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Classic Menswear Lounge - Page 196

post #2926 of 3313
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

  DB I bought it when I was an undergraduate in Cambridge, at the actual Filene's Basement. If I could travel back in time, I'd have my past self size down one, but for a clueless freshman, I didn't do so bad, I think. Here are some other pics. It's 80s Givenchy, which was not a good time for the French men's fashion houses, but the cloth is really nice:




Comments on the aesthetic will be of interest.

To me it looks like a cross between a classic raglan and polo coat, and perhaps also related to trenchcoats. I recall the raglan sleeve was designed to be more water resistant.

There is a picture of another similar variant in a trenchcoat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LabelKing View Post


Comme des Garcons self-destructive trenchcoat in an English tweed.


I think the drape, accentuated by the belt, is how traditional polo coats are supposed to look.

Here is a bespoke polo coat by Despos.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Britalian View Post


Quote:


Originally Posted by Soph

The Despos OVERCOAT:






I think you have a great find and I would wear it just as it is. It looks roomy but also good when compared with other leaner versions above.

Too bad I never went to Filene's. I had friends who waxed poetic about Filene's but I was not interested in clothing those days. I have 4m of a barleycorn donegal that I plan to make up one day with a raglan collar and sleeves. This gives me ideas on what other details to consider.

I was back in Cambridge last year and it has gentrified quite a bit. Central Square and Inman square have really cleaned up.
post #2927 of 3313

Isn't that gorgeous Despos piece technically a wait coat, the ancestor of the polo coat that was actually used for polo?

post #2928 of 3313

- moved to tie thread -

post #2929 of 3313

To me, all these overcoats look a bit too much like dressing gowns.

 

The Despos has a bit more shape to it, but I'm still not a big fan.

post #2930 of 3313
I kinda love oversized coats.
post #2931 of 3313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post



I regret this purchase.

The strong green diagonal is what drags down this tie. If that same element were curved, I think it would work much better.
post #2932 of 3313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

To me, all these overcoats look a bit too much like dressing gowns.

Me too. Long, hanging belts make a coat resemble a bathrobe more than anything else. Pet peeve of mine.
post #2933 of 3313
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post


Too bad I never went to Filene's. I had friends who waxed poetic about Filene's but I was not interested in clothing those days. I have 4m of a barleycorn donegal that I plan to make up one day with a raglan collar and sleeves. This gives me ideas on what other details to consider.

I was back in Cambridge last year and it has gentrified quite a bit. Central Square and Inman square have really cleaned up.

 

Did you post a pic of that barleycorn donegal in the Unfunded thread? Sounds lovely. Details?

 

I was last in Cambridge 7 years ago to give a talk at the "other" university in town. Went through Central Square on the Mass Ave bus and was shocked (though it still had rough edges surrounding the GAP). Venturing there back in the 80s on weekend evenings was sometimes an adventure. 

 

I don't remember Filene's so well. I went in to get my first winter coat, saw a rack of overcoats, put the Givenchy on, liked the look, and that was that. I understand the bathrobe vibe though.

post #2934 of 3313
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post


Seeing it by itself, that shade of green seems far more appropriate for a Spring outfit than a tweed which I think of as being F/W. That puts it in a seasonal No Mans Land. Unless, of course, you can show a shirt and jacket combo that is enhanced by that shade of green. It might exist but I would think that it would be hard to find. My guess is that a deeper or more mossy shade of green would be more versatile and look more seasonally correct with most tweeds or corduroy for F/W.


@GusW Thanks, I think you raise good points, Gus. Not sure what the color is like IRL, since so much depends on the lighting when pic is shot:

 

 

The first (left) photo is from Steve at Gentleman's Footwear and his shot depicts it as more muted: the two depict the tie to be about the same brightness, but the left depicts it as slightly less saturated (sound right to you?). It also looks a bit more olive on the left.

 

 

The left feels more autumnal to me.

post #2935 of 3313
I think it's the blue/grey from LL.
post #2936 of 3313
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLJr View Post

I think it's the blue/grey from LL.


A blue/grey LL donegal barleycorn? Sounds tasty. Anyone posted pics of it?

post #2937 of 3313
post #2938 of 3313
Thread Starter 
Nice, thanks.
post #2939 of 3313
The original brown run is fantastic. I have a jacket from a rerun Frank from Ercoles had Molloy do. Poorsod has a jacket in the original from LL also from Frank. Same cloth, though poorsod likes to point out my barleycorn points the wrong way. Point of the story, if there's enough interest, Molloy would likely rerun either version.
post #2940 of 3313
Thread Starter 
Is there a norm about barley corn orientation?I think pics are needed.
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