a fan of is the red, white and blue selvedge, which, combined with the lighter toned denim, is a little too "USA, USA" for me. Luckily, Context ( www.contextclothing.com ) are coming up with a collaboration that should fix this for me. Also available at Denim Bar ( www.denimbaronline.com ) and Selfedge ( www.selfedge.com )
8. Atelier La Durance Prescott - I first saw Atelier La Durance (ALD) jeans in Madrid, of all places, which is a weird place to discover this brand, because Madrilenos in the summer of 2005 were in love with highly distressed jeans with lots of pockets, and manpris. The model I saw was the "Royale", which are very much "worker" style jeans - extremely full in the leg, with oversized pockets and reinforced stitching. The Prescott is much more wearable for a guy like me, i.e. regular sized, and not really into the super baggy jeans look, but with similar details, including pronounced heavy stitching and a roomier leg than most jeans on this list. I think that they are available in the states only at Context Clothing ( www.contextclothing.com )
9. Rag & Bone RB11 (raw or rinsed) - If someone really just wants one pair of jeans, I'd probably recommend that they get a pair of Rag&Bones. I like the RB11, even though it has suspender buttons, and I always wear a belt and never suspenders. The medium rise and regular, but slim, legs, combined with the distinctive but subtle, and somewhat dressy Rag&Bone details like the extended fly stitching and brushed cotton waistband, makes this jean a very good candidate for most versatile jean on the list. Available at many retailers, including Denim Bar ( www.denimbaronline.com ) and Jake ( www.shopjake.com )
10. Dior "Brut" jeans, 19 cm - There is no denying the impact of Dior Homme in setting the current trendy silhouette for jeans - slouched seat with slim legs. It's not a look that works for most people, but when it is done correctly (hint - do not size down) it can look really good. The details are obviously solid, with the buttonless, super clean waistband, the pleated seat that extends into the backpocket, and the slim, extremely long inseam. Available at frou frou luxury brand stores everywhere.
