Classic Menswear Lounge

Monkeyface said:

High waisted, double pleated, silk/linen odd trousers. I have never gotten as many compliments from random strangers in NYC as that day. Conversely, they're universally hated on SF. It's a very rakish, somewhat 70s look. About as love/hate as it can get. They're so much comfortable than slim, low waisted flat fronts. Sorry for the odd crop, but I'm not posting pics of someone else without their permission.



I'm having Luxire replicate these trousers, along with a Sartoria Partenopea suit jacket, to make a suit in Minnis #0301 mid grey flannel.

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That's a nice duplication of the Guerrism's look. Basically, high waisted linen (ish) light colored trousers with light pop-over or polo, everything slightly rumply and open and relaxed. Really perfect. We've talked about the butter yellow trousers in WAYWRN, but I think it looks perfect in this pic. If you were to throw a jacket over this, I would try a linen slate blue. This would be somewhat neutral though with a blue vibe that might work with the color of the trousers. A navy blazer would feel to affected, like something for the yacht club. And unless you belong to one, I'd avoid it.

Actually, you could try your Eidos guncheck from the summer to test. That might work well here. Want to post a trial run? Use that polo too.

On comfort and flat fronts. Every trouser I own is flat front. Maybe if I wore pleated trousers, I'd be even more comfortable, but I've never felt uncomfortable in them. I don't notice them when I sit down, or when I walk, so that is the definition of comfort to me. Were I to notice my pants, even that they "are comfortable", um, that would be exactly what clothes should do when I wear them.

So were I to move over to a single pleat, it would be for aesthetic reasons. For example, I agree with the current line of thought that high waisted trousers should take pleats, to break up the extra fabric from the fork up, else one ends up looking "paunchy."

TweedyProf said:

But my college's was better...

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Another Oxonian

What's your subject area?



unbelragazzo said:

You guys have some seriously weird Vox fantasies.

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http://wellwornwornwell.tumblr.com/...iling-the-obsessive-serial-killers-igents-and

shameless plug

JP Hardy is the man.

bourbonbasted said:

http://wellwornwornwell.tumblr.com/...iling-the-obsessive-serial-killers-igents-and

shameless plug

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Biggest Aspiration: Running into Vox at their shared tailor
Biggest Barrier to Aspiration: Having a proper tailor/knowing what Vox looks like

Goddammit.

Well, I can't afford his tailor. Someday?

Biggest Insecurity: “Personal style”
Biggest Coping Mechanism: “Personal style”


These made me chortle.

@EliodA, I recall seeing that fit and liking it. I think it looks much better because he is not wearing a tie, as I'd think an orange striped shirt of that sort would be tougher to pair well. Fine for business casual, though. I think one unexpected / loud item can work well in a fit if it is well executed. Often that is sort of a "I know it when I see it" type of thing, so hard to describe exactly.

@monkeyface, I think those trousers work nicely with that look but can see them being tough to dress up (which may be the point). That style of trouser in a grey flannel will be lovely. While I don't own any pleats myself, I don't dislike them.

bourbonbasted said:

http://wellwornwornwell.tumblr.com/...iling-the-obsessive-serial-killers-igents-and

shameless plug

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Hilarious...oh wait, sort of rings true...

SamF said:

Another Oxonian

What's your subject area?

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I suspect there are others, SamF. Let's just say I was one of those annoying Americans you ran into.

I go single forward pleat on everything but corduroy and some chinos. I like the extra room, but the main plus imo is how unbroken crease line from pleat to hem.

Monkeyface said:

Mine rolls past the middle button when opened, while I suspect yours rolls just above it. The difference between a 3 roll 2 and 3 roll 2.5.

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I think part of it also is that EliodA's lapels have no belly. And yours have the right, small amount.

Quote:
This is exactly it - one of those tiny satisfying details that probably only the wearer will notice. It's exactly how I have my suit trousers cut now, and I will have my odd trousers done the same way (when I get the chance to have some made).

emptym said:

I think part of it also is that EliodA's lapels have no belly. And yours have the right, small amount.

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I wish I had as little belly as my lapels...



emptym said:

I go single forward pleat on everything but corduroy and some chinos. I like the extra room, but the main plus imo is how unbroken crease line from pleat to hem.

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This is my goal. Both in pants, and in life.

MF, I think the lack of love for those pants is mostly about the color.

Yep