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post #61 of 105

Just as an update.  My ties got shipped out today so hopefully won't be too slow but we shall see with customs.  @ericgereghty I actually added 2 more silk ties for a total of 6.  The 2 new ones are jacquard seven fold, unlined silk and probably more of what you are looking for.  When I receive the ties I will post pictures.  If you have questions or need more pictures just let me know.  I am working with @SartodiNapoli to reduce the number of listing to show what is actually available for sale and options for new Bespoke.  I will say if you see pictures of ties you like either from SartodiNapoli's classifieds or on the internet I would reach out to SartodiNapoli.  He can provide a lot of details on his own ties and probably provide feedback on options to make ties you see on the internet.  Offering true Bespoke allows SartodiNapoli more options than anyone I have seen, but it is different from just ordering ties from other websites and then customizing the length and width.  Having so many possibilities you can't simply list or stock them all but think that leads to more pros than cons.

 

Regards,

Mark


Edited by Markboots - 8/24/16 at 6:51am
post #62 of 105

Waiting on my order of four ties, will post some hi-res pictures on arrival

post #63 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stonesy88 View Post
 

Waiting on my order of four ties, will post some hi-res pictures on arrival

will do the same, as soon as I have ordered my ties and pocket squares

post #64 of 105
Thread Starter 

Tussah from Vanners, more pics

post #65 of 105
I hope you get those English silk prints back in, those two Blue ones were my favourite smile.gif
post #66 of 105

@SartodiNapoli how does the Tussah from Vanners compare to the Shantung from Vanners that I bought?  Are they the same weight fabric?  How does it compare to Shantung for durability?

Quote:

Originally Posted by SartodiNapoli View Post
 

Tussah from Vanners, more pics

post #67 of 105
Tussah FTW
post #68 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Markboots View Post
 

 

That was milled for me on Vanners, I guess the base fabric is the exact one.

post #69 of 105
Thread Starter 

 

post #70 of 105

Update.

 

For those of you who have posted to this thread and to those I told that I will post pictures.

@ericgereghty, @SartodiNapoli, @brax, @chobochobo, @ThinkDerm, @patliean1, @Andy57, @Concordia, @justridiculous, @Cj52racers I have added @DiplomaticTies because I would appreciate comments from someone that has so many ties.

 

I finally got my ties in yesterday and here are some pictures right out of the wrappers.  If you need to see more pictures just let me know.  Wasn’t sure how close up or far away to capture the ties so I went with a happy medium but would be happy to take more if it helps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some of the interesting aspects of the ties are the different placements of the bar tack.  Red and Yellow silk is 9.5 inches from the tip of the tie, wool check is 7.5 inches, other blue wool is 9.25 inches, blue shantung 5 fold is 8 inches and the yellow 7 fold shantung is 11.5 inches.  I tried to highlight the difference in the picture between the blue and yellow Shantung, which is why I had to move far away to capture the yellow.  The yellow and red silk are quite different.  The keepers are different sizes and the handrolled edges are quire different with the amount of silk folded under.  What do the differences mean… beats me I will let SartodiNapoli comment.  My only guess is that two different people did the two silk ties.

 

I think it would be beneficial to discuss ties in more detail.   I see a lot of tie threads where people show a few pictures, say the ties are awesome and that’s it.  I don’t find that overly helpful.  I am not a tie maker or expert but would like to try and group tie features into categories. 

  1. What makes a great tie
  2. What features increase cost
  3. A great knot
  4. Personal preference – this is the part that should be pulled out but in general I feel influences more reviews than it should.

 

My limited understanding of what makes a great tie:

  1. Quality raw material – all silk are not equal so understanding the mill behind the tie is important.  This is the same for any material.  Problem is, not readily available unless you are dealing with Styleforum members.  Good luck at the department stores. 
  2. Pattern alignment – As you can see all my SartodiNapoli ties with patterns did a great job of lining up the pattern at the bottom of the tie.  I would think this means the ties were cut by hand (but could be wrong) with attention to detail to line up the pattern.  My Vanda ties also do this.  Most of my other ties do not.  Does that make a difference in how the tie drapes or ties a note?   I don’t think so, but to me it just seems the tie maker is going the extra mile to produce a great tie and I for one appreciate it.  No different than pattern matching on shirts.  Extra care, extra labor, extra cost but adds value.
  3. Handrolled edges – can someone elaborate here?  Is it the tightness of the roll and the straight edge it should create?  What distinguishes the good from the great.
  4. Lining of the tie.  What should you look for in lining?  Material, level of thickness?

 

Features that increase cost:

  1. Extra folds like 7 or 11 fold ties.  There is extra silk involved and extra labor. 
  2. The height of the bar tack – I have noticed that the ties I have from SartodiNapoli have various heights for bar tack placement as stated above.  I am assuming the higher the bar tack, the more difficult it is for the tie maker but would appreciate feedback to discuss the differences of how bar tack placement impacts cost and labor.  I also notice that some of my ties have small stitching besides the bar tack to keep the tie closed.  Why is that?  Just to keep the tie more together?  I don’t mind it on the small end but I like to see the folds.

