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post #3166 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

I think we need more pics for the lapel conversation. Good, bad, etc.

Bellied Lapels









post #3167 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louys View Post

Another SD native here. I would say that seasonal colors are still seasonal in places like SD and Dubai, it's just that it's always the same season. A full on autumnal palette of forrest greens, dark browns, and rust oranges looks entirely out of place between the faded asphalt and bright blue sky. A piece here or there works well, but you can't turn it up to eleven like you can in Places that actual have an autumn.

In the case of Dubai it's not just about the seasons, or lack thereof. It's about the culture. You might think that because it's always hot in Dubai that they would always wear summer colors. Not the case. It's dark suits all year round. Blacks often doesn't look the greatest in the glaring sun but it's a very common suit colorin Dubai. Perhaps even more common than navy.
post #3168 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

You might think that because it's always hot in Dubai that they would always wear summer colors. Not the case.

Southern Area Man Surprised to Not Find Arabs in Seersucker and Madras Whilst Abroad
post #3169 of 3297
What I meant by seasonal colors was more the colors look good in a given season, as opposed to the colors people actually wear in that season. As you observe black is not summer color, even if everyone in Dubai wears it during their perpetual summer.
post #3170 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louys View Post

What I meant by seasonal colors was more the colors look good in a given season, as opposed to the colors people actually wear in that season. As you observe black is not summer color, even if everyone in Dubai wears it during their perpetual summer.


You might have to clarify what you are getting at. People in Dubai see nothing wrong with wearing black in their environment and embrace it very much. They think it looks good. It has to do with a lot of things, including their interpretation of British business wear (which is often very different from what British people actually wear). That was my point. 


Edited by Caustic Man - 8/18/16 at 6:34pm
post #3171 of 3297
For those (like me) who needed clarification on what a bellied lapel is:
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post


Notice the edge of the pinstripe on the lapel. This lapel has "belly".




Notice the same thing here. This lapel does not have belly:



post #3172 of 3297
Thread Starter 

@Claghorn

 

Actually, I think the latter might have a slight belly. It curves ever so slightly but that might be an optical illusion from the too many lines.

 

What the two better illustrate is that even though the latter might have a belly, the pinstripe runs equidistant to the edge of the lapel (contrast the first one). If you go up to the Diduch picture, you can see how Jeffery created a bellied lapel where the pinstripe is equidistant with the edge with the belly created by iron work. Maybe @jefferyd  or @Despos  can help us.

post #3173 of 3297
Thread Starter 

Cifonelli RTW. Notice the concave curve and the line of the plaid versus edge of lapel, similar to the first jacket above in pBooth's post.

 

post #3174 of 3297
No belly



Belly



Little belly



Lotta belly



What feels like a bit of concavity (although I suspect this is just a straight lapel with a certain roll)



IME, belly is partly about the cut of the lapel and how the lapel rolls. A somewhat straight lapel can look even straighter if you press the break a certain way (break being where the lapel starts to roll over).
post #3175 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sander View Post

On another note, can someone explain the appeal of bellied lapels to me?

Bellied lapels give the appearance of... well, a belly. They guide your view down and out instead of up, also often look dated. What's the deal?

Can you post some examples of lapels with belly that aren't ideal?
post #3176 of 3297
These are so slightly bellied that my argument doesn't really apply to them:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




This I would have preferred straight, but still doesn't look bad imo:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


And these are firmly in the "give you a roundish shape and look dated" category:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



post #3177 of 3297
Thread Starter 

Effectively, are we talking about, with qualifications, English and some French tailoring versus Italian?

 

If so, and this thought is influenced by some discussions with @Mr. Six , obviously if the presence of a belly, even slight, doesn't appeal to you, then sure, don't go for it.

 

But it might add some variation in one's wardrobe. If I had a choice, again with qualifications, I'd tend to Italian for warmer times and British for the cool months for tweed.

 

I like this configuration very much though I'd be hard pressed to know if the lapel is straight or bellied here. I'd say straight actually, but isn't this Steed?

 

post #3178 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Normally I'd pose a completely irrelevant question in the GNAT, but since that thread seems to be dying off  [...]

 

That thread will die only if people stop posting to it, which would be an overreaction to the occasional deplorable behavior of a couple of disturbed individuals.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #3179 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

 

That thread will die only if people stop posting to it, which would be an overreaction to the occasional deplorable behavior of a couple of disturbed individuals.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac


Complete misunderstanding of why that thread has lost steam, and why this one might be taking its place. Kudos to @TweedyProf for letting it evolve, btw.

post #3180 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sander View Post

And these are firmly in the "give you a roundish shape and look dated" category:[/SPOILER]

Few people make bellies like that anymore. Most bellies are in the first group of photos -- slight, but there. Except for modern DBs, which are often cut with heavier/ more obvious bellies.

The second photo you quoted is Hardy Amies in a Tommy Nutter suit, which is an outlier. The first is probably old A&S (new A&S doesn't look like that). Those look dated because they are.

There are some guys wear heavier bellies today. See any photo of Luciano Barbera. IMO, the cut suits his style. It's a much more elegant, comfortable looking design for him than a razor sharp, modern straight lapel.






You're right that a heavier belly gives you a "roundish shape," but so do a lot of (much fawned over) design elements -- softer shoulders, fuller chest, shorter jackets, etc. Liverano is a very round silhouette.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Effectively, are we talking about, with qualifications, English and some French tailoring versus Italian?

I wouldn't say it's a regional thing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

I like this configuration very much though I'd be hard pressed to know if the lapel is straight or bellied here. I'd say straight actually, but isn't this Steed?

That's Steed, but you can specify any kind of lapel you want. If left to their own devices, they'll give you a very slight belly, although things are drafted freehand, so there's a bit of variation here and there. I don't know what Tony ordered for that specific jacket, but I get both bellied and straight lapels on my commissions, depending on the cloth.

FWIW, bellied lapels can be turned into straight ones if a customer doesn't like them.
Edited by dieworkwear - 8/19/16 at 8:41am
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