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Open or closed quarters?

post #1 of 53
Thread Starter 
What say ye?
I have a new suit with open quarters, I think I like it.
What is the opinions here?
Pics of examples?
is there something inbetween?
What characteristics does each impart?
post #2 of 53
Open!

Closed looks asymetrical, like a Y. Open looks fluid and symetrical, like an X. Closed looks like the coat is out of balance, with a short front and a long back.
post #3 of 53
Open.

But I'm just saying that because I'm Manton's lapdog. Or fanboy. Or whatever they called me.
post #4 of 53
Just the other day I noticed a man in a very boxy suit coat with closed quarters. It had a smock-like appearance. Open quarters provide visual interest and serve as a nice counterpoint to the V formed by the lapels.
post #5 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
Open.

But I'm just saying that because I'm Manton's lapdog. Or fanboy. Or whatever they called me.

Sycophant.
post #6 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post
Sycophant.

Right!

Thanks.
post #7 of 53
Can we get pics of examples?
post #8 of 53
Very closed really doesn't look good - there may be exceptions but I can't think of any.

But more open doesn't necessarily mean better.

This is too open for me:
post #9 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post
Very closed really doesn't look good - there may be exceptions but I can't think of any.

But more open doesn't necessarily mean better.

This is too open for me:

I don't think it's the openess of the quaters that makes that coat look unusual. It's more the button stance. There are two buttons, neither of which is at the waist of the coat. As I recall, the traditional way to wear such coats was to button both buttons. Doing that, the quarters would close up a bit.
post #10 of 53
I also think that having the bottom button done and not the top creates an asymmetry that is unflattering. If the top button were done and the bottom left open, the jacket would look a little more balanced.
post #11 of 53
I agree that the button stance(s) is weird but I think that even with the top button buttoned, it would still be a little too cut away.

Even with Huntsman one-button coats, the quarters stay closed / overlap a bit lower before opening.

Edit: same sort of thing from Richard Anderson

post #12 of 53
Open!

Goes with a good cut.
post #13 of 53
I agree, I don't like a perfect X. The opening above the button should be a little wider than the opening below. I really don't like it when the opening below is wider. That makes the coat look out of balance in the opposite way: long front, short back.
post #14 of 53
Interestingly enough, some don't think the exposure of open quarters is appropriate. Check out this embedded video at http://www.gregchapman.com/

Near the end of the video, Chapman, a clothier in LA, comments on a client's RTW suit jacket and notes that it "wasn't cut properly in the front and consequently exposes the crotch".
post #15 of 53
Thread Starter 
Isnt that why better suit makers put much time and effort into the front of pants?

Can we get a pic (Manton) of what the ideal looks like?
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