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Classic Menswear Lounge - Page 213

post #3181 of 3317
My jacket up there still needs a few tweaks, but I don't plan on the lapels being one of them. I like the slight belly.
post #3182 of 3317

Bellies go with the #dadbod

post #3183 of 3317
Not sure if Arrigo's DB has belly, or simply looks like it does due to simply following contours. I'll have to check later.
post #3184 of 3317

I don't mind a little belly but I think a lot of belly should be reserved for coats (if you like that look)

post #3185 of 3317
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post



I wouldn't say it's a regional thing.
 

I should have spoken of tendencies: bellied lapels are more common as you go north for tailoring and less so as you go south (in Europe). Just arm chair conjecture from little data.

post #3186 of 3317
To Sander's question: I've thought the same thing, but generally catch myself because how many things that you thought looked awesome 10 years ago look crazy bad to you today? I have no doubt some of my preferences right now will likewise be just as questionable 10 years from now.
post #3187 of 3317
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

It's been a while, so I hope that I'm getting this right for @patrickBOOTH's sake:

Will I In

(That doesn't feel right, though...)

post #3188 of 3317
Now I'm confused...
post #3189 of 3317
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

Effectively, are we talking about, with qualifications, English and some French tailoring versus Italian? [...]

 

 

In terms of the historical origins of certain of these distinctions, there’s certainly some truth to this.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post
[...]
You're right that a heavier belly gives you a "roundish shape," [...]
[...

 

Which brings up the interesting question of which physiques such lapels flatter and which they do not.  Your thoughts?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

[...]
That's Steed, but you can specify any kind of lapel you want. [...]

 

 

Exactly.  We live in a time of international style where people no longer feel bound by the historical origins of individual stylistic details.  These days customers and designers choose from a “Chinese menu” of available options, which is why one encounters such chimerical oddities as double-breasted three-piece suits with hacking pockets.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #3190 of 3317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

 

That thread will die only if people stop posting to it, which would be an overreaction to the occasional deplorable behavior of a couple of disturbed individuals.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac


Complete misunderstanding of why that thread has lost steam, and why this one might be taking its place. Kudos to @TweedyProf for letting it evolve, btw.

 

Calm down, kid.

 

It was a perfectly accurate description:  threads go dormant when people don’t post to them.  Self-evident. 

 

And your claim that this thread replaces GNAT is just factually incorrect.  GNAT was explicitly initiated to encourage newcomers to post, and to do so in a thread where they could count on getting responses from some of SF’s most knowledgeable members.  If you read the thread, you’ll learn this.  The ‘Lounge’ , on the other hand, was originally the ‘Grad Lounge’, and its intended audience was those whose interests were relatively advanced.   Very different constituencies and very different threads.  Both important and both useful.

 

And as for Tweedy, no one’s been more supportive than I have of his efforts, including his work on and in this thread.  If you’d read it, you’ll see.

 

Good grief.    Graduate students these days …

post #3191 of 3317
I'm sure grad students have always been horrible. Always will be horrible.
post #3192 of 3317
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

I should have spoken of tendencies: bellied lapels are more common as you go north for tailoring and less so as you go south (in Europe). Just arm chair conjecture from little data.

I don't know if I would even say it's a tendency. If you flip through Rubiancci's vanity book, you'll find bellied lapels, straight lapels, and even concave-looking lapels. Similarly, you can find the same variation in old SR photos. Even more variation if you include non-SR tailors in London, esp those who cater more fashion-forward clients, such as Thom Sweeney.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post

Which brings up the interesting question of which physiques such lapels flatter and which they do not.  Your thoughts?

I don't really buy those kinds of arguments, so I don't have much to say about that.
post #3193 of 3317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I'm sure grad students have always been horrible. Always will be horrible.

 Ho ho,  :)

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #3194 of 3317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

 

Calm down, kid.

 

It was a perfectly accurate description:  threads go dormant when people don’t post to them.  Self-evident. 

 

And your claim that this thread replaces GNAT is just factually incorrect.  GNAT was explicitly initiated to encourage newcomers to post, and to do so in a thread where they could count on getting responses from some of SF’s most knowledgeable members.  If you read the thread, you’ll learn this.  The ‘Lounge’ , on the other hand, was originally the ‘Grad Lounge’, and its intended audience was those whose interests were relatively advanced.   Very different constituencies and very different threads.  Both important and both useful.

 

And as for Tweedy, no one’s been more supportive than I have of his efforts, including his work on and in this thread.  If you’d read it, you’ll see.

 

Good grief.    Graduate students these days …

post #3195 of 3317
Looks like that self-regulation could use a bit more work...
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