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Eat. Bespoke. Love (my Italian trip report) - Page 13

post #181 of 221
Here is the suit from an angle similar to the single breasted. The sleeves are obviously fine.


post #182 of 221
And what about these messy sleeves. Are these bad tailoring?



post #183 of 221
Hi Carpu,

Glad you follow my blog ūüėú
Quote:
Originally Posted by carpu65 View Post

To help the discussion,.....
....

Gianni Volpe double breasted:




post #184 of 221

Hello Marco,i'm a fan of your blog.

Fantastic the picture of your grandfather with his friends (is possible a better scan?).

Those Neapolitan  double breasted suits of 40s are very modern in cut !!!

And i agree with you,Schiraldi (the volpe's maestro) was a great tailor; his style like me much more that Attolini's cut.

post #185 of 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by carpu65 View Post

Hello Marco,i'm a fan of your blog.
Fantastic the picture of your grandfather with his friends (is possible a better scan?).
Those Neapolitan  double breasted suits of 40s are very modern in cut !!!
And i agree with you,Schiraldi (the volpe's maestro) was a great tailor; his style like me much more that Attolini's cut.
Thanks,

That picture (with his two younger brothers) is unfortunately the only scan I have. It came from one of my uncle like that, but I have similar ones that i have scanned myself and I will soon post
post #186 of 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stugotes View Post

Everything "Gianni Cerruti" endorses automatically seems suspicious.

Do you mean this Gianni, who'sposting with the OP?
https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s640x640/sh0.08/e35/12424593_980914291984272_1487296511_n.jpg?ig_cache_key=MTE2MjI2OTU3MzM0NjIxOTE4Ng%3D%3D.2\

Btw, will you be stocking Pirozzi in your new shop in Shanghai, Weak Monday?
post #187 of 221
Who'sedit: never mind. I remember.
post #188 of 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Here is the suit from an angle similar to the single breasted. The sleeves are obviously fine.


 

 

 Obviously fine? If you do think so, is obvious I am losing my time here or I am victim of deep trolling.

 

Also putting as example a picture of Ciro Paone on wheelchair since he suffered an ictus and he is forced to wear opened a DB suit that who knows when was it made (sure not bespoked to his sad actual condition), and I find of  the worse taste and disgusting to expose a handicaped person as disgusting is to read pushes and defense of the worse possible ill tailoring.

 

But you are right on a single thing, the second pic is not a proper jacket ¬†FOR MODERN STANDARDS, BUT as it seems to come from the 80¬īs, that was the wide style of the late 80 and 90s, and today, we are not on the 90s to wear that exact style you pointed out AS BAD on Paone ¬†BUT GOOD on actual Pirozzi suits, how is that? ¬†so I am sorry to say, you bited your own trap or you are trolling this thread or as it seems.

 

As I said when this was posted, how is that a bespoke trouser is not properly hemmed and as the other I said the same, got bad ¬†diminishing proportions and the ‚Äútailor‚ÄĚ is there happy? ( Happy to have received the cash I assume) That trouser looks and fits as an Adidas gym one.

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Verrihappy View Post


Do you mean this Gianni, who'sposting with the OP?
https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s640x640/sh0.08/e35/12424593_980914291984272_1487296511_n.jpg?ig_cache_key=MTE2MjI2OTU3MzM0NjIxOTE4Ng%3D%3D.2\

Btw, will you be stocking Pirozzi in your new shop in Shanghai, Weak Monday?

 

 

 

BTW, the Pirozzi red jacket the other guy is wearing has a gaped collar on the front and wrinkles on the waist, looks a rtw Hugo Boss, is badspoke.

 

I upload the pic, name of the film, two shills one destiny? Those could find at least a proper tailor and spread good tailoring instead.  Got no time for this dumb threads, sorry.  

 

At least thanks to this thread I could see beautiful pics as a Lindbergh watch similar to one I was forced to sell, and other nice to see pics.


Edited by SartodiNapoli - 2/18/16 at 4:42pm
post #189 of 221

Maybe the key is this:

 

Quote:

 

 

 

Now some pictures from the 14th and 15th...

 

 

January 14th


Handing the maestro my Solaro

 

 

 

Trying to show him on the phone the kind of the look I'm going for (spalla piu larghe, spalla morbida, spalla rotunda, SPALLA LIKE-A TAKA)... :embar:

 

 

 

January 15th

 

Measurements

 

Cutting

 

 

 

 

 

 

After two hours...

