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The Bespoke Shoes Thread - Page 32

post #466 of 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

14 months with G&G? Was it Daniel Wegan who was fitting you? For me, the process was different with Tony and Dean.

All of them. Started with dean, then Daniel remade the last, then tony tried to fix it.
post #467 of 625

Ouch.  That sounds painful.

 

I got measured and fitted by Dean for bespoke. Previously measured by Tony to determine my RTW sizing.

 

Never get the chance to meet Daniel; don't think he travels to SF?

post #468 of 625
As I am thinking about the pro & cons of supplying my chosen leather to my shoemaker (makes shoes in his spare time and only access to stock supplied to the factories where he work in the morning), I would like to get yourvfeedback on the following:
What are the drawbacks of choosing a chrome tanned with wax burnishable finish leather (like Annonay’s VEGANO BURNISHING CALF) to be hand-coloured to the desired shade vs. using a virtually finished product (like Annonay’s VOCALOU ANILINE CALF)? Obviously for me there will be the benefit of getting various different coloured pairs of shoes from one skin (25 - 30 Sq.Ft²). I am thinking 3/4 pairs, possibly 5 with one pair of spectator

Similarly about ordering CF Stead PURE WHITE SUEDE (12 - 15 Sq.Ft²) and colouring it to the desired finished colour vs ordering Reverse suede calf already in the finished colour/shade. Here I am particularly concerned about the hand colouring impact with the tannery “hairy” finish of the suede, as well as that the smaller skin sizes in which Suede is offered (like WEINHEIMER BOX CALF) would only be enough for a pair of shoes (possibly three with a spectator).
Edited by marcodalondra - 3/22/16 at 7:51am
post #469 of 625
I personally have no experience with dying/patina on leathers.

Some people have had very good experiences using the Saphir range of leather dyes. Over the weekend, I saw my shoemaker who has only recently started experimenting with the stuff and has come up with quite impressive results. So impressive, that I'm about to invest in a few bottles, and will be playing with it as well.

As far as I know, the 'burnishing calf' is a crust while the 'aniline calf' is a fully finished leather. I believe they both take on the dye very well, but with the crust you might not need the de-glazer to prepare the leather for the dye. Make up your own mind what works better. Try to get from Crack some reasonable sized samples (not the usual postage stamps) and start playing.

Whether suede takes on the dye well without getting hard, you'll have to find out.I might have my doubts whether the 'pure white suede' (used for traditional spectators ) is ideal for the intended colouring. I presume the leather is not only bleached but also powdered with chalk to give that Persil whiteness.

As I said, I'm about to get some colours and see how I get on with the stuff. In a few weeks, I should know more and might have found out what works for me.
post #470 of 625
Vocalou probably takes the dye better than a burnishing leather like the Vegano in my experience - burnishing leather won't necessarily be good for hand colouring. The wax in the finish can react with the dyes and go unexpected shades of green.

I'm a big fan of Vocalou aniline, does everything well, is strong, supple in wear, good weight, consistent, takes dyes very well, holds its polish well. Burnishing calls can be easier to shine, but usually lose their lustre just as quickly in wear so take a lot of maintenance. I'm not particularly fond of burnishing or crust leathers for footwear, personally.

As for your patent question, you'd be extremely lucky to find any of the old oiled patent now. If you were looking for some today I'd imagine Crack would be the first port of call, they stock a wide range of colours. The quality of the leather itself is almost secondary when it comes to patent, as it's all covered with a very forgiving laminate. If you can find any old stock baby calf patent then that's a good shout, less chance of damage in the making - patent's surface can crack during making which is rather annoying.
post #471 of 625
AFAIK, pure white leather of any sort is a whole 'nuther ball game. The white is based on metallic salts (?) and will never take the dye. It cannot be changed. IOW.