 

A great knot:

  1. In general, outside of the ability of the person that ties the knot.  What features of the tie creates a nice knot?  Is it just the quality of the raw materials and the lining?  What is the interaction between the tie material and the lining?  Is there a perfect ratio of tie material thickness and lining? 

 

Personal preference and why I like my new ties.

  1. I prefer 6/7 fold with hand rolled edges.  11 fold sounds great but too expensive for me.  Maybe even higher maintenance.  I like a high bar tack that shows off the folds and pattern alignment at the bottom.  I also like a tie that has good weight to it.  I have an unlined 7 fold from Finamore that I bought off eBay and it is way too light for me.  It feels like I have a piece of string around my neck.  I don't know where to put tie weight in the above items.  Is it what makes a tie great, increased cost or just personal preference? 
  2. I am really happy with the ties from SartodiNapoli.  Great variety in tie material.  Custom length, width, number of folds and tie material options for those who have specific requirements.  He even offers a monogram service and can customize the color of the bar tack.  My opinion is the price per tie is fantastic for the level of quality.  I have not worn them yet but will start this week and can post pictures.

 

Feedback is not only welcome but encouraged!  Remember I am no tie expert but did my best : )

 

​Regards,

Mark

post #71 of 105
Thread Starter 

Thanks!

 

Point 3, Handrolled edges – can someone elaborate here?  Is it the tightness of the roll and the straight edge it should create?  What distinguishes the good from the great.

 

Me: Note the first pic, yellow one, that was an early model, note has biggest edges, the others got very narrow edges, very difficult to do and time and skill needed.

 

 Point 2: The height of the bar tack – I have noticed that the ties I have from SartodiNapoli have various heights for bar tack placement as stated above.  I am assuming the higher the bar tack, the more difficult it is for the tie maker but would appreciate feedback to discuss the differences of how bar tack placement impacts cost and labor.  I also notice that some of my ties have small stitching besides the bar tack to keep the tie closed.  Why is that?  Just to keep the tie more together?  I don’t mind it on the small end but I like to see the folds.

 

Me: as much higher the bartack is placed, in Naples is taken as a matter of quality, 28 cms and even 30 is what I like to do. Note some of yours have different height due to being some early models and to show the difference on trunkshows to clients so they can visualice the differences.

 

 Point 4: Lining of the tie.  What should you look for in lining?  Material, level of thickness?

 

 Me: Only wool and cotton is used for high quality as the Neapolitan Alta Sartoria traditicion and transpiracy on the neck, no thick polyamide, polyester or petrol derivate that not only is cheap, but sweats your neck as having a plastic bag around it.  For bespoke only a layer can be put for extralight Summer purposes (my personal chose) but some people like normal, light or extrastrong, as everything is done by request. You per example like ties with weight ( the standard make with two layers), not extra light with a single layer as my personal choice that not so many like, as I said this is a personal choice as condiments on a meal.

 

 Point knot: A great knot can be get more easily when the ingredients are good, as a dish recipe, as better they are, better will get the result. I think is very easy to get an elegant knot with any good tie, no matter who or where was it done but the shape of the interlining gets a big % of the success. 

 

Altering it on request is also at no cost and we do for people who asked a tiny knot as Prince Charles or others who like extrabig.

 

We all do recall how many times we need to do or redo the knot on commercial ties to get a pro knot and how easy was once we got a very good tie that also and mainly, do not bothers our neck and we can eat, have it maybe 24h or more on a business travel etc instead of desiring arriving home or the room hotel to unbutton the last button( here good shirts with good interlining are also the key) untie the tie and get the torture out. There is no such bad feeling with good garments that fit our body and made with the best materials, made not designed to get rich on the making lowering the quality to get highest margins of benefit, but doing a garment with pleasure and care, made to fit the clientele,  made as a good restaurant does,  to make the clientele happy desiring you are always wanting to return there. 

post #72 of 105

Thank you for the feedback @SartodiNapoli

 

Glad I put the weight of a tie in the personal preference section only.  "sweats your neck as having a plastic bag around it".  I never thought of that.  

 

Good to know, " Me: Note the first pic, yellow one, that was an early model, note has biggest edges, the others got very narrow edges, very difficult to do and time and skill needed."

 

Regards,

Mark

post #73 of 105

Have one of the new ties on today and one of the pocket squares.

 

post #74 of 105
Thread Starter 
New fabrics, linens, wools, camel wool, printed silks.
 

Note the blues are way darker on real life,  fast pics on mobile just to show. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New fabrics, linens, wools, camel wool, printed silks.
 

Note the blues are way darker on real life,  fast pics on mobile just to show. 

 

Edited pics for more real like colors, specially on blues: 

 

 

 

 

Edited by SartodiNapoli - 9/21/16 at 6:27pm
post #75 of 105
Camel looks interesting.
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