The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[Ric Borella]

Some progress on my split toes. Nicholas Templeman is making quick progress on my last.

He roughs out the top.


Then finishes the bottoms before coming back to refine the top.









And a sample shoe that he's making with some remarkable stitch on the lake;

Great job!!!!

 

[jerrybrowne]

More updates. These are Nicholas' words taken from his email (hope you don't mind Nicholas).

Shaping the contours of the forepart for toes and joints, and straightening up the edge for happy making.



Clamped in good and proper.




It's roughly there now, the shape is about right. I just need to go over it and finesse things with my finest rasp once I've reset my eyes, you stop seeing the last for the wood after a while.




And of course, turn this blob of vaguely right last shaped wood into it's fellow once I'm happy with the left.

 

[mw313]

Some progress on my split toes. Nicholas Templeman is making quick progress on my last.

He roughs out the top.


Then finishes the bottoms before coming back to refine the top.









And a sample shoe that he's making with some remarkable stitch on the lake;

very impressive to Nicholas!

 

[dddrees]

Some progress on my split toes. Nicholas Templeman is making quick progress on my last.

He roughs out the top.


Then finishes the bottoms before coming back to refine the top.









And a sample shoe that he's making with some remarkable stitch on the lake;

Cool looking process, great looking shoes.

 

[Concordia]



Some swatches from John Lobb SJ.

Nobody does browns like Lobb. If only their shape and fit were as good...

 

[Ric Borella]

A new photo!

 

[jerrybrowne]

More updates from Nicholas;


Starting work on the fellow



Shaving down the last with the knife


I knew there was a pair under all that wood

 

[jerrybrowne]

Again- Nicholas' words;

Working out the pattern




I very quickly whipped together a crude mock upper to check the pattern over - it's more for my benefit than something I'd necessarily show a client and it doesn't really reflect the finished shoe accurately. As there's no lining, no insole and no stiffeners, the leather looks like it's pulled more and the lake tracing ends up wider than it should be amongst other details like that, but it can inform any adjustments I need to make. I thought you might appreciate seeing the lesser seen side of the process though, so here it is and you can begin to see the overall silhouette of the last once there's some leather on it.

 

[David Reeves]

Just put in an order at Crockett and Jones for some white Chelsea boots for the summer.

 

[jerrybrowne]



Just put in an order at Crockett and Jones for some white Chelsea boots for the summer.

Suede?

 

[David Reeves]



Suede?

I thought about it but, New York? White suede? I'd have a black mark on the toe the instant I stepped out the door!

I did plain white leather, no grain, thin black sole, the elastic we are seeing if we can get white or light grey, otherwise It will be black.

Interestingly Storm Troopers out of Star Wars wear patent white Chelsea boots.

 

[jerrybrowne]



Interestingly Storm Troopers out of Star Wars wear patent white Chelsea boots.

I did not know this. I'll have to take a closer look if they ever get Star Wars on Itunes.

Please post pics of your boots once they come in. They sound cool.

 

[mw313]

More updates from Nicholas;


Starting work on the fellow



Shaving down the last with the knife


I knew there was a pair under all that wood

Again- Nicholas' words;

Working out the pattern




I very quickly whipped together a crude mock upper to check the pattern over - it's more for my benefit than something I'd necessarily show a client and it doesn't really reflect the finished shoe accurately. As there's no lining, no insole and no stiffeners, the leather looks like it's pulled more and the lake tracing ends up wider than it should be amongst other details like that, but it can inform any adjustments I need to make. I thought you might appreciate seeing the lesser seen side of the process though, so here it is and you can begin to see the overall silhouette of the last once there's some leather on it.

it really is great to see the process in this detail. I would love to add this level of detail to the lecture I give on footwear to show the level of difference from these well made bespoke shoes to the cheap glued "fashion" shoes that most people go for. I have all of the science stuff down to keep the attention of the doctors and medical students but I feel that the art part isn't well covered yet.

 

[jerrybrowne]

Snagged these photos off of the interwebz. Thinking of having a pair of butterfly loafers made up. Anyone with experience? How is the comfort? Possible to put elastic in the instep somehow?

A couple of options;

A pair like these by JLSJ






Or more like this from Delos

 

[ThinkDerm]

Edward Green makes an awesome butterfly loafer