Also, when dyeing something like suede, I'd be cautious without a mordant. Excess dyestuff have a tendency to bleed out...or even just rub out...and stain trousers, etc..
post #472 of 625

My experience with fit with Koji Suzuki was extremely positive. 

 

At the trial stage the shoe was just a little tight across the vamp...otherwise near perfect. Trial took all of 5-10 minutes between my wearing and him looking to see about adjustments. He made the necessary adjustments and the completed product fits amazing. It took just a few wearings for the shoes to really break in and conform to my foot. 

 

They are by far the most comfortable shoes I own. 

post #473 of 625
@bengal-stripe @ntempleman @DWFII thanks very much for your input.

Nicholas, I would agree that the Vocalou looks great, but was not sure about the dying properties. Would you say that if I take the lightest of the Browns I can then obtain various darker shades, including a brown/green shade? The problem is that unless I get to use the whole skin, self supplying the leather becomes an economic challange.

Also, the old stock baby calf patent you are referring to at the end of your message, would that still be with a synthetic finish but more flexible or would it be the real deal? You won't happen to have a skin somewhere, would you?
Edited by marcodalondra - 3/22/16 at 1:45pm
post #474 of 625
There's a pair of brown oxfords that I'm pretty sure I put up on my website, with a sort of antiqued/museum finish. Those were made from the lightest offering of Vocalou, as well as the button shoe sample - exact same hide.

I'm not sure what a sua yetis finish is, but you can tell a baby calf from the size generally. I've got a couple of old skins in stock which I'm clinging onto for dear life.
post #475 of 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

There's a pair of brown oxfords that I'm pretty sure I put up on my website, with a sort of antiqued/museum finish. Those were made from the lightest offering of Vocalou, as well as the button shoe sample - exact same hide.

I'm not sure what a sua yetis finish is, but you can tell a baby calf from the size generally. I've got a couple of old skins in stock which I'm clinging onto for dear life.

Thanks very much.

It was meant to read "synthetic ", dammed t9...

Will surely check out your shoes examples .
post #476 of 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post

My experience with fit with Koji Suzuki was extremely positive. 

At the trial stage the shoe was just a little tight across the vamp...otherwise near perfect. Trial took all of 5-10 minutes between my wearing and him looking to see about adjustments. He made the necessary adjustments and the completed product fits amazing. It took just a few wearings for the shoes to really break in and conform to my foot. 

They are by far the most comfortable shoes I own. 

I thought Koji was fine. The fit is good enough. The styling choices leave something to be desired. In my opinion, the price with the armoury markup, which puts him in the upper echelon of bespoke shoemakers globally, is crazy for what you are getting.
post #477 of 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

It was meant to read "synthetic ", dammed t9...

Ahaha, yes that would certainly make more sense.

I've never seen any of the oiled leather in hide form, only on a couple of very old sample shoes. Hard to say whether it's "better" than the new version, certainly more romantic though.
post #478 of 625
I've used the Annonay calf. It is beautiful. I thought that what I used was the Vocalou. Isn't it a high grade calf with a finish on it? I am sure it is aniline dyed but I thought there was a top coat..

Point is that if that's so, that top coat/finish will have to be stripped in order for the dye to strike evenly.
post #479 of 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

I've used the Annonay calf. It is beautiful. I thought that what I used was the Vocalou. Isn't it a high grade calf with a finish on it? I am sure it is aniline dyed but I thought there was a top coat..

Point is that if that's so, that top coat/finish will have to be stripped in order for the dye to strike evenly.
That is what I thought and when I brought over the samples to my shoemaker, he pretty much thought that it had a finish on it. I believe I have seen what @ntempleman did with antiquing it (half brogue oxfords, right?) and it came out great but curious on the longevity of such a finish. What did you use to strip the finish ?
post #480 of 625

Hello All,

 

In case anyone is interested in trying out Foster & Son bespoke, they will be traveling through the US and having trunk shows in various cities come April. Some pics and info shown below.

 

Cheers!

 

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