Newc's Bespoke Adventure.

Flake · Mar 6, 2018

Eidos. Cool. Have you met Antonio? I used to work with his brother. You would find him interesting, Newc.

lordsuperb · Mar 6, 2018

Newcomer said:
I'll say this, @lordsuperb, I am contemplating picking that suit up.

Truth be told I like the eidos suits more than I like your despos suits :confused2:

.

jonathanS · Mar 6, 2018

lordsuperb said:
Truth be told I like the eidos suits more than I like your despos suits .

Perhaps Neapolitan cut vs despos?

Newcomer · Mar 6, 2018

I don't think you are the only one that has expressed that sentiment, LS - however, that is likely an issue of style more than anything. Personally, I prefer my stuff from Chris by a large margin, but there is room in my closet for both.

As I have previously indicated, my stuff from Chris moves a lot better than my stuff from Eidos, which photographs better than it performs. That is not to say it performs poorly by any means, but just the difference between bespoke and RTW.

At the end of the day, the two are miles apart stylistically - so I think it is natural to prefer one over the other without considering fit. Moreover, I think you are probably more drawn to the fabrics that I have with Eidos.

I haven't met Antonio, I enjoyed the podcast on Blamo! though.

OscarO · May 24, 2018

Just finished reading this entire thread, and it is really very interesting to follow. I like your rust sc the best, both for fit and style and quite like the suppression not being overly exaggerated. The sharkskin suit is a nice staple and tuxedo looks great as well even though I would have gone for a slightly higher gorge.
As you apparently work in suits, why are you not commissioning more suits? I only ask because I am the same, I work in suits but much prefer buying sc, linen, tweed etc which is not wearable at my office.

Newcomer · May 24, 2018

OscarO said:
Just finished reading this entire thread, and it is really very interesting to follow. I like your rust sc the best, both for fit and style and quite like the suppression not being overly exaggerated. The sharkskin suit is a nice staple and tuxedo looks great as well even though I would have gone for a slightly higher gorge.

As you apparently work in suits, why are you not commissioning more suits? I only ask because I am the same, I work in suits but much prefer buying sc, linen, tweed etc which is not wearable at my office.

My Rust SC is still my favorite order as well, although my tuxedo is right up there with it. I like the overall softness of the Rust SC, it is a bit more rounded, which is more my style.

And to turn to your question: I recently placed two orders, and both are suits. I kind of wanted to test the waters a bit, but now I am back to ordering basics.

Frankly, when it comes to my bespoke orders, they get wear, but I am more interested in them for the long haul (i.e., over the next 10, 20 years). I wear my sharkskin suit in court, when I am interfacing with clients, and to special events. I do not believe I will ever get to the point where I am wearing bespoke on one of those days where I am not seeing clients, I am working at a desk for 12+ hours, I eat at my desk, etc., because I burn through my "daily wearers." I have been replacing my SuSu suits every other year. Stated otherwise, although I work in suits, and wear my bespoke orders in connection with work, they are a bit too "precious" - at least to me, given the cost - to be subjected to once-a-week duty. And I do not have the funds to order, say, 5 suits a year, to get to the point where all I wear is bespoke.

OscarO · May 24, 2018

Newcomer said:
My Rust SC is still my favorite order as well, although my tuxedo is right up there with it. I like the overall softness of the Rust SC, it is a bit more rounded, which is more my style.

And to turn to your question: I recently placed two orders, and both are suits. I kind of wanted to test the waters a bit, but now I am back to ordering basics.

Frankly, when it comes to my bespoke orders, they get wear, but I am more interested in them for the long haul (i.e., over the next 10, 20 years). I wear my sharkskin suit in court, when I am interfacing with clients, and to special events. I do not believe I will ever get to the point where I am wearing bespoke on one of those days where I am not seeing clients, I am working at a desk for 12+ hours, I eat at my desk, etc., because I burn through my "daily wearers." I have been replacing my SuSu suits every other year. Stated otherwise, although I work in suits, and wear my bespoke orders in connection with work, they are a bit too "precious" - at least to me, given the cost - to be subjected to once-a-week duty. And I do not have the funds to order, say, 5 suits a year, to get to the point where all I wear is bespoke.

Okay I understand, it is a truly interesting and fun thing building a long term wardrobe especially when the options are so open as they are in bespoke. Small tweaks here and there and always improving but never perfecting, sort of like chasing the dragon, but a much healthier obsession

One thing I can’t understand is why you would have to replace them every other year unless quality is poor or you aren’t rotating enough. I don’t have enough years on any of my bespoke clothes to comment on longevity on my part, but my father still has and wears his suits commissioned in the 90’s, though he rotated a lot and probably wears the same suit twice a month.
My tailor always asks me what the purpose is the suit is and how it will be worn, and then the fabric recommendations are in line with that. A wsl blend will never hold in the long term is you use it frequently, but certainly there are lots of fabrics that easily hold up to the normal wear and tear of office life.
Anyhow, good look on your future sartorial journey and will be following to see the recent suits you’ve commissioned.

lordsuperb · Jul 16, 2018

@Newcomer do you know anything about this fellow?

https://www.sartoriajensen.com

A tailor is a lover of the process, with a passion for the beauty of the construction, with an endless strive for perfection through the work of the hand. Eric Jensen followed his passion to learn the old world tradition of bespoke tailoring, by attending a prestigious school under a celebrated Roman maestro, Luigi Gallo in 2009. At his school, Camera Europea Dell’alta Sartoria, Eric learned the methods of his craft, through the art of making suits completely by hand. Only 4-6 students from around the world are accepted each year, and training is done in the purest form of the craft - from creating the client’s unique pattern and molding canvas to the specific shapes of the client’s body, to fitting the client by watching their personal mannerisms, posture, and unique body structure. Eric graduated from La Camera, receiving his Master Tailor certificate, and spent 4 additional years as apprentice to tailor Chris Despos in Chicago. Now located in New York, Eric continues the Bespoke tradition.

Newcomer · Jul 16, 2018

lordsuperb said:
@Newcomer do you know anything about this fellow?

https://www.sartoriajensen.com

A tailor is a lover of the process, with a passion for the beauty of the construction, with an endless strive for perfection through the work of the hand. Eric Jensen followed his passion to learn the old world tradition of bespoke tailoring, by attending a prestigious school under a celebrated Roman maestro, Luigi Gallo in 2009. At his school, Camera Europea Dell’alta Sartoria, Eric learned the methods of his craft, through the art of making suits completely by hand. Only 4-6 students from around the world are accepted each year, and training is done in the purest form of the craft - from creating the client’s unique pattern and molding canvas to the specific shapes of the client’s body, to fitting the client by watching their personal mannerisms, posture, and unique body structure. Eric graduated from La Camera, receiving his Master Tailor certificate, and spent 4 additional years as apprentice to tailor Chris Despos in Chicago. Now located in New York, Eric continues the Bespoke tradition.

@lordsuperb - yes, he was with Chris during one or two of my fittings - specifically, the tuxedo. From my sparse interactions with Eric, he seemed like a pleasant fellow. We talked about food, primarily. Aside from those interactions, however, I am not overly familiar with him.

Patrick R · Jul 16, 2018

I met Eric a handful of times and he worked on at least 2 or 3 of my pieces. The only thing I remember distinctly about his specific work was how proud he and Chris were of the work he did on one of my lapel buttonholes.

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