Classic Menswear Lounge

I think you’re right insofar as pocket squares, as an accessory, have always been optional. They were never part of the code, whereas coat and tie was. Now they are optional too.

UrbanComposition said:

I think you’re right insofar as pocket squares, as an accessory, have always been optional. They were never part of the code, whereas coat and tie was. Now they are optional too.

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not sure where that is going…
But coat and tie has been optional most places for 2+ decades now. People haven’t worn suits because they have to since the bill clinton years.

so to the extent that some formality has survived the 21st century, and the role of pocket squares within this discussion…

it appears that the big loud pocket squares and big puffs are going out of style. More subtle colored squares can more conservative folds, are a classier look and draw less attention to themselves.
man’s after a pocket square boom, so to speak, where they made a come back but now Michael Strahan has his own J.C. Penney’s line of squares, they are coming off as a bit showy and gaudy and being toned down.

the examples I posted above are more of the future of pocket squares. I don’t think the pocket square is going to die, like the bankers collar/cuffs (white collar on a blue shirt) or the pinky ring. But I think we are going to see them used as more of an accessory rather than the star of the show (which had become a trend the past 5 years)

I hope you’re right, but tasteful pocket squares worn well have, as far as I can remember, been the exception rather than the rule. I don’t foresee that changing.

UrbanComposition said:

Sooooooooo I hear ya, but consider:

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UrbanComposition said:

Thanks for explaining; I think I see your point. However,

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UrbanComposition said:

I hear ya. However

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UrbanComposition said:

I sincerely hope you're right, but

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UrbanComposition said:

I hope you’re right, but

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I pray I one day have an ounce of the grace and patience of Urban Composition.

I’d like to think he comes from a good place. Maybe he’s bummed that people don’t have better taste; I get that. But I hope he doesn’t see strict CM as the be-all-end-all. For better or worse, society is waaaaaay past that.

Instead of lamenting bygone days, I prefer to be guided by historical precedent, but not a slave to it. There are still plenty of ways to look good besides coat and tie.

UrbanComposition said:

I think you’re right insofar as pocket squares, as an accessory, have always been optional. They were never part of the code, whereas coat and tie was. Now they are optional too.

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What I'm finding is that as ties become more optional, I am definitely leaning into my pocket square game a lot harder to bring that bit of flair and color to my outfit. And nothing too outlandish. With a tie, I was always a fan of minimalist, rat pack Presidential fold white linen. But if I'm not wearing a tie, I do like to push it just a bit...rarely too pouffy. I still like classic folds.

Duke Santos said:

What I'm finding is that as ties become more optional, I am definitely leaning into my pocket square game a lot harder to bring that bit of flair and color to my outfit. And nothing too outlandish. With a tie, I was always a fan of minimalist, rat pack Presidential fold white linen. But if I'm not wearing a tie, I do like to push it just a bit...rarely too pouffy. I still like classic folds.

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I actually agree with this concept. The loss of the tie allows one to increase the prominence of the pocket square.

but when wearing a tie, pocket square should be more of an accessory (generally speaking, of course exceptions apply)

Very subtle. Very nice.

Earlier in the thread @TweedyProf and I were trying to find the ideal pairing for a herringbone tie. I've found them to be wonderful in theory but surprisingly difficult to pair well. True, it does read as a solid from a distance, but it's personally too busy for me to wear it with a patterned jacket, especially since a solid is so much easier to find. Then too, I like to think that a tie looks weird if it's more casual (in fabric, weave, and design) than the jacket/suit. So I mainly relegate them to casual suits with texture that doesn't compete with herringbone, and unfortunately that doesn't leave many options: flannel for cool weather or slubby linen/cotton for warm weather.

I'll post a warm weather suit in a few months, but for now here's an example of flannel:

UrbanComposition said:

Earlier in the thread @TweedyProf and I were trying to find the ideal pairing for a herringbone tie. I've found them to be wonderful in theory but surprisingly difficult to pair well. True, it does read as a solid from a distance, but it's personally too busy for me to wear it with a patterned jacket, especially since a solid is so much easier to find. Then too, I like to think that a tie looks weird if it's more casual (in fabric, weave, and design) than the jacket/suit. So I mainly relegate them to casual suits with texture that doesn't compete with herringbone, and unfortunately that doesn't leave many options: flannel for cool weather or slubby linen/cotton for warm weather.

I'll post a warm weather suit in a few months, but for now here's an example of flannel:

View attachment 1756482

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So good, Peter. I'm still wondering if the herringbone on herringbone might work in very limited settings, though I agree with you. I'm imagining a strong HB SC, larger pattern, but with a fine HB tie that is almost not a HB (some HB ties I have are more "distorted" in weave, with the lines not as sharp, if that makes sense). But I don't think we disagree. Thanks for posting that pic.

Indeed, I bet you have another new set of winter fits from your photo archive of the past few years, so if you don't mind picking a few of your favorites, we'd all enjoy seeing them.

TweedyProf said:

So good, Peter. I'm still wondering if the herringbone on herringbone might work in very limited settings, though I agree with you. I'm imagining a strong HB SC, larger pattern, but with a fine HB tie that is almost not a HB (some HB ties I have are more "distorted" in weave, with the lines not as sharp, if that makes sense). But I don't think we disagree. Thanks for posting that pic.

Indeed, I bet you have another new set of winter fits from your photo archive of the past few years, so if you don't mind picking a few of your favorites, we'd all enjoy seeing them.

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I meant the winter edition of the x tie/x jacket thread! Forgot where I was!