Agresvig
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- Joined
- Feb 22, 2015
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Gents,
I'll be getting married this summer and I'm deciding on where to by my new tux/dinner suit, which I've decided will be:
A single breasted, one button jacket in midnight blue color, with a shaw collar in a black (satin-silk?) finish. Matching pants with the classic black stripe.
So far I've boiled it down to two buying options, see title.
The Savile Row (type) tailor is the very nice owner of Taliare, "London’s newest tailoring house, offering a full bespoke and made-to-measure service in the finest tradition of Savile Row style and craftsmanship."
I have not previously purchased anything from them, but it has become my brother's go-to place for suits, jackets and shirts. He tells me the quality is fantastic for the money.
Taliare offers me a made-to-measure dinner suit as specified for around GBP 850, with a lead-time of 4-5 weeks. I think this sounds exceptionally cheap and quick, so much that it makes me skeptical to the craftsmanship and material involved. But again, my brother vouches for it.
The Tom Ford option is through a local reseller here in Norway. They offer a Made-to-order version of the O'Connor tux matching my specifications for the equivalent of GBP 2,750, with a lead-time of 10 weeks.
I went there the other day and looked at fabrics and options. They did not have a TF tux in my size in stock, but I tried a TF Suit and liked it very much. Especially the chest impressed me, the suit looked so flat and elegant with minimal "fuss" in the upper front area, and I hear these are among the details that make TF quality & look so remarkable.
Just to clarify: TF MTO means that they build you a suit as you specified, based on an existing model. But the sizes are RTW sizes that then gets tailored to me.
Now for the challenge
I have an athletic build, so for example for the TF suit I needed a 52 jacket size for a proper fit over the shoulders/chest, but a 50 or even slimmer for proper fit around the waistline and lower back. The arms would need extending too.
Moreover, I have very long legs, in jeans I wear typically a 32/33, or a 50 with "long" inseam. I have never found a jacket that fit me well off the rack, which is the reason I'm leaning towards MTM.
I like slim fit suits, with a very lean, italian cut. But the dinner suit is a classic attire, so I do not want to go overboard with the slimness. The O'Connor is slim but not too slim, I believe the legs for example are 20cm.
The questions
Besides the significantly slimmer wallet, what does the TF give me over the MTM option? Since I am very much in between sizes, I am worried that with the MTO TF I may be dropping close to 3K on something that is 90% and not 100%. If that's the case, its certainly not worth it to me. But then again, taking a 52 sz jacket down to be a 50 in the waist area is well within the boundaries of what's possible without adversely affecting the "look" of the jacket too much, right?
I can only assume that the MTM will fit me better, and to me fit trumps all other factors. For instance the weave of the cheaper may be of lesser quality than the MTO, but if the fit is better then it will still be a much better looking suit on me. Am I not right?
So in summary, is it so that a TF suit just looks so much better overall that (attention to detail, the cut, the material etc) a sub 1K MTM just cant touch it? Or am I better off getting a MTM that I hopefully know will fit me perfectly, and save the extra cash? I mean, I could get a tux and 3-4 sport coats at Tailare for the price of that TF...
All insight and advice is greatly appreciated!
I'll be getting married this summer and I'm deciding on where to by my new tux/dinner suit, which I've decided will be:
A single breasted, one button jacket in midnight blue color, with a shaw collar in a black (satin-silk?) finish. Matching pants with the classic black stripe.
So far I've boiled it down to two buying options, see title.
The Savile Row (type) tailor is the very nice owner of Taliare, "London’s newest tailoring house, offering a full bespoke and made-to-measure service in the finest tradition of Savile Row style and craftsmanship."
I have not previously purchased anything from them, but it has become my brother's go-to place for suits, jackets and shirts. He tells me the quality is fantastic for the money.
Taliare offers me a made-to-measure dinner suit as specified for around GBP 850, with a lead-time of 4-5 weeks. I think this sounds exceptionally cheap and quick, so much that it makes me skeptical to the craftsmanship and material involved. But again, my brother vouches for it.
The Tom Ford option is through a local reseller here in Norway. They offer a Made-to-order version of the O'Connor tux matching my specifications for the equivalent of GBP 2,750, with a lead-time of 10 weeks.
I went there the other day and looked at fabrics and options. They did not have a TF tux in my size in stock, but I tried a TF Suit and liked it very much. Especially the chest impressed me, the suit looked so flat and elegant with minimal "fuss" in the upper front area, and I hear these are among the details that make TF quality & look so remarkable.
Just to clarify: TF MTO means that they build you a suit as you specified, based on an existing model. But the sizes are RTW sizes that then gets tailored to me.
Now for the challenge
I have an athletic build, so for example for the TF suit I needed a 52 jacket size for a proper fit over the shoulders/chest, but a 50 or even slimmer for proper fit around the waistline and lower back. The arms would need extending too.
Moreover, I have very long legs, in jeans I wear typically a 32/33, or a 50 with "long" inseam. I have never found a jacket that fit me well off the rack, which is the reason I'm leaning towards MTM.
I like slim fit suits, with a very lean, italian cut. But the dinner suit is a classic attire, so I do not want to go overboard with the slimness. The O'Connor is slim but not too slim, I believe the legs for example are 20cm.
The questions
Besides the significantly slimmer wallet, what does the TF give me over the MTM option? Since I am very much in between sizes, I am worried that with the MTO TF I may be dropping close to 3K on something that is 90% and not 100%. If that's the case, its certainly not worth it to me. But then again, taking a 52 sz jacket down to be a 50 in the waist area is well within the boundaries of what's possible without adversely affecting the "look" of the jacket too much, right?
I can only assume that the MTM will fit me better, and to me fit trumps all other factors. For instance the weave of the cheaper may be of lesser quality than the MTO, but if the fit is better then it will still be a much better looking suit on me. Am I not right?
So in summary, is it so that a TF suit just looks so much better overall that (attention to detail, the cut, the material etc) a sub 1K MTM just cant touch it? Or am I better off getting a MTM that I hopefully know will fit me perfectly, and save the extra cash? I mean, I could get a tux and 3-4 sport coats at Tailare for the price of that TF...
All insight and advice is greatly appreciated!