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Classic Menswear Lounge - Page 190

post #2836 of 3318
Hi guys,

I've posted a thread where there will be lots of pictures from the upcoming Pitti Uomo 89. Please feel free to subscribe to it. There are a few pictures in there already, so... feel free to participate in the heated discussion that will inevitably arise on the pros and cons of this biannual peacock bonanza.
post #2837 of 3318
Thread Starter 

"Versatility" define...

 

Just kidding. But as I was recently on the Eidos thread to leave a few pictures and to look at a quote of me from @mossrockss , versatility came up with respect to cloth for SCs.

 

Two notions of versatility came up for me wrt these two jackets

 


Mossrocks mentioned that he thought the second was more versatile. I agree and disagree

 

Versatility with pairings: the gun club here in principle allows for more possibilities for pairings given that there are more colors involved (though a mid brown is very versatile, and while the houndstooth is a touch lighter, I think it will pair with many things).

 

Versatility with contexts: I actually think that for many the NMWA will be harder to wear. It requires a certain flair given that it is a stronger pattern. In academic contexts, for example, the houndstooth will not raise much additional thought.

 

In general, I'm gravitating back to more "solids" though this allows from patterns with lower contrast between the colors. For example, here's a shepherd's check of mine where the brown/cream is more contrasty than the brown/cream houndstooth above. I think I prefer the above more now (I do not own it, alas...two similar to have both in my wardrobe).

 

 

Oh, and apparently, like many of you, I'm an "onsite legend".

post #2838 of 3318
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

"Versatility" define...

Just kidding. But as I was recently on the Eidos thread to leave a few pictures and to look at a quote of me from @mossrockss
 , versatility came up with respect to cloth for SCs.

Two notions of versatility came up for me wrt these two jackets
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





Mossrocks mentioned that he thought the second was more versatile. I agree and disagree

Versatility with pairings: the gun club here in principle allows for more possibilities for pairings given that there are more colors involved (though a mid brown is very versatile, and while the houndstooth is a touch lighter, I think it will pair with many things).

Versatility with contexts: I actually think that for many the NMWA will be harder to wear. It requires a certain flair given that it is a stronger pattern. In academic contexts, for example, the houndstooth will not raise much additional thought.

In general, I'm gravitating back to more "solids" though this allows from patterns with lower contrast between the colors. For example, here's a shepherd's check of mine where the brown/cream is more contrasty than the brown/cream houndstooth above. I think I prefer the above more now (I do not own it, alas...two similar to have both in my wardrobe).

Oh, and apparently, like many of you, I'm an "onsite legend".

My comment on versatility was completely in the context of what I own and wear and the lifestyle I live.

That is, I wear the pants below 3 times a week at least. I could be wrong (maybe next time I'm over at Haymakers and can look at the houndstooth fabric again I can compare it to these chinos), but I feel like that jacket wouldn't work with those chinos or the other, slightly darker pair I wear often. The brown gun club will 100% work with: dark jeans, light jeans, white jeans, light/off-white chinos, medium khaki chinos, darker khaki chinos, light gray trousers, mid-gray trousers.

I'm not completely sure if the houndstooth's color value (is there a term for what overall color a patterned jacket looks like at a distance when details resolve into a solid?) would work with all of those as easily (again I could be wrong, which is why I said I felt a certain way but everyone who I've seen wearing it looks tops in it).

And regarding the pattern versatility you mentioned, again it's 100% my lifestyle that dictates how I perceive that type of thing. I can literally wear almost anything I want with the job I have (even moreso now that I work from home most of the time—pajamas!!). This gun club is probably the last jacket for the fall/winter season I'll buy that I will have a requirement for maximum versatility.


Mossrockss favorite pair of workhorse chinos in a photo thats obviously cropping out another person (Click to show)
post #2839 of 3318
I have subscribed.
post #2840 of 3318
This ad just appeared in the upper right hand corner of the front page of STyleforum.net. I'm sure it will be popular with the crowd here in the Classic Menswear Lounge. smile.gif


post #2841 of 3318
Kent Wang and I are making an interactive tutorial on the coordination of squares with ties (this has required me to take 144 different pictures, 12 ties and 12 squares). Anyway, out of necessity, we used a single jacket. I've always felt that the jacket and the shirt are the least difficult elements to get correct when integrating a pocket square (usually the last bridge people cross, both day to day and in terms of branching out in what they where). Regardless, I know it is important.

