Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
Anything over 120 is bullshit, imo. Sounds like you're just trying to upsell.
Without arguing, i do not know if your message is trolling or on the contrary puts on evidence your totally lack of knowledge of the industry but just an attempt to attack me.
The Neapolitan shirtmakers have been using 170/2 and over way since those were on the market and as Riva, are way before i was born, same about other shirtmakers based in NYC.
I could have gone London or other world city since I am not Neapolitan but choose( and got the luck of being accepted as if a was a family member) to be here with what i consider are the best alive in the world.
Waste of time and energy to have people as that bullshiting a forum and trying to offend others. Well, people do not like the truth, and the quality, here another example.
Last, i do not get any cent charged to the fabrics. So i earn the same, only for doing a shirt, even i do a 100/2 that a 330 ( that sure exist but is not the ultimate) ( so again you are wrong on ; "Sounds like you're just trying to upsell"
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven
3 ply construction is quite rare.
Alumo makes triplo
years ago I had a pinpoint oxford from japan that was 3/120 x 2/80
odd construction , but it was durable yet softer.
i like 120/2 for a basic shirt.
I doubt Riva is finishing their fabrics with resins, to make the fabric slick feeling.
albini has a quality called Piuma it is a 70/1 compact yarn(very dense construction)
but it is finished with a lot of resin, I do not like it, but it is popular.
140/2-200/2 can be nice, but you lose longevity of the shirt with the finer yarns.
and the new compact yarn construction is prone to stretching in commercial laundries
So, as i knew the offender poster who i answered before got any idea about.
The only 3 ply fabric i have seen was that Alumo, never used it but a client of mine told me was poor to perspirate. Too dense.
I have also heard about 4 ply for wool, but never seen it. I have low knowledge about wool anyway.
The other came the Grandi & Rubinelli comercial visited us to bring us the new coffin ( 7 kilos, so bad for a trunk show taking it on a plane), it was different than the book i got personally on their factory a few years ago that is a document folder like. 2 or 3 kilos.
We curiously talked about Albini, as he worked there for years and agreed on what you and also me say, Albini ( Thomas Mason) fabrics feels as a plastic bag and are too compacted.
He told me " gum" ( used that word) was added on the finishing among tons of ammoniacal. I never thought " plastic" was used for real, only thought was a coincidence on the feeling, but i was wrong.
I never liked Albini/ Mason, jus like a few top line DJ Anderson that also are overpriced compared to similar( and better) products as Monti 170-200 etc.. There is another called Albini called Piumino 100 or 120 that imitates Alumo 120 but feels plasticon the contrary. Cost 10 euros less, so has a lot of commercial success around.
A customer who asks 200/2 fabrics do wash them by machine and with agressive detergent, and maybe even on driers, OMG? Then as you say, the shirt is not going to last. Is like washing a Maserati or similar on an automatic gas station wash, the paint is gonna be destroyed inmediately.
Albini agent ( not this, but an agent, as bad as most country agents are, those who got any idea but want an % added for doing nothing as resending an email order to the factory) asked for my private client list. Can you believe it? I said the spirit of Ronald Reagan and tomorrow comes the Sultan of Brunei, then denunced her to Albini headquarters for being against the basic ethic and law ( European Data Protection law) so i do not work with Albini. Anyway, only wanted the DJ Anderson book, but told me i should pay 750 for the full awful Mason books instead with 60 to 100 fabrics mainly, so told them i do not use them, no way.
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
Just because it isn't super smooth doesn't mean it is "poor". What is your criteria for "poor"? It seems like to you it means soft. To me those superfine cloths are
poor because they aren't durable in the least. Cheap cloth and shrinkage I don't think are necessarily correlated.
Poor not on the price cost, but poor on quality. Not soft related, is simply low to average quality, and not the fabric that should be used to do a tons of hours of work by hand. A 3 cilinder engine. Takes you back home, low gas consume, but is not anything that people desires to have ( or at least me) sure better than walking on a rainy day but i won't call them " bullshit" as you said about top fabrics.
Cheap cloth and shirkage are not necessariley correlated, sure, but sadly most of the cases are. Same as the most expensive shirting, DJ Anderson on this case, is not the best, as their agressive marketing says.