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Classic Menswear Lounge - Page 216

post #3226 of 3317
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post


Where does that leave block stripes, though?  
Slightly post peak menswear.
post #3227 of 3317
Yet still quite nice.
post #3228 of 3317
Agreed.
post #3229 of 3317

3 stripes seems to be the magic number for me in terms of visual appeal. Two works if they are two colors other than the background.  More than 3 works if there are only two colors + background involved

post #3230 of 3317
First Stitchy, now Tits. Christmas (and Hanukkah) done come early!
post #3231 of 3317
Let's get the old band back together.

Also, that's Dr. Tits now (hence my ability to return).
post #3232 of 3317
If you're going to insist on the honorific, then I think it must be Dr. Breasts.
post #3233 of 3317
I'm not going to, but I needed a good segue into it.
post #3234 of 3317
Quote:
Originally Posted by LinenMoses View Post

I think there's a fine line between just enough and too much lapel roll. IMO having a belly like that creates too much lapel roll and it makes the jacket seem like it's trying too hard. It should have an element of sprezzatura, but too much makes it look intentional.


Also, the creasing around the middle of the lapel looks wrong. Perhaps this is because the jacket is on a mannequin and not the person it was made for, but it still looks awkward.



I'm from a time when lots of lapels were made with large rolled lapels. I think they make lapels splendid, and the coat is less boring.

Add a third layer, pocketing, to help hold the shape, pad stitching and collar shape are also important for holding the shape. A proper press shrinks the under layer more than than the top, which is another part of getting that shape. When you see a very good pair you are looking at a number of skills masterly put together. There is another thought. Where to roll the edges. The lower part of the coat, the facing, is pushed out of sight. The lapel edge hangs over, so the coat part there is pushed under. Along that edge is that transition where it shifts from one to the other. The edges are butted together for an eighth to a quarter inch. On a small roll there is not much choice. To get the rolls to start at exactly the same place, and the butted edges exactly the same place, well, it seems many tailors don't. High skills cost more money.
post #3235 of 3317
My shirt wardrobe has pretty much revolved around solid white, light blue end-on-end and pink with a pencil stripe blue thrown in from time to time. The benefit of this simple mix is that they are easy to mix and always look good.

However, now that I rarely ever wear a tie, having a shirt with a bit more pattern and color is appealing to me. A long-time #menswear acquaintance does very attractive fashion displays. More and more he is showing simple and multi colored checks with tailored jackets and I've found that to be inspiring. I've really enjoyed seeing his use of complimentary and coordinated colors. As a result I've been expanding beyond solids and have been ordering a variety of checks that coordinate with favorite jackets.

Here are a few examples of a recent order:







The second from the top is a brown and black stripe which will be a nice change under my brown jackets (have always worn solid blue with brown)

The other checks will be easy to mix with wardrobe but are more visually interesting than a a solid.

The bottom end-on-end is a bit darker, with more contrast than my typical fine end on end.
post #3236 of 3317
These fabrics remind me of old school ll bean
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post

My shirt wardrobe has pretty much revolved around solid white, light blue end-on-end and pink with a pencil stripe blue thrown in from time to time. The benefit of this simple mix is that they are easy to mix and always look good.

However, now that I rarely ever wear a tie, having a shirt with a bit more pattern and color is appealing to me. A long-time #menswear acquaintance does very attractive fashion displays. More and more he is showing simple and multi colored checks with tailored jackets and I've found that to be inspiring. I've really enjoyed seeing his use of complimentary and coordinated colors. As a result I've been expanding beyond solids and have been ordering a variety of checks that coordinate with favorite jackets.

Here are a few examples of a recent order:







The second from the top is a brown and black stripe which will be a nice change under my brown jackets (have always worn solid blue with brown)

The other checks will be easy to mix with wardrobe but are more visually interesting than a a solid.

The bottom end-on-end is a bit darker, with more contrast than my typical fine end on end.
post #3237 of 3317
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post

These fabrics remind me of old school ll bean

confused.gif
post #3238 of 3317
Thread Starter 

I quite like the tattersall @GusW  (#2) and the last one which seems like it would have a nice textural effect. 

 

That said, I do find many casual shirt patterns to be uninspiring and am not sure how to find something interesting that doesn't end up looking run of the mill (Banana Republic/Gap/J Crew etc.). So, I tend to go for interesting fabrics that in some way stand out on their own.

 

For summer shirting, I tend to solids of interesting colors and textures (I have a lovely inky blue linen and a lovely unique chambray, both slubby/streaky in appearance), or just a nice slubby linen with a simple pattern, e.g. university stripes with a beautiful collar roll. Good RTW linen shirts are not so common, so I feel a quality fabric stands out. 

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/1r2QPIgrzD/?taken-by=tweedyprof&hl=en

 

For winter, a nice warm flannel, soft textured shirt, here a soft red check and a tattersall similar to what you have above.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/8-v4negr5Z/?taken-by=tweedyprof&hl=en

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/8qrovCgr7V/?taken-by=tweedyprof&hl=en

 

Did you get those from Joe? He has some really nice linens, last time I was in their office in CA.

post #3239 of 3317
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post

confused.gif
Those are classic
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

I quite like the tattersall @GusW
  (#2) and the last one which seems like it would have a nice textural effect. 

That said, I do find many casual shirt patterns to be uninspiring and am not sure how to find something interesting that doesn't end up looking run of the mill (Banana Republic/Gap/J Crew etc.).

For summer shirting, I tend to solids of interesting colors and textures (I have a lovely inky blue linen and a lovely unique chambray, both slubby/streaky in appearance), or just a nice slubby linen with a simple pattern, e.g. university stripes with a beautiful collar roll. Good RTW linen shirts are not so common, so I feel a quality fabric stands out. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/1r2QPIgrzD/?taken-by=tweedyprof&hl=en
My point
post #3240 of 3317
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Did you get those from Joe? He has some really nice linens, last time I was in their office in CA.

Yes, these are all from Joe. You are right, he has beautiful Italian linens. Because he has worked with the major mills for over 30 years he gets many limited run fabrics.

The fabrics were all selected with specific F/W jackets and sweaters in mind. I also saw virtually identical fabric to #1 and #4 at the Kiton boutique in SF made up as shirts and paired with jackets and sweaters similar to my own. The blue and gray check adds a subtle but interesting look to a blue blazer or gray cardigan. Much less of a uniform look than a solid white or blue. I never would have selected it had I not seen it. I would have assumed it would be too dull, but it is actually quite interesting especially in an easy to pair overall gray/blue/navy outfit.

In selecting these fabrics I'm also moving to slightly deeper or muted colors. I've never had a shirt with any gray. The blue end on end, two tone blue check and the small blue/white check are all a shift to a richer blue than I normally select.

For Spring, I will order more shirts and, like you, in linen or cotton/linen blends. I also like the textured linen look with slubs and streaks.
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