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Classic Menswear Lounge - Page 195

post #2911 of 3297
Thread Starter 

@Pliny 

 

I like that actually, understand what you were aiming at, color wise. I think there's a gut reaction against paisley because they can often come off as garish. 

 

@Coxsackie 

 

Thanks for those. I think some work quite well, some are striking. 

 

@Veremund 

 

I've been looking for something like that too. @YRR92 says that it is too city. The color scheme isn't a typical, earthy paisley (I have an interesting one I will post later). Still, a blue toned paisley would be quite nice.

 

@UrbanComposition 

 

I agree. Perhaps we're hovering around the same set: (a) muted/desaturated ; (b) hue: similar tones so low hue contrast; (c) not too bright

 

Thoughts on the green Cappelli madder?

post #2912 of 3297
Thread Starter 

As OP of the thread, perhaps I can solicit advice and opinions.

 

I own an oversized raglan coat (see my sig). Part of me has felt that it is the style of the coat that it's a bit roomier, but I also have most of my items cut in a more fitted way. Since @gdl203  had similar thoughts, the question is the "allowance" appropriate for such a jacket.

 


From Cutter and Tailor.

 

There's a story of my jacket below that you can read in the link, but have wondered whether it will work for me. The strong herringbone is great but it drapes like the above. Cinching increases the drape/folds at the chest.

 

Here's Dirnelli' in Arnys

 

 

Thoughts on the aesthetic and fit principles here?

post #2913 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Thoughts on the green Cappelli madder?

Seeing it by itself, that shade of green seems far more appropriate for a Spring outfit than a tweed which I think of as being F/W. That puts it in a seasonal No Mans Land. Unless, of course, you can show a shirt and jacket combo that is enhanced by that shade of green. It might exist but I would think that it would be hard to find. My guess is that a deeper or more mossy shade of green would be more versatile and look more seasonally correct with most tweeds or corduroy for F/W.
post #2914 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Here's Dirnelli' in Arnys
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Thoughts on the aesthetic and fit principles here?

I've never found this shoulder style combined with the fuller cut to be very flattering. Unless you have very broad shoulders and a trim waist it is easy to look pear shaped. Dirnelli's coat also has the 90's-early 2000's Arnys style generously full cut sleeves which, to me gives it a dated look.

Overall, I think there are much better options for men who are in decent shape. If you don't need a lot of extra room why add it?
post #2915 of 3297
Thread Starter 
Mostly because it's freezing outside and the jacket fabric must be 20oz weight.

Roomy, certainly. But is it outside how one would want such a coat to fit?

I'm pulled in two directions. One the one hand, there's something classic feeling about this (cf. the picture above). On the other hand, it is in the other direction of my more fitted sport coats that do little to replicate the drape.
Edited by TweedyProf - 2/12/16 at 10:19am
post #2916 of 3297


I regret this purchase.
post #2917 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post



I regret this purchase.


i want your jacket
post #2918 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Mostly because it's freezing outside and the jacket fabric must be 20oz Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
weight.


Roomy, certainly. But is it outside how one would want such a coat to fit?

I'm pulled in two directions. One the one hand, there's something classic feeling about this (cf. the picture above). On the other hand, it is in the other direction of my more fitted sport coats that do little to replicate the drape.

 

Get the sleeves slimmed and the waist taken in a bit? It's a great looking fabric and cool looking coat that could possibly be updated a bit without losing the overall aesthetic.

post #2919 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Mostly because it's freezing outside and the jacket fabric must be 20oz weight.

Roomy, certainly. But is it outside how one would want such a coat to fit?

I'm pulled in two directions. One the one hand, there's something classic feeling about this (cf. the picture above). On the other hand, it is in the other direction of my more fitted sport coats that do little to replicate the drape.

It looks cool, dude.

the last like two winters I didn't own a winter coat worthy of wearing on top of my SCs, so I borrowed my brother's DB belted wool Barbour frequently, and it looked about like this. i thought it had a certain casual insouciance that I liked.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #2920 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post



I regret this purchase.

I like that tie very much and would wear it with a solid navy jacket and tobacco colored suede captoes. (it might look nice with a Donegal). Windowpane calls for a more subtle formal tie pattern IMO. Also windowpane is a geometric pattern and I don't care for pairing a grid design with a free-flowing swirling paisley madder when better options exist.
post #2921 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

@YRR92 

 

Thanks. There isn't a huge difference between the tie I posted and the Drake's, though the teal certainly makes the latter more casual.

 

The one in the video seems similar to the first one SB posted, which I think is tolerable, but, if one limited oneself to 20 ties per season (which I do), then not sure any of them would make the cut.

 

That said, I find myself oddly tempted to this one for some reason, Cappelli madder:

 

http://www.patriziocappelli.it/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_61&products_id=2467

 

 

With brown jackets.

The teal is enough for me. And scale-wise, the Drakes is a bit smaller, which is what I was talking about as much as color.

 

Weirdly, I found this today, and threw it on with what I was wearing. Obviously, a big part of why this is working is the layer, and the squarelessness (if in fact it works at all). But I have a hard time with a big paisley, two-button jacket, and pocket square, which is your original question.

 

 

 

I quite like that green one – monochrome in a country color works better than I would have expected. Reminds me of the green hopsack @Cleav just posted. I think it would work without a layer, you know?

 

As far as your overcoat is concerned, I like it. I have a similarly baggy one, which I am fond of in the real cold, IE cold enough that I don't entirely care how I look.

 

What's important is that yours looks intentional as it is. I have a coworker who wears a long, baggy-ish PRL tweed duffle with tailored stuff – also very cool.

 

@Claghorn

 

That stripe element in there looks really '70s, which is an issue.

 

But I don't think the way you dress lends itself to big paisley ties in general.

 

 

post #2922 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post

Get the sleeves slimmed and the waist taken in a bit? It's a great looking fabric and cool looking coat that could possibly be updated a bit without losing the overall aesthetic.
my thoughts exactly.
post #2923 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post



.

Do you have more detailed pics? This this a SB or DB coat?
post #2924 of 3297
Thread Starter 

@Mr. Six  @ThinkDerm Perhaps that's what I'll do.

 

@poorsod  DB I bought it when I was an undergraduate in Cambridge, at the actual Filene's Basement. If I could travel back in time, I'd have my past self size down one, but for a clueless freshman, I didn't do so bad, I think. Here are some other pics. It's 80s Givenchy, which was not a good time for the French men's fashion houses, but the cloth is really nice:

 


Comments on the aesthetic will be of interest.

post #2925 of 3297
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Mostly because it's freezing outside and the jacket fabric must be 20oz weight.

Roomy, certainly. But is it outside how one would want such a coat to fit?

I'm pulled in two directions. One the one hand, there's something classic feeling about this (cf. the picture above). On the other hand, it is in the other direction of my more fitted sport coats that do little to replicate the drape.

 

Yes, there is (something classic).

 

I think it looks fine (perhaps the sleeves are the tiniest bit long, but if you were wearing gloves, and you probably will be with that coat, it wouldn’t matter).   Raglan sleeve overcoats to me look most characteristic when they’re roomy and casually tightened at the waist with the belt as needed, just as here. 

 

Be warned, however.  While I like my suit jackets and odd jackets to be reasonably fitted, I confess that when it comes to overcoats it’s all about convenience for me.   A suit or odd jacket I’ll be wearing all day; the overcoat, on the other hand, frequently needs to come on and off over the course of the day, a real pain, and I therefore like a bit more room to facilitate that.  I accept that this might make me a bad person.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

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