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Some Pics of Saint Crispin's Shoes - Page 7

post #91 of 159
just wondering why do SC wood peg the waist but hand welt the front????
post #92 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post

just wondering why do SC wood peg the waist but hand welt the front????



Was informed by Mr Car that the wooden pegs are used as it gives more strength to the waist of the shoe.

700

Check out this pic for their Pret customized line. Not sure what the upcharge would be (if any)

700
post #93 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post

just wondering why do SC wood peg the waist but hand welt the front????

I've probably wooden pegged more waists (and foreparts) in my career than even the pegged shoe disciples have seen in their entire lives. I like and admire pegging as a technique. I have shoes and boots that are pegged both in the waist and as the only means of attachment (full pegged).

But while pegging will stiffen the waist, it will not measurably strengthen it.

More, pegging damages the insole in a way that welting will not. Welt can be taken out and replaced/repaired almost indefinitely. Three or four resoles using pegs and the insole is Swiss cheese.
Edited by DWFII - 9/7/11 at 5:56pm
post #94 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post

just wondering why do SC wood peg the waist but hand welt the front????

not really?
post #95 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


I've probably wooden pegged more waists (and foreparts) in my career than even the pegged shoe groupies have seen in their entire lives. I like and admire pegging as a technique. I have shoes and boots that are pegged both in the waist and as the only means of attachment (full pegged).

But while pegging will stiffen the waist, it will not measurably strengthen it.

More, pegging damages the insole in a way that welting will not. Welt can be taken out and replaced/repaired almost indefinitely. Three or four resoles using pegs and the insole is Swiss cheese.

Semantics here, but to make it stiffer makes it stronger?
post #96 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by HORNS View Post


Semantics here, but to make it stiffer makes it stronger?

No. Nothing to do with semantics...simply definitions--meanings of words.

"Stiffness" refers to flexibility. "Strength" refers to resistance to tearing, breaking, falling apart.

Wood, for instance, can be stiff but brittle and break easily. The willow versus the oak.

I'm sure you can think of multiple other examples.

Leather is generally regarded as flexible but strong.

Putting multiple holes in leather, however...even if you fill them with hard rock maple (once upon a time the gold standard for a premium peg)...reduces its strength.
post #97 of 159
There are no shoes for sale here. Saint Crispins are available from http://leathersoulhawaii.com
post #98 of 159
double post
post #99 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLKY View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post

just wondering why do SC wood peg the waist but hand welt the front????



Was informed by Mr Car that the wooden pegs are used as it gives more strength to the waist of the shoe.

700

Check out this pic for their Pret customized line. Not sure what the upcharge would be (if any)

700
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post

just wondering why do SC wood peg the waist but hand welt the front????

I've probably wooden pegged more waists (and foreparts) in my career than even the pegged shoe disciples have seen in their entire lives. I like and admire pegging as a technique. I have shoes and boots that are pegged both in the waist and as the only means of attachment (full pegged).

But while pegging will stiffen the waist, it will not measurably strengthen it.

More, pegging damages the insole in a way that welting will not. Welt can be taken out and replaced/repaired almost indefinitely. Three or four resoles using pegs and the insole is Swiss cheese.

thanks, so which would last longer the SC or normal gemmed GYW???
post #100 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post

just wondering why do SC wood peg the waist but hand welt the front????

not really?

what do you mean big guy??
post #101 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post


thanks, so which would last longer the SC or normal gemmed GYW???

Depends on how it was treated post-making. If a GYwelted shoe is always recrafted, obviously it will last longer. The insole, the gemming, the welting are all being replaced with every resole.

If it is simply being resoled, even at a competent shoe repair shop, the gemming will sometimes quickly, sometimes slowly, get displaced from its original position and/or simultaneously degrade.

If a pegged shoe or boot is resoled over and over again, it will not last long. Even with an insole replacement because the pegs are perforating the upper as well--where it is pulled over the insole. How do you replace that margin?

If the pegged shoe is worn infrequently, or in the case of a pegged waist, only a half sole is done, it is inherently a stronger construction technique.

But neither technique can hold a candle to handwelting for flexibility, strength and repair-ability. I suspect that's why, over the centuries and with all these different techniques evolving and competing for preeminence, handwelting is still the gold standard.
post #102 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


No. Nothing to do with semantics...simply definitions--meanings of words.

"Stiffness" refers to flexibility. "Strength" refers to resistance to tearing, breaking, falling apart.

Wood, for instance, can be stiff but brittle and break easily. The willow versus the oak.

I'm sure you can think of multiple other examples.

Leather is generally regarded as flexible but strong.

Putting multiple holes in leather, however...even if you fill them with hard rock maple (once upon a time the gold standard for a premium peg)...reduces its strength.

O.K., thanks for clarifying.
post #103 of 159
Those shoes are gorgeous. I'm definitely going to look into getting a pair.
post #104 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post


what do you mean big guy??

i mean this has been discussed before?

i first saw it on a pair of italian made shoes for iammatt.
post #105 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post


what do you mean big guy??

i mean this has been discussed before?

i first saw it on a pair of italian made shoes for iammatt.

really - i might have missed that, sorry frown.gif
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