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by WeakMonday View Post
 

Mimmo Pirozzi (continued)

 

January 17th-

Second Fitting

 

Third Fitting (Just Jacket)

 

 

January 20th (Finished)

 

 

January 14th,the making of the suit is start.

After only two hours the suit was cut and sewing with the sleeves on.

January 17th,second and third fitting,

January 20th,the suit is finished.

Only six days (but the suit was almost finished two hours later first cut on the fabric).

Maybe is for this that the shoulders have some problems.

Bespoke is not MTM.

I'm sure that with more time and a more connoisseur cutomer to drive the tailor,some defects could be avoided.

Some Italian tailors have a vice: if they realize that the customer has not experienced and is easily satisfied,they not apply for a perfect work.

The motto of many great tailors is"Io voglio il cliente che ne capisce,alla mia altezza,se no,non vale lo sforzo...tanto quello è contento lo stesso" (" I want the connoisseur,the customer at my height,if not,not worth the effort...so he is happy all the same").

Is a bad thing,i know,but sometimes happens.

post #190 of 221

@ Carpu

 

to avoid quotting and repeating all those horrible pics.

 

 

January 14th,the making of the suit is start.

After only two hours the suit was cut and sewing with the sleeves on.

January 17th,second and third fitting,

January 20th,the suit is finished.

Only six days (but the suit was almost finished two hours later first cut on the fabric).

Maybe is for this that the shoulders have some problems.

Bespoke is not MTM.

I'm sure that with more time and a more connoisseur cutomer to drive the tailor,some defects could be avoided.

Some Italian tailors have a vice: if they realize that the customer has not experienced and is easily satisfied,they not apply for a perfect work.

The motto of many great tailors is"Io voglio il cliente che ne capisce,alla mia altezza,se no,non vale lo sforzo...tanto quello è contento lo stesso" (" I want the connoisseur,the customer at my height,if not,not worth the effort...so he is happy all the same").

Is a bad thing,i know,but sometimes happens.

 

 

 

me;

 

 

 

What I said, fresh and fast cash from a  clueless tourist.

 

Nothing else.

 

Apart, is quite impossible to mount the structure for a fit on 2 hours, at least 1 day has happened.

post #191 of 221
Thread Starter 
You could probably nitpick any suit to death. The thing that i look for is divots. Fortunately I havent had to deal with that issue in a foreign language. Unfortunately traveling to Italy to get suits made doesnt give the possibility to have the endless fittings that the locals could get. This is the reality with traveling tailors too. As for chasing perfection... I leave that to the tailors. The photos i leave to you guys unedited and unfiltered so you can make your own decisions.

The Suit Scientist/Philosopher/Shill
post #192 of 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by SartodiNapoli View Post

 

 

Apart, is quite impossible to mount the structure for a fit on 2 hours, at least 1 day has happened.


Sarto,

One and only one question.

If you went to Pirozzi,would be able to obtain a good suit?

In other words,is about the tailor or is about the customer?

 
 
 
 
post #193 of 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by carpu65 View Post
 


Sarto,

One and only one question.

If you went to Pirozzi,would be able to obtain a good suit?

In other words,is about the tailor or is about the customer?

 
 
 
 

 

I would never, never go to Pirozzi as well to any Madrid tailoring. All those are just the opossite to what I consider good tailoring or even tailoring in most of the cases.

 

Also, why is that the other I can¬īt name, the one who shilled the OP to him, also always gets awful suits?

 

Already got a poor experience with other like this, Orazio, who was kicked out of Kiton decades ago by things I can¬īt publish that you might know. He even denied to fix his own mess.

 

Even professionals of the same street do say Pirozzi is a parody of himself nowadays and tell me a lot of jokes I can¬īt publish, the same jokes as well about Luca Rubinacci who peackocks a couple of street blocks close.

 

Answering you, is about smartalecks that believe are tailors. You know it better than me for your long time on this.

post #194 of 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by WeakMonday View Post

You could probably nitpick any suit to death. The thing that i look for is divots. Fortunately I havent had to deal with that issue in a foreign language. Unfortunately traveling to Italy to get suits made doesnt give the possibility to have the endless fittings that the locals could get. This is the reality with traveling tailors too. As for chasing perfection... I leave that to the tailors. The photos i leave to you guys unedited and unfiltered so you can make your own decisions.

The Suit Scientist/Philosopher/Shill

 

I have to admit. Sartodi does have a great point. The sleeves are obviously poorly fitted - no matter how you cut it. It is not about style but fit. Fit isn't a fad- it is timeless.

post #195 of 221
How are the sleeves a bad fit?
Things can never look like a mannequin once the arm is moving...
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