Classic Menswear Lounge



kulata said:

I ordered a striped shirt just like that because of you @Betelgeuse

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Nice! You are going to love it!

Two attempts with repeated pattern. I went with the second, smaller check. I think mainly because I felt the white base was too bright for the suit.

Clags, you crack me up, bro.

Clags, you're right second one does look better

Second one looks better but I'd like to see the combo with a plain but textured tie.

in stitches said:

Clags, you crack me up, bro.

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Tweedy asked, and I provided. I'll be doing the same tomorrow.

Cleav said:

Clags, you're right second one does look better

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That's why I went with it today!

kulata said:

Second one looks better but I'd like to see the combo with a plain but textured tie.

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Agreed. I had a brown wool herringbone I could wear with it, but I'm wearing that tomorrow when I continue providing examples of checks on checks.



Claghorn said:

Tweedy asked, and I provided. I'll be doing the same tomorrow.

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I would love to see your computer files and how you have all your selfies organized.

pictures are named after date. So 12022014close or 12022014full. Though that computer has yet to be unpacked, so they're all just placed wherever now.

My pictures are all on my phone. Not very convenient trying to track them down.

Clags, if tomorrow we're in for tattersall shirt + herringbone knit tie + that brown/olive jacket with glen plaid, it's a winner before we even see it.

Gentlemen, time for a technical question. I've been a RTW whore for a long time but I feel I'm now ready for some bespoke action. Reason being that as my understanding of what constitutes "fit" has improved, I've come to realise how the limitations of my own physique make a truly well-fitting RTW jacket difficult if not impossible to find.

I'm 180cm and 82kg. Fairly standard frame and proportions except for the following:

- Exaggerated thoracic kyphosis and lumbar lordosis, both secondary to adolescent Scheuermann's disease (easily visible on lateral chest x-ray). Essentially, I have a fixed deformity of my mid-thoracic (T6-8) spine which causes a mild stoop at that level. In order to maintain an erect head, I have to correct for the thoracic deformity by pushing my abdomen forward.
- "Barrel" chest. This is common in people with a Scheuermann's deformity.
- Poorly developed deltoids, leading to somewhat narrow shoulders. This is genetic. I spent years in the gym doing various deltoid exercises, to little avail. I just can't stack on muscle there.

To summarise: curved back, forward stoop, barrel chest, narrow shoulders, protruberant tummy. Basically resistant to correction - I have to live with these little first-world problems.

Here's a few (spoilered) fit shots which I think demonstrate the issues:


Barrel chest causing bowed lapels -



Same problem here. Also, unstructured jacket reveals my narrow shoulders and make my head look big -




Spinal curvature. Note how the exaggerated lumbar lordosis throws my arse back, causing the rear jacket flap to stick out -




Here's a SuitSupply Washington in linen. Rear vents still tacked shut; if they weren't, the flap would stick out. Note how the shoulder points stand slightly clear of my actual shoulder points (acromion) -


Completely unstructured jacket showing my poor shoulder development. Head looks too big -


My well-loved TF suit. Heavily padded shoulders suit me, but there is some lapel bowing caused by my barrel chest -


The exception that proves the rule: SuitSupply Soho DB. Unstructured spalla camicia shoulders. For some reason, this particular jacket looks good on me. No idea why.


My one foray into bespoke. Made in Shanghai. I had three fittings. Actually he did a great job, except for the chest - lapel bowing again.


This one is just wrong, wrong, wrong. Unstructured shoulders. Chest too tight. Nightmare -


If I'm to move forward successfully with bespoke, I need to make sure I don't ask for the impossible. Much as I love the soft Neapolitan look with spalla camicia shoulders, I suspect that it's unflattering to my physique. Perhaps I need more structure in my shoulders. I definitely need more room in the chest area, and I'm wondering whether I should be asking for a "drape" cut.

Here are a few shots which I feel are more successful in terms of hiding the various peculiarities of my physique. Perhaps it's no coincidence that many of these better-fitting jackets are from Canali.


Canali. Structured shoulders -


Vintage suit from the 60s - very structured.




Canali -


Canali -


Pal Zileri. Cashmere blend but still has structure to the shoulders -


SuitSupply Soho cut. Soft construction. Minor lapel bowing -


Gant. Structured shoulders -


Canali. Structured shoulders. Minor lapel bowing -


Canali. Structured shoulders -


Caruso -


Vintage jacket. Roped shoulders. Minor lapel bowing -



Any recommendations as to what style of jacket I should be asking for? English vs. Italian? Milanese vs. Florentine vs. Neapolitan? Drape cut vs. flat cut? Shoulder construction?

Thanks in advance, and once again, apologies for inflicting on you so many shots of my dubious mug.

British drape cut all the wayyyy~

I would find a tailor who does work you like and with whom you can build a rapport - ask about their fitting process and what they like to cut. Once you've settled on someone, tell them the sorts of things you like, pick the stylistic details - pockets, lapel, closure, etc - and then let them make the jacket.

Who's available over there, Coxie?

mktitsworth said:

I would find a tailor who does work you like and with whom you can build a rapport - ask about their fitting process and what they like to cut. Once you've settled on someone, tell them the sorts of things you like, pick the stylistic details - pockets, lapel, closure, etc - and then let them make the jacket.

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Sure, this is a given. I was actually soliciting opinions about what types of cut might best suit my frame and my posture issues.

Isolation said:

British drape cut all the wayyyy~

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I believe Rubinacci and some of the other Neapolitan tailors incorporate some drape into their cuts. So it doesn't have to be British. I find the British suit style a little too padded. Not well suited to the Australian climate.

sugarbutch said:

Who's available over there, Coxie?

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There are many bespoke tailors in both Sydney and Melbourne, at varying price points. There's also B&Tailor, who have a local fitter in Sydney (Incontro).