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Getting Older- but Still want Quality Selvedge denim: reccommendations?

kbuzz

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Hello all, ive been out of the loop for a while so i would appreciate any recommendations for quality denim for someone hitting 50.
In other words, no super skinny, but not sloppy grampa super hi waist either. I have some experience with decent denim and in the past decade but nothing i could really get to fit well except a pair of raw 1955 LVCs (until wife accidentally washed em) For example, I had 45 rpm which had insane quality, but the the cut was a bit too boxy. Wore and like both 5EP, APC NS but both were a bit too low rise and uncomforatable for more then a few hours. Tried some sugar cane 47s but they were too tight in the waist, flared out in the hips like grampa, and too big in the legs.

I thought id just go into Self edge or Blue in Green but honestly, i forgot how complicated things get with rise, shrinking stretching again etc. and frankly, as you can see form above, the ""recommendations" I received in store in the past was sub par and did not pan out long term fit wize. Id love to support any of the newer domestic manufacturers but right now fit is most important

Off the top of my head, I was thinking about a pair of "straight" cut from a few brands, but don't know if these skew too way too young or not:

Momotaro Jeans
Pure Blue
Unbranded?
3 x1 (Cost?)
Jean Shop
Tellison
Raleigh
Left Field

Thanks again for any thoughts or recomendations, so long as they dont have fancy pocket stictihing or boot cut im open to suggestions

 

elimmie

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3sixteen SL100x - perfect and sophisticated fit!
 

kbuzz

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I tried a pair, they had the best denim ive ever seen, but the ones that were about $300 as opposed to $600 were tight in the top block and too wide in the leg....maybe i ll take another look. Any specific model you are referring to?

Thanks for the reply
 

dieworkwear

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It sounds like you have a lot of experience with brands and already know what you liked/ didn't like. You can try using Rawr Denim's jean finder, which can be helpful if you know what kind of measurements you're looking for

http://scout.rawrdenim.com/denim

Self Edge has something similar, but only for jeans they carry

http://selfedge.com/

For what it's worth, I'm guy in his mid-30s and I wear 3sixteen SL-100s, Stevenson & Co's 767, and The Flat Head's 3009. They all fit kind of the same -- very roughly speaking -- but the 3sixteens are the slimmest of the three.

Also, @pocketsquareguy is an older member with a lot of experience with denim. He might be able to suggest something.
 
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SixOhNine

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Iron Heart 1955 model is pretty close to the LVC 1955 that you said you liked.
 

gaseousclay

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I don't own these brands but these are on my to-buy list:

- 3sixteen SL-120X Shadow Selvedge

- Rogue Territory Stanton

My current selvedge jeans are by Uniqlo (in the regular fit). I found the fit to be great....not too skinny and not too baggy. They're raw and they seem to use vanity sizing. I bought 4 pairs of the 34"x32" and they fit perfectly. My true waist measures about 35.5". My understanding is that the Uniqlo's are sanforized so i'm not sure how much shrinkage will occur. They aren't US made but for $50 they're a good brand to check out. The only downside with Uniqlo selvedge is there's no leather patch on the back and it's a zipper fly.
 

gravitas1

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@kbuzz i am referring to the hikohime. the 34.5 waist has a hem of just below 8" on them, which is almost slim for me. slim for me is 7.75 and straight is just a quarter inch at 8". i am 6'1/2 and fluctuate between 180-190. when measured, my waist is 35, but the denim should expand enough within a few wears.
 
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JonnyD2128

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Stevenson Overall La Jolla 727's. Slim but not tight, awesome details, just check out the back pockets.
 

Gus

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Purchasing high quality raw Japanese and American denim can be a challenge. If you ever plan to wash them it can be an expensive guessing game about fit. In addition, a number of the historically accurate Japanese made retro models of US denim have, by todays standards very full legs or full "duck butt" seats.

My suggestion is to get a pair of Levis LVC rinsed 1947's. That way they are pre-shrunk so you know how they will fit. The 1947 has a classic somewhat fitted seat and slightly trim straight leg. Avoid the raw 1947 and you won't have to do the "soak and hope" fit. If you can't try them on in a store I would order two pairs one in your usual size and then one size smaller and return one of them. I am an actual size 35W with a tailors tape and wear a 34w or 33W in the pre-rinsed. http://www.mrporter.com/en-us/mens/...insed-regular-fit-selvedge-denim-jeans/379246

If you are in NYC and can go to Blue in Green, ask them for pre-washed or rinsed models of the trimmer cuts. They will have several.

I've also had a very good experience with the sanforized LVC 551 ZXX. This is the zipper model with a nice tailored leg and comfortable fitting top block. I had almost no shrinkage in the waist and about an inch in length with the raw sanforized model.

I get asked a lot by guys what jean I'm wearing with both the 47" 501XX and 551ZXX. The fit is ideal for a guy who wants to avoid skinny or loose fits and likes to pair his jeans with a tailored jacket.

With all of my jeans I wash them in cold water every 5-7 wears and hang to dry.
 

notwithit

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I'm gonna offer a counterpoint to psg's post and say that I don't think LVCs go well with a tailored jacket. The arcs and tab on the back pockets - and to a lesser extent, the amount of white weft showing through the warp - make them more suitable for a work jacket, chunky cardigan, or maybe a really casual jacket like some of the offerings from RRL or Engineered Garments. If you want to wear a more traditional tailored odd jacket, I'd opt for something with plain pockets, tonal stitching, and maybe a tighter weave for a more saturated indigo tone.
 

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