Classic Menswear Lounge

http://www.styleforum.net/t/309586/whnay-s-good-taste-thread

Happy reading



bourbonbasted said:

Likely pulling the trigger on a Harrison's Mirage or LP linen/silk/wool number for next Spring/Summer (can't stop waffling on colors/patterns). One of my biggest qualms about lighter-weight wools is their lack of texture/visual interest. Fresco is the best of that ilk, but still wears a bit suit-y for my tastes. As someone living in a warmer climate, l/w/s is the best of both worlds -- light wearing with visual texture.

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Exactly. I love my LP bespoke because I can see and feel the texture on the jacket. I also agree with you about Fresco feeling too much like a suit.

^ Yeah. Fresco belongs on suits (or maybe a navy blazer with patch pockets).

Dark navy windowpane, worn as an odd jacket, seems to require darker pants than would a non-windowpane jacket in that same shade.






(I ended up getting pants from Luxire to match the jacket.)

BnTailor x Luxire?

I got a shirt from Luxire once and found the quality to be lacking.

How did the pants come out?

Claghorn said:

(I ended up getting pants from Luxire to match the jacket.)

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Also, I hate navy windowpane fabric for an SC!!!

Claghorn said:

Dark navy windowpane, worn as an odd jacket, seems to require darker pants than would a non-windowpane jacket in that same shade.

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Tira's the bomb IMO- flannel > w/s/l + feint deco > loud



jrd617 said:

Also, I hate navy windowpane fabric for an SC!!!

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I think it really depends on the shade of blue and the composition of the material.

For instance, I'm almost certainly getting something made up in one of these three (1) (2) (3). All of which will work equally well with cream, khaki and mid-grey trousers in varying weights. I think a navy windowpane is a nice evolution of the solid navy blazer as it maintains the general matching flexibilities while adding a bit more visual interest.

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You have some very strong and (to me at least) wierd opinions, I have to say! One of the things I like most about Japanese iGentry (I am there quite frequently), is the use of well-tailored blue windowpane check jackets as a staple item. They really work. I don't also agree with Claghorn about the pants colour issue. This can be determined by the colour and contrast of the windowpane check or the jacket or both and all the usual things one takes in to account. I certainly can't see that darker trousers would work better as a rule. However, what I do think, based on having seen quite a lot of these jackets IRL now, is that 1. the best kinds in most cases are like Tirailleur's (above), where the windowpane check is not too weak (like Clag's own one above - sorry!) and not too strong (like the first one in Clag's pictures), and 2. they work best in a tweed / fuzzy / in some way textured fabric - other wise they can end up just looking like an orphan suit jacket.



bourbonbasted said:

I think it really depends on the shade of blue and the composition of the material. For instance, I'm almost certainly getting something made up in one of these three (1) (2) (3). All of which will work equally well with cream, khaki and mid-grey trousers in varying weights. I think a navy windowpane is a nice evolution of the solid navy blazer as it maintains the general matching flexibilities while adding a bit more visual interest.

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Only 3 is a true navy. 1 is a sky blue and 2 is a charcoalish-midnight blue? Stichy and I talked about this a few months ago: http://www.styleforum.net/t/375309/noodles-good-natured-advice-thread/9050_50#post_7266983

FlyingMonkey said:

Quote:
You have some very strong and (to me at least) wierd opinions, I have to say! One of the things I like most about Japanese iGentry (I am there quite frequently), is the use of well-tailored blue windowpane check jackets as a staple item. They really work. I don't also agree with Claghorn about the pants colour issue. This can be determined by the colour and contrast of the windowpane check or the jacket or both and all the usual things one takes in to account. I certainly can't see that darker trousers would work better as a rule. However, what I do think, based on having seen quite a lot of these jackets IRL now, is that 1. the best kinds in most cases are like Tirailleur's (above), where the windowpane check is not too weak (like Clag's own one above - sorry!) and not too strong (like the first one in Clag's pictures), and 2. they work best in a tweed / fuzzy / in some way textured fabric - other wise they can end up just looking like an orphan suit jacket.

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I could say the same about some of your dashing tweeds no hate everyone's entitled to opinions



jrd617 said:

everyone's entitled to opinions

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I think this is the only place to net-out as you haven't really offered any support or insight into why navy windowpane doesn't work. The image in the post you linked is all-around awful, so I have a hard time accepting that as real evidence.

But, just so you know, navy windowpane as an SC is both serviceable and advisable.



bourbonbasted said:

I think this is the only place to net-out as you haven't really offered any support or insight into why navy windowpane doesn't work. The image in the post you linked is all-around awful, so I have a hard time accepting that as real evidence.

But, just so you know, navy windowpane as an SC is both serviceable and advisable.

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If you read that whole discussion with stitch and clag, I explained in a paragraph why I don't like navy windowpane SCs. In a nutshell, navy windowpane cloth for a SC is too reminiscent of suiting.

jrd617 said:

Stichy and I talked about this a few months ago: http://www.styleforum.net/t/375309/noodles-good-natured-advice-thread/9050_50#post_7266983

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And neither of you mentioned any of the things that have come up this time. I think we're taking that discussion a little further. Or we're trying to. You just keep trying to close it down to dislike of navy blue...



jrd617 said:

If you read that whole discussion with stitch and clag, I explained in a paragraph why I don't like navy windowpane SCs. In a nutshell, navy windowpane cloth for a SC is too reminiscent of suiting.

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This bit?

jrd617 said:

+1

listen to stichala

For a SC, I think windowpane can work very well on a rough textured green or brown tweed. This is due to the casualness of the earthy colors.

But due to the combination of the vertical lines and navy color, a blue windowpane SC will draw the association of a suit. Something about the navy color + lines just communicates "suit" to me.

It's like a wide pinstripe with horizontal lines added. Looks very "banker" (navy pinstripe)

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It's odd to me that you would see the vertical lines as a defining point and disregard the horizontal lines altogether. Am I safe in assuming then that you only see a Russell plaid when looking at a glen plaid jacket?

It's also odd that, if I follow your logic, navy alone is fine and vertical lines alone are fine, but together they look too "suit-y." I'm not sure what SC would ever be advisable with strictly vertical lines, regardless of color or composition. Not that it hasn't been done, but it's certainly less-than-easy.

Again, I think we have to go back to my initial conclusion that this is just your opinion (which is obviously completely fine). I just think that wholesale refusal of navy windowpane is less than logical and, in practice, unfounded. YMMV.

I don't think your comments have been deep on the subject, FM

I gave a rationale for why I don't like the look of navy windowpane SC's, and you merely made passing reference to some Japanese guys who you've seen. Do you have pictures?

Also, I don't think the color of pants makes a difference. (See: claghorn's pics). The jackets all look like orphans to me. Navy windowpane just reminds me of a city suit