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gennaro paone: former head tailor of rubinacci

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patrickBOOTH

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That would just make the natural buttoning point lower (a lower roll). Pinch the gorge seam of your jacket right now and watch what the roll does. If the collar is pulling away from the neck it is a short back balance issue most likely. The only way to fix would be increase the amount of cloth over the back shoulders. Perhaps some iron work and stretching could do this.
 
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patrickBOOTH

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It could also be that the neck opening is too wide as well... Perhaps Despos, or Jeffery can comment as I am just guessing based on my personal experiences.
 
TheFoo

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patrickBOOTH said:
That would just make the natural buttoning point lower (a lower roll). Pinch the gorge seam of your jacket right now and watch what the roll does. If the collar is pulling away from the neck it is a short back balance issue most likely. The only way to fix would be increase the amount of cloth over the back shoulders. Perhaps some iron work and stretching could do this.
Click to expand...


Depends on why the collar is pulling away, I guess. Point is, I don't see why one wouldn't have the original tailor fix it up. It's his responsibility.
 
TheFoo

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patrickBOOTH said:
Couldn't hurt to ask them, that's for sure.
Click to expand...


That's why most tailors won't make you more than one jacket or suit for the first order. This was true of Rubinacci when I first started there as well. No matter what anyone in this thread would like to have you believe, tailors are human, so it takes time for any tailor to get things right. Better to get through all the mistakes in one jacket than replicate them across many.
 
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marcodalondra

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Fuuma said:
It doesn't matter, apprentice cutter or cutter, it was when he was young and he moved on to something else. The point is that these weren't two different professional roads.
Click to expand...
Apprentice cutter? He was barely putting stitches. Come on.... He was a good experience to put on the marketing campaign when he first launched his menswear suit collection (I bought two, in London, my first RTW suits- made in Italy either by Caruso or one of the Neapolitan factories).
 
TheFoo

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marcodalondra said:
Apprentice cutter? He was barely putting stitches. Come on.... He was a good experience to put on the marketing campaign when he first launched his menswear suit collection (I bought two, in London, my first RTW suits- made in Italy either by Caruso or one of the Neapolitan factories).
Click to expand...


You're still missing his point.
 
TheFoo

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Earnest question for the thread:

If you were trying to assess what a car feels like to drive, what information would you privilege most?

1. Testimony of an experienced driver with extensive experience driving the car.
2. The manufacturer's word.
3. Third party interviews with the manufacturer.
4. The word of competing manufacturers.
5. All rook same.
 
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Manton

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mafoofan said:
Earnest question for the thread:

It's a slow day for me, does anyone want to re-fight the last 60 pages over the exact same issue(s), except maybe for the ******** side-fight?
Click to expand...


Fixed, no charge.
 
Cantabrigian

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mafoofan said:
From pics and when I saw it in real life, I didn't think it was so bad. Am I missing something? More importantly, just have them fix it. That's what you paid them to do--get it right.
Click to expand...



patrickBOOTH said:
Couldn't hurt to ask them, that's for sure.
Click to expand...



Right after I ordered is when Mariano stopped coming to NY. (Don't know if he's in better health / travelling now.) And TBH I didn't (don't) really trust Luca.

By the time I finally got myself to Naples, several years had passed and at that point it seemed kinda lame to roll up and ask them to correct stuff. Especially since I wasn't really considering ordering anything else from them right then.

I suppose I could take to Paone and see what he says. :devil:
 
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