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Shoe Antiquing - Page 21

post #301 of 309

Nice Job!

post #302 of 309
Quote:
Originally Posted by RIDER View Post


The process is basically correct, although there is no need to thin out Feibings. Also, the quality of the shoe will greatly influence the result - the better the shoe, the better the result - so keep in mind the process on a 'cheap' shoe (don't know what you are working on) will be the same but the result much different on, say, an EG.

Also, the amount of color you want to effect will depend on the creams you are using. Simply using various Feibings dye will not provide any sharp contrast in colors - when you apply another coat to an original, you are, in effect, reactivating the previous and blending it. You have to use a mixed process of dye and pigmented creams to get a result. If you are using the Saphir MDO creams, you will get a lot of pigment penetration.....others, not so much (including Blue Label Saphir).

It's been awhile since I have seen this thread come back up, so it might be worth mentioning that my original posts were fairly straight forward, dark to light same color refinishing. Now, there are so many people doing it, and taking it to another level of color mixtures, that the process I described usually won't give the same effect. The addition of fashion colors and blending them into the refinishing work is always achieved now by the use of the resin self shine creams and quick color liquids that used to be marketed only to shoe repair shops, but now can be found on-line. These products come in tons of colors, and are a neat way to make a unique look, if only used in small segments.

Hi Ron, 

 

Awesome thread - perfect work! 

This thread was the reason I subscribed to styleforum. 

 

I am about to start experimenting at an old (and cheap) pair of shoes using the method you described - in the beginning of this thread , using Feibings-dyes and Saphir-products. My target is to experiment on the cheap shoes before I do it on a more expensive pair. 

 

Do you think that nowdays there are other ways/methods that may have the same or similar result , using the quick color liquids? ... 

Do you have some products to suggest? 

 

Thank you in advance

Mike 

post #303 of 309
C&J for RL picked up on ebay for $135

before




after


post #304 of 309

very nice job!

post #305 of 309
No where near the level of some of you guys but my Rutledges were becoming a bit undefined so I worked with some black polish to bring back their original look a bit. In hind sight I wish I would've used the blue polish I have instead of the black but I'm happy with the results.

Original stock photo



Before




After






Next up, I think I'm going to mess around with my AE Strands. Any ideas?

post #306 of 309
Bumping an old thread. Hopefully someone i still reading this. When I dye to a specific color lets say I want a combination antiquing of navy blue and black. Do i start applying the darker one in this case black then slowly make my way up to navy blue or is it the other way around?
Edited by SimplyLime - 6/25/14 at 4:14am
post #307 of 309
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimplyLime View Post

Bumping an old thread. Hopefully someone i still reading this. When I dye to a specific color lets say I want a combination antiquing of navy blue and black. Do i start applying the darker one in this case black then slowly make my way up to navy blue or is it the other way around?

 

   it's the reverse.  lighter to darker always

post #308 of 309
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoGent View Post
 

 

   it's the reverse.  lighter to darker always

So if I started lets say from navy blue, wouldn't the last few coats of black cover up the navy blue?

 

EDIT: Can't ship dyes to CA? 

 

How the hell am I supposed to get one?


Edited by SimplyLime - 6/25/14 at 10:36am
post #309 of 309
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimplyLime View Post
 

So if I started lets say from navy blue, wouldn't the last few coats of black cover up the navy blue?

 

EDIT: Can't ship dyes to CA? 

 

How the hell am I supposed to get one?

   not sure about shipping to CA but try Saphir dyes from Ron Rider or Kirby @ The Hanger Project

   if you're trying to darken a true navy blue as opposed to Gaziano's Midnight Blue you can layer

   Salphir blue over existing blue without darkening it that much & can follow that with black polish instead of dye

   which I would recommend anyway . . . . the reason is, it provides a smoother coloring & finish

 

   you can also regulate the depth of color by letting it dry for 10 - 15 minutes then rub it down to remove

   some of it so you can take it where you want in steps which I think is better anyway . . . . gives you more control that way

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