Anyway, I posted a few example pictures (same tie, shirt, jacket...three different squares). One of the squares didn't go as well as the other two (and it wasn't supposed to), and someone asked for some examples of where it did work. I provided them (from the tutorial pictures), but I realized that one of the combinations looked much better in the context of a warm tweed than a cool flannel. However, this isn't always the case; I found another example (different square and tie) where the context made no difference to how well the tie and square worked with each other. Again, I'm speaking to the degree to which the tie and square coordinate (with the context operating as a moderator of sorts) and not how well those two elements work with other elements. Curious as to what factors are at play here
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Too further demonstrate the importance of the jacket (unfortunately well beyond the scope of the tutorial).





looks much better to me than





Still, I think it is clear in the tutorial picture that the tie and square work together.


Though, a counter-example where I think the context (shirt and jacket) are irrelevant to how well the tie and square go together:






Edited by Claghorn - 1/12/16 at 6:23am
post #2842 of 3318

Figured this would be the place to ask: anyone know what happened to @Pingson's blog?  Did it move or did he shut it down?

post #2843 of 3318
Thread Starter 

Laid up with a bad lower back (hurt while shoveling snow!!!), so catching up on SF threads. Guess I'll have to stop by occasionally to keep this thread going. It shouldn't die.

 

Read a bit of the kerfuffle in the WAYWRN thread about matching PS and ties. I don't see any problems with having a PS color routinely picking up a similar or same color in the tie or jacket (cf. my pics above where the base color matched the tie). The question is how much to match to maintain excellence. Think of a woman with blue/green eyes wearing a blue/green top. Accents, and quite striking. Anyway, perhaps something to revisit since @Claghorn, @EliodA, and @Coxsackie among others weighed in.

 

But for now, I'll leave you with two very nice navy blazer looks from @cezinho  and @Murlsquirl  posted on IG today (Murlsquirl's is an older one). These are all solid.

 

Why shouldn't the Lounge also document exemplars for SF? Members are invited to add pics, with comments.

 

 

If you're going to use a red square, hard to do better than this:

 

La vera jacket and the Cappelli tie are lovely. Simple and elegant two pattern combination

 

post #2844 of 3318
Quote:


This is a terrible combination. The coat is relxed (after hours). Tie is comical (take your eight year old boy out to a birthday party). The shirt is a business shirt. None of it goes together.
post #2845 of 3318
Quote:
Originally Posted by greger View Post

This is a terrible combination. The coat is relxed (after hours). Tie is comical (take your eight year old boy out to a birthday party). The shirt is a business shirt. None of it goes together.

Oh snap.

I'm not certain what your problem is with the tie.

And the shirt being a business shirt—do you say that because it's solid blue and has a spread collar?
post #2846 of 3318
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by greger View Post

This is a terrible combination. The coat is relxed (after hours). Tie is comical (take your eight year old boy out to a birthday party). The shirt is a business shirt. None of it goes together.

That's one way to wake up a thread.
post #2847 of 3318
From the fifties. So many of you guys are green. And nobody to teach you the rules. Therefore, new rules to be made up. Not to mention the old rules were ever changing, anyway. The new rules are a drastic change from the pre-hippie era. I didn't care for the old rules that much, anyway. And tried to get out of most of them. But, they did add structure. Poorer people were less involved, because they didn't have funds to buy. The wealthy, of course, had the most. The boys selection of clothes in the stores had more suits, blazers and sports coats than other kinds of clothes. Not that you have noticed the world does change. For me sports coats are casual wear, after work clothes. Are suits going the way of the dinosaur?
post #2848 of 3318
Quote:
Originally Posted by greger View Post

From the fifties. So many of you guys are green. And nobody to teach you the rules. Therefore, new rules to be made up. Not to mention the old rules were ever changing, anyway. The new rules are a drastic change from the pre-hippie era. I didn't care for the old rules that much, anyway. And tried to get out of most of them. But, they did add structure. Poorer people were less involved, because they didn't have funds to buy. The wealthy, of course, had the most. The boys selection of clothes in the stores had more suits, blazers and sports coats than other kinds of clothes. Not that you have noticed the world does change. For me sports coats are casual wear, after work clothes. Are suits going the way of the dinosaur?

WTF is this gibberish? Was this supposed to be a response to mossrocks' questions?
post #2849 of 3318
-AMD,
That tie is way to wild for a respectable business tie.
The shirt has the right plainness for business.
Even a shoe salesman wouldn't wear a sports coat at work.
Some school teachers (men) could get away with wearing a sports coat.
Yeah, the rules were starting to get rather lax by then.
After all, they had been the example to boys for proper wear.
Girls wore skirts and dresses. In high school they could wear jeans.
post #2850 of 3318

Okay, but it's not the '50s any more.

 

Sure, that wouldn't have flown in the '50s, 60-odd years ago. And what flew in the '50s wouldn't have flown in the 1890s, and so on and so forth until we're arguing about cochineal dyes for our togas